How To Make A Counter Stool – It's been a while since I did a pure 2×4 project. The last one I did was my toilet cabinet and it's my favorite project I've ever done. I think the idea of turning grade 2x4s into beautiful and worthwhile pieces of furniture for the home is very satisfying. It gives a good sense of achievement in my opinion.
The project I decided to do was a pair of 24″ high bar stools. The reason I went a little taller than bar stools are normally used is because our new house has a 36″ long bar behind it. the countertops. our kitchen. I have done a bar stool project before but it was too much. high for use in this area Therefore, a shorter bar stool is needed.
How To Make A Counter Stool
You will need about three 8′ 2x4s for each bar stool. I say roughly because you can get away with much less if you include the random knots commonly found in pine 2x4s. I chose to cut around them and because of that I had a lot of waste. Even with so much junk he only paid $21.51 for the materials to make it. Try and price a pair of solid wood bar stools this size in store! I bet they are nowhere near that price.
How To Make Bar Stools
With all the rough sizes marked from the knots I was able to cut them out. I have an older model Cobalt slide saw and I'm pretty sure I know why they no longer sell this particular saw. The sliding mechanism has an insane amount of flex and rarely holds its angle. For that reason I only use this saw for rough cuts.
The rough cut blanks can then be cut to width. The first quarter of an inch is cut from the width to get the rounded edges.
Then a million strips had to be cut for the seat gaps. They are 1 inch wide and 1-1/2 inches long. I cut it so the grain ran vertically on the 1-1/2″ dimension.
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Once they are all in the correct orientation and the top side is the good side they can be glued. I used a few pieces of scrap as a butting edge so that the clamping pressure wouldn't push the panel down.
Cut 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ blanks for the legs. Here you can see how well digging through the rubbish at your local town center can sometimes pay off when choosing wood. I probably looked at 30-40 boards on my last woodworking trip and only bought 10 of them. This board is the best of the lot.
After the leg gaps were ripped and cut to length I ran them on a thickness planer to make sure both short dimensions were the same. This makes cutting in the middle of a turn easier.
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If possible, I make all my final cuts to board length with a crosscut sled. It was more accurate than what my meter saw.
All frame pieces require a half turn on the edges. Legs are only needed at one end but all others must be cut at both ends. This is easy to do once a dado pile is placed and raised to half the thickness of the material.
The half-foot pieces get turned on adjacent surfaces in the middle of the material. To get the right spacing for the dado steel I used, I made what I call a kerf maker style block. This is explained better in the video than I can in the text of this article.
Western Iron Counter Stool With Back
With each mid-cut turn two long rails can be attached to both legs to form a leg assembly. To make sure the seat has a perfectly flat surface I had to cut the ends of my leg assembly and to do this I clamped both ends and then clamped them at the level of my four legs. This provides a nice flat surface for reference against the fence.
With the ends of the leg assembly ready for the seat I can proceed with gluing starting with the short rails.
Followed by the chair. I made sure to use scrap wood as re-purposes so as not to damage the top of the seat with the clamp heads.
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Once the glue was dry I used my crosscut sled to cut the face down to its final length. I also used the fence to cut the top down to its final width.
Most of the articles washed in a cheap bank plan. This leaves less time for sanding.
I used some bevels on my trim router to break up the rough edges. I also made the mistake of cutting part of the first bar stool in the normal direction of the route, which resulted in several pieces breaking. Solve climbing with others to cut the issue. As a result, only one of the stools is complete with torn edges.
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I use Minwax Early American Stain with great results. I decided to change it up a bit and used Carrington stain from Rustoleum which was too dark for my liking. I finished that off with a few coats of Target Coatings EM6000 Satin Lacquer spray water. It's a bit pricey but I love the results I get with it.
In the end I wasn't 100% happy with the color of the stain but that's no one's fault but mine. I would have taken the stain I was more familiar with because it did a better job of showing the grain. But it's not a deal breaker. I am happy with the end result and it works great in my home.
I would love to share this project with your friends to see and hopefully inspire or motivate someone to get out there and make their next piece of furniture instead of buying it. Thanks for reading and good people!
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Although this plan is free for you keep in mind that it is not free to create. If you would like to show your appreciation please consider using the donate button at the bottom of this page. If you liked this project and found it useful, please share it so others can do the same. Thanks for stopping by folks and have a great day!
Affiliate Disclosure – This website uses affiliate links. I may have a financial relationship with some of the businessmen I mentioned. From time to time, my blog posts and pages may contain affiliate links, which means I may be paid/received a commission at no additional cost to you when the affiliate links are used to make a purchase. I only include products, services and businesses that I believe will provide value to my readers and viewers. I only endorse products, services and merchants that I consider to be of the highest quality. For more information visit my Affiliate Disclosure page. Have you ever wanted to make a bar stool? Maybe for your home or shop. This is a super easy DIY bar stool that anyone can make. You can make a batch of 4 of these in a few hours. There are many options and variations for this bar stool so don't be afraid to make it your own. You don't need a shop full of tools either. In the video I use my table saw a lot but you can do it with a compound miter saw and a pocket hole jig. If you do not have a pocket port it is strongly recommended to get one. They are extremely useful for making quick work of DIY projects. If you feel like you'll use it a lot (you probably will) I recommend getting one like mine. They also do a cheaper clamp version (affiliate links).
Cut out all the materials you have for the layout diagram and the footer diagram. (download larger image at end)
Wrought Iron Bar Stools
This step is optional. In the video you see I bent the top of my top rail to 7°. This is so that the top surface of my top lines flush with the bottom of the seat. If you don't have a table saw or don't want to do this step, that's fine. You can line up the top, outer edge of the rail with the top of the legs during assembly.
If you want to add leg details to the outside of your legs now is the time. I used a simple bevel on the outer edge of my legs. While running the router I also turned both sides of the chair.
Arrange all the pieces of your train so that the right side is at the bottom. You need to dig the pocket holes on the wrong side. Every train
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