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How To Make A Campfire Chair – About: I got an old sewing machine when I was little and have been making things ever since. My name is Sam and I’m the Community Manager here. More about Seamster »
They are comfortable to sit on and are substantial. Best of all, it packs up neatly, tucked into the back of the seat for storage or transport.
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I made this one out of 1 inch thick solid ash wood with cotton canvas and a lightly padded seat. I’m really happy with how it turned out and I hope you use my plans for yours.
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I wanted a pair of portable wooden chairs that were particularly sturdy and durable, but I wasn’t impressed with what was available.
I laid out some butcher paper on the table and began to work out the geometry and full-scale details using a ruler and protractor. I’m old school like that.
My goal was to create a plan that made the most of simple measurements and materials. I think it was a successful effort and I’m proud of how it all turned out!
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The image above is a digital version of my final plan and contains almost all the details needed to complete a wooden frame for a chair. However, we have covered the entire build process in the following steps.
This project requires access to common woodworking tools. However, there are many ways to achieve the same result and the path you take depends on the tools and skill level you have.
I used a table saw and a band saw, as well as drills, routers, grinders and the usual finishing materials. For the pieces of fabric I used a sewing machine along with other common sewing accessories.
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Other hardwoods such as oak or maple would also be good choices. I wouldn’t recommend anything softer like pine or cedar.
The board I purchased was 1 inch thick and 11 inches wide and was chosen because it was particularly flat, straight and wide enough to fit a full chair through a 4 foot section of the board.
I started by cutting a 48 1/2″ long section from the finished board (a little extra to cover the cuts).
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I cut a 1/4″ piece from one edge to be used to make the G pieces (see plan).
Generally, you want to start with a very straight board edge. You can add a border or even mark a straight line on the border and cut by hand with a band saw or circular saw.
The 3″ piece was then taken to the bandsaw and split in half. It was marked with a point in the center of one edge and then carefully freehand cut with a 1/2″ 3 teeth per inch blade.
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All the pieces were then taken back to the table saw and cut to the length shown on the plan using a cross slide.
All slots were cut with a band saw to the dimensions of the matching cross pieces and are positioned as shown on the plan.
If your table saw is set up with a dado crosscut system, you can cut the slot this way. Or cut and chisel by hand. Or whatever method you choose.
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The C cross-pieces have a slightly chamfered cut on the edge where the chair legs rest. These bevels were cut with a table saw.
I did this on purpose to strengthen the joints and strengthen the entire chair.
But because of this, this area requires a bit more precision. During storage, the chair legs (which are 1 1/2″ wide) must slide between these two C-cross pieces, so clearance must be at least 1 5/8″. Be sure to mark and cut the notches for the C-cross pieces
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The angles at the bottom of the legs were marked and cut with a band saw. See plan for dimensions.
A quarter (any coin will do, as this is purely aesthetic) to mark the curves of all the pointed ends of the legs. The sharp bits were cut off and the parts sanded down to the marked lines.
However, where the pieces would join I left the square edges unmilled. This required dry fitting and some pencil marks to indicate where not to go, but this little extra work made the subsequent joints look clean.
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The flat surfaces of the parts were lightly sanded with 150 grit sandpaper using an orbital sander.
I used Titebond III glue because it is water resistant and more suitable for projects that will probably get out in the rain at some point.
All joints were soldered but also secured with treated deck screws inserted into countersunk tapered pilot holes. The screws on the deck may have been overkill as they would all be completely off. . But they can’t hurt.
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The thin G-pieces are the slats that make the backrest perfect for storage.
Glue this to the top of the B pieces, flush with the front edge. I used tape to hold them in place until the glue dried.
If you cut the pieces according to the plan, the parts fit together logically. Place the cross piece E in place before the seat slats.
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The seat slats (part F) must first be attached with the rear slats flush with the rear end of the slats.
Eye clamps were used to hold the B-leg sections 15 7/8 inches apart, and the protruding seat slats on each side measured 1 inch.
I used a 1/2″ poplar dowel to connect all the threaded holes. I cut a 6″ piece big enough for all the holes in a chair.
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Glue was applied to the end of the plug and the plug was hammered into place. Using a flexible pull saw, the protruding plug was cut off and the process repeated.
The plugged holes were smoothed in place with 150 grit paper on an orbital sander, as well as any visible bits of glue.
I finished the wooden frames with several coats of urethane on the back. I find oil based gives better results so that’s what I used.
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An offer is possible. Follow the instructions on the box and apply several coats. If you take your time (read: it can take a few days), you can create a waterproof layer of plastic that’s nice and smooth. It’s boring if you do it right, but the result is worth it.
Then again, if you’re lazy, you can spray on a few coats of spray paint and call it good!
I usually do this with non-outdoor furniture, but in this case I felt it was worth the extra time and effort.
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They are made of heavy cotton canvas with straps to hold them in place and on the inside I used pieces of anti-fatigue mats for padding.
The cushions are only 1/2 inch thick, but the dense foam provides decent cushioning without adding bulk to the finished seats.
The lid is basically a flat envelope with an opening at the bottom where you can insert the foam pad.
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The half-inch side of each bottom piece was ironed twice and then sewn (see diagram note above).
1″ pieces of strap were cut. For each seatpost, the sliders were sewn to the ends of two straps and cut 6″ long and two more pieces were cut 12″ long.
All the cut ends of the mesh strips were melted with a lighter to prevent the ends from breaking.
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The bottom pieces were placed over the top piece and pinned in place inside out.
The short side edges were now thrown down. I actually sewed a second time to strengthen the seam.
Measuring from the sewn edges, I placed a 2 1/2″ mark at both ends of both long sides. The strips will be sewn just inside these marks.
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Place the strips as shown in the picture and bring the long sides together. The sliding strips should be positioned so that when the cover is turned to the right, the sliders are oriented as desired.
The long sides of the lid were now joined. The straps are sewn 3 times to strengthen the connection.
The foam for the seat support was cut on a straight edge cutting mat and a utility knife (only one piece of foam per seat was used).
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A piece of foam was inserted into the lid and the bottom of the lid was manually closed.
The backrest is made from a piece of cotton fabric that is stapled and then screwed to the wooden frame with stainless steel screws and stainless washers.
The fabric for the backrest was cut and hemmed as shown in the diagram. See pictures
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