How To Make An Adjustable Height Table – I really want a pro desk, but it costs $1000. So I made my own for about $200 (top not included). It’s just a regular desk that can be raised and turned into a standing desk at the push of a button. It takes about a minute to ramp up, faster linear actuators are more expensive.
I want to understand how everything fits together before I start cutting. So I designed a 3D model in Autodesk Maya. I know Maya is mostly used for animation, but this is what I know and it works. Now I’m going to remove the IKEA table and replace the fixed legs with dynamic bars.
How To Make An Adjustable Height Table
I found a pair of linear actuators on eBay for only $150 shipped. I know nothing about electricity so they come with a great power cord. They have a 16-inch stroke and weigh 220 pounds each, but I wouldn’t put more than two monitors on this desk.
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I went to Home Depot to find wood and spent about $50 on top grade pine wood. All the pine trees are withered and I think the telescope column should have a straight edge.
I attached a linear actuator to a small wooden stand, then built an internal column around it. Then the outer band around the inner.
The first stand that was built was tested to see if it could lift the table. It worked, so I made another one.
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It is quite simple. If you plan to use IKEA tables, remember that most of them are made of cardboard, so screwing the legs to them is not the strongest handle.
I drill a large hole in the top of the table to mount the switch.
I think if I spend another $200 on the linear actuator it will be a bit faster and stronger. Also I have 18 or 20″ stroke but 16 is the most economical.
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The legs are definitely version 1.0, I know they shouldn’t be this big, they are really easy to make.
Finally I add something to the height of the app. So I can press the button once instead of holding it. I have a Raspberry Pi lying around somewhere. My name is Sam and I am the forum administrator here. More information about the tailor »
The table is adjusted according to the project according to the most comfortable height for work: for sitting and sewing, standing while modeling, soldering, tinkering, etc.
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Update: After the original post of this project, I noticed that others have made similar charts with great results. Check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKUVgv_iLtM for example, it has a great internal locking mechanism. Very clever!
The main design challenge with this table is to create a single-point, central lift mechanism with four telescoping terminal legs that provides smooth lift guidance without binding or binding. I’m happy with how everything came together.
It is lifted on the table using a jack handle or an electric drill with a hand hammer.
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Jacks are used to raise or lower the upper part to the desired height. Then the support blocks are placed on each leg and lowered to the upper support. Without these blocks, the jack only supports the table top at the vertical center, so blocks are needed to eliminate vibration or sharpening.
Other heights are available with different support blocks and the table can be raised by adding a block on the jack itself. But for me, these three main heights are perfect for my needs.
The details are covered in the steps below, which should be helpful if you’re interested in creating something similar.
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I have some plywood from a previous project that I want to use.
But for these to be useful, you must first glue them all together on a large board. Of course, this is not necessary, I recommend using new materials if possible!
I have an old laminate table and four casters that I ended up using. The table top is 30 x 48 inches.
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I bought 60″ x 60″ 9mm or 3/8″ Baltic birch plywood (about $35) as well as a cheap scissor jack from Walmart ($15).
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First, the main structure of the foot is made. All these pieces were cut with my table cutter.
The inside and outside length of each leg is 23 inches, this accounts for the height of my wheels, so if you do this be sure to adjust the leg length to your specific needs.
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The outer arms of each leg are made from four pieces of plywood 3 1/2″ wide and 3/4″ thick.
The inner legs are made in the same way, with four pieces of hair over 2 inches, so that the outer surface is less than 2 3/4 inches wide.
The first challenge of this project is to make the correct size movable room with telescopic legs. I want them to slide into each other easily, but without too much jolting or sliding.
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About 1/32″ of overall clearance at the top and sides of the leg gives what I feel is good play.
The main structure of the table consists of two tension boxes or beams between two jacks.
Stress boxes are strong and light and are easily made from plywood. Plywood offers precision and stability over time, while solid wood is prone to expansion and contraction with changes in environmental humidity, etc.
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The lower beam attaches securely to the outside of the leg, while the upper beam easily attaches to the inside of the leg. They actually attach to the paracord and basically hang and “slide” into position. However, this will be covered in detail later.
5 1/2″ wide by 3/4″ plywood 4 3/4″ wide by 3/8″ plywood and glue and nail together.
Additional measurements and dimensions will depend on your specific needs, but I’ll provide plenty of tips and details that should be helpful along the way.
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At this point, the outer posts were cut into 5 1/2″ sections using a crosscut sled on a table saw. These parts were then connected to the upper beam and screwed into it.
The casters are now attached to the outer supports and the bottom beam is checked properly to determine the height required to attach to these outer supports.
This height position depends on several other factors such as the height of the top of the machine jack as well as the minimum required height of the table and the thickness of the table.
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To attach the posts to the bottom beam, I added plywood bosses (< description) to each post.
These are precisely glued and screwed to each post with the help of a small wooden scraper.
With the help of the boss added at the last stage, it is easy to attach the base to the bottom beam in the perfect position.
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Glue, nail and screw the legs as shown in the picture. It is a surprisingly light but tough structure. I am very happy about it!
The structure of the upper beam is necessary for the transparent fixation of the lower structure so that the base does not stick in any way when raising and lowering it.
To do this, the upper structure cannot be created separately – it is necessary to create the existing lower structure using it as a guide to ensure that they match exactly.
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The first step is to lock the top of the outer leg as carefully as possible.
Everything was placed upside down on my workbench and the pieces of birch plywood were attached as shown, first with glue, brad nails and then with screws in the countersunk holes.
The table structure is turned to the right and the beam part is created by placing it piece by piece.
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Each piece is carefully measured, cut and assembled with glue, clamps, branded nails and screws. The original piece was attached to form the top of the beam, removed from the structure, and additional pieces of birch plywood were added to complete it.
The inner leg pieces have an added piece of paracord so they can be attached to the upper structure.
The upper beam structure is drilled and sunk at the top of the cavity directly above the top of the internal piers. The inner legs are built in such a way that allows free movement of the upper part of the outer leg.
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After all the planning
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