How To Do Electric Fan

How To Do Electric Fan – Electric car fans and wiring On the second page we worked with relays and one with sirens. Now here’s an introduction to electric cooling fans and how to connect them safely. It is mainly intended for vehicles that do not yet have wires, retrofits, racing cars, etc. If your car already has an electric fan, most of the hard work is done. The view above is a sampling of several different styles of electric fans (some are not scaled). From the wiring diagrams, start from the simplest to the most complex, so that you can easily handle them. Fan Electrical Wiring This is the main focus of the page here. Installation is left as an exercise for the reader (remember this from school!). You don’t need many tools, just a good crimping wire and the usual tools in your mechanic’s toolbox. You may need parts in addition to wiring (high current control and thin relay), automotive relay(s), switches, temperature controlled switches, or one of the now popular high-tech style electronic controllers. When wiring electric fans from scratch, you must follow some basic rules of electricity, but it is quite simple. Here are some tips before you get started – use the right size wire for your system. Use fuses or circuit breakers to prevent the car (or truck) from burning to the ground in the event of a short circuit. Keep wires away from moving parts of the fan or motor. Protect wires from chafing and shorting (see note above about fuses) Make sure all electrical connections are clean, dirty and tight. Before we get to the wiring diagrams, let’s jump into a few components (besides the fan). Click this link if you are looking for a quick introduction to horn relay wiring

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How To Do Electric Fan

General Automotive Fan Relays Above are some typical relays you can find in the automotive industry. It’s important to keep in mind how much power your fan system draws. A single 10 inch fan can handle 5-20 amps! If you are using 2 fans, fuse size, relay capacity and cable are even more important. Left Hand Relay – Standard automotive Bosch style relay. Shoot for the quality 40 amp version (not the cheap 20 amp version as pictured). They are the most common and easiest to install. Center Relay – This is designed for high flow systems. The relay is rated at 70 amps and has screw terminals that may need a little more work to get right. A little extra work is worth it though, as this relay has no problem with most fan systems. I personally like the installation and setup of this relay. I chose the one I use here in my cars – a Tyco 70 Amp Relay. They’re a few bucks more, but it’s a quality part with a lot of excess power, which is good for fans as they tend to be heavy on relays. The best relay is the 70 amp cube style. I’m not a big fan of them because their main power terminals are very different and not that easy to get. They work well and are suitable for a small area, but not a large one (saw). Amazon has them as do many other places, but you have to make sure the 2 terminals are THICK, anything that isn’t is not 70 amp. Prices are usually more than Tyco relays. WARNING: Some relays have pre-wired terminals. Unless the wire gauge is stamped on the wire or you can confirm the wire gauge, suspect a cheaply made wire harness. Better to DIY if possible than get a quality connector that matches your quality relay. Play it safe and control what you use.

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2 Speed ​​Control Manual If you see what’s going on, you’ll say it’s not really 2 speed, but 2 levels, one fan, or two fans at full speed. You’re right, but I’m not sure anyone gets the “2-level speed control” idea. In any case, this is a slightly more complicated pattern, well, just a little. The idea in this case is a switch that can check if a fan is not working, one fan or two fans are not working. This is done with 2 relays of suitable power. The little triangular thing above the switch is a DIODE. It prevents the flow of current in one direction and allows it to flow in the other direction. The part cost about 25 cents (1N4001 – 1N4007 parts can be used). With a few modifications this circuit can be switched to the ground side of the circuit instead of the 12 volt fuse side (ask if you need it, I can find out and post) Operation If you had a SPDT kill switch it has 3 positions. left, center and right. In the middle position there would be no contact with either side and both fans would be OFF. If you complete the circuit on the LOW side of the relay, only the right fan will turn on. When you connect the switch to the HIGH side, both relays will activate and both fans will turn on.

Above – Some fuse solutions. There are several options when it comes to making fuses or switches. The only choices

Left – This is the built-in Maxi-Fuse plug. They are recommended! Nice thick wire and waterproof case

They make a nice cheap internal fuse holder. Maxi fuses are available in the 20-100A range, perfect for you

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Center – A typical ATO/ATC style car fuse to a Maxi fuse. ATO style can be used (with

Suitable built-in holder) for a lower amperage fuse. As you can imagine, I prefer the Maxi-Fuse. It is available in several

Better mostly – it’s a smart choice, automatic switch reset. I’m not that much of an automation fan

Part, but if you have a problem, fix the problem, you’re back on your way without replacing anything. The negative side is

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They cycle on and off (slow deceleration) until the problem is solved. They are available in many different streams

If the fan is rated at 10 amps, that is usually the operating current. At launch, fans can draw multiple boosters

Margin For most fans, a 20 amp fuse is a good idea to start with. Works with fans in the 10-12A range

And keeps things safe. Usually a good starting point is then 50% more amps in the fuse, then round up

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For example, if you are using an 18A fan, add 9 amps (that’s 50% more) for 27 amps. Her number is not 27

Amp protection, meaning up to 30 amps. If multiple fans are running, it is often better to wire them separately in case one is shorted

You have at least one more second to work. If in doubt, check the manufacturer’s site, which they usually provide

Speaking of the fuse, it’s also important to make sure you’re using thick enough wire for the high power connection

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To the. The relays draw very little current, but the fan is a bitch. Use the wire size calculator to determine the approximate size.

In any case, I wouldn’t go smaller than 14 Gauge for the worst fans. With wire, bigger is better, thicker is better.

Simple Fan Relay Wiring The image above is a very simple and basic wiring diagram. It supports one or two fans and uses a simple relay circuit to turn them on. The fans can be turned on or off manually with a switch. If you are using a temperature switch, this can be used to turn them on when the motor reaches a certain set temperature. Often, but not always, these temperature switches are a single terminal with the body going to the engine block or radiator, older cars usually have both grounds. Some newer cars may have a temperature switch with 2 terminals, in which case one side will go to the relay and the other to ground. The “12 volt fuse” wire would go to something like the ignition switch that would energize when the key is on. In some cars, it is connected to an always-on source (still protected), so the car can cool even after the key is turned off. Make sure you know the short-term consequences of this scenario and that the battery can run out of power in strange conditions. Some vehicles have delays that exclude this possibility.

Automatic 2

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