How To Move A Plug Socket Down A Wall

How To Move A Plug Socket Down A Wall – Relocating a socket to another location and at the same time minimizing plaster damage can be a challenge.

Many home improvement projects require moving a light switch or outlet from its current location to a different location, or sometimes to a completely different wall. This is a fairly straightforward job until the new wire reaches the first wall stud. Minimizing plaster damage will be the main challenge of this project.

How To Move A Plug Socket Down A Wall

In this article, I will cover the steps on how to replace a socket or light switch. I have divided the process into the following parts:

How To Clean Your Light Switches

When working with electricity, safety should always be the most important thing. Never work on a live circuit and always turn off the power at the circuit breaker.

Before starting this type of project, check your local building codes to determine if the project requires a licensed contractor and permit.

Sometimes the electrical service panel does not have the correct circuit breaker identification. If so, plug a lamp into the socket or turn on the light switch. Turn off the power switch of the room in question. If the light does not turn off, try another circuit breaker.

Repeat this until the light turns off and mark the appropriate power switch for future reference. Switch off the power to the rest of the project.

Replacing A Gfci Outlet

The route of the new wire depends on the locations of the old and new electrical boxes and the gaps between them. Simple applications, for example, when boxes share the same pin space, require only a short wire without much planning.

The problem arises when the new box is installed on another wall, especially when drywall remains.

Proper wiring connections make the circuit safe and functional. The conductors of each wire set must be firmly connected. Typically, an electrician uses a threaded nut as a connection device; Other devices are sometimes available but rarely used.

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. The Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and is not a substitute for personal or professional advice on business, financial, legal or technical matters. Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may make a commission if you decide to make a purchase through one of my links.

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After tiling the new kitchen worktop, I needed to get the outlets flush with the wall again. How to stretch and tighten them. This also works if your socket is bent or loose!

In a perfect world, I wouldn’t guess as much as I do before starting a project. I most of the time

Underestimate the amount of time a project will take… I have every possible supply I need… I don’t.

In a perfect world, I would do all my homework before starting a project, not just that

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Two previous tiling projects make me an expert. I “thought” there were a few more tricks up my sleeve, like tiling the wall and cutting around the outlets. Sure, double-checking the little details will take more time than my projects take now (which would be sad), but I won’t have to get on the DIY roller coaster of thinking I screwed up my last project…and then realizing I made a mistake that can’t be fixed after the tile and grout are set. Or can it?

A few months ago, my uncle was in town to help me upgrade most of the outlets in the kitchen to GFCI. I knew I would have to stretch them a bit when the tile board went in. I even bought extenders (they are small plastic boxes – often blue or white – that help make the outlet box flush with the depth of the new wall). But obviously I was missing an important point: why the little metal “ears” on each end would twist and turn when in use. Instead of cutting small sections around each outlet and light switch so that the lugs (I call them “stickers”) can easily sit on top of the tile, I cut around them.

I tried installing the extender to fix the swinging outlet problem. Instead, I realized I didn’t need an extender

. The tile was thin enough that it would only change the depth of the wall by a small amount, and the extension would have small tabs on each end that would have to sit on the surface of the wall to keep the outlet level (or when you use the outlet), and sink back into the wall, which it certainly did.

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Way to go). So I took the extensions back to the store and replaced them with a pack of longer screws (which were just longer versions of the screws already used to mount each outlet).

But the screws weren’t enough. Since the ear sits in the air, it can still result in a moving outlet (outlet plates help stabilize the outlets a bit, but not enough in my case). That’s when Kerry, my nemesis (when it comes to DIY battles) and my super good friend, came to the rescue. She suggested the following:

They are called “caterpillars” or “caterpillar spacers”. “Hell yes!” I may have heard that. When I saw them at the store (in the electrical aisle, phew). They’re actually a little hard to miss – because they’re neon yellow. The idea makes sense…I’ve used wood planks before. Same idea, only these are like little plastic Legos.

Each tile has small knobs that allow you to connect and stack multiple units together. Stack them apart and glue them together (the instructions suggest folding one interlocking part over the other and glue them together, but I didn’t find mine cooperated when they were connected, so I broke them apart).

Outlet Power Strip

You have to experiment with how many you need for each outlet, mine is inconsistent. Some outlets require two, some require three. But you place them between the little metal tubes and the wall, put the screw to line up all the holes together, and tighten.

If your walls are like mine, you still have to work to get the wedge position right (to prevent the little plastic pieces from sliding all over the place under the outlet box), but it comes together in minutes.

I know I have some crap in this post, but I did it with a purpose. True, it is

A learning process. I never get things right. While that can be frustrating, it’s also what makes beer taste so good when I do

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Finish something and it feels amazing. While I beat myself up a lot when I realize I’ve made a new mistake, four years of dusting around the house has taught me that most mistakes can be overcome…as long as I’m willing to be creative and watch it. So the next time you’re tackling a project, take a deep breath and consider your options. Chances are, in the entire history of home fixing and building, someone out there has probably encountered the same problem you are facing…which means a solution may be a little closer than you think!

I give you! I’m Sarah. My favorite things to do: 1) take my house apart, 2) put it back together. I often talk about other things like life, food, and travel, but here you will find my passion for DIY and power tools!

Have a DIY question? Tag me on Instagram @uglyducklingDIY or use the hashtag # to showcase your projects! Hearst Newspapers participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may pay a commission for editorially selected products purchased through our links to reseller websites.

When installing electronics such as a wall-mounted flat screen TV, having a plug attached to the wall behind them allows you to hide the wires instead of hanging them from the wall. Whether you refer to it as a plug, socket, or outlet, if it’s not in a convenient location, you can always move it. The electrical code does not regulate the placement of interior wall plugs, so you can relocate an electrical plug in a finished wall to a more convenient location.

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Cecilia Harsh has been writing professionally since 2009. She mainly writes home improvement, health and travel articles for various online publications. She has many years of experience in the renovation industry in the context of group exercise training, with a focus on gardening. Harsh earned her Certified Nursing Assistant in 2004. She attended Tarrant County College and majored in English composition.

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