How To Wire A Junction Box For A Socket

How To Wire A Junction Box For A Socket – The Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for serious contractors and professionals. It only takes a minute to sign up.

I’m doing some renovations in my basement and part of that work involves flipping a light switch. When I traced the switch wires I found this on top of my sunken ceiling:

How To Wire A Junction Box For A Socket

Now, I’m no electrician, but that doesn’t look like code to me. Further investigation revealed this in another area of ​​the roof:

Loop In Junction Box Wiring Diagram.jpg

Not sure if these junction boxes are set up for coding, the one with all the wires hanging out looked particularly fishy to me.

Now, for the first picture, my idea was to install a junction box between the joists on the right of the picture (the hot wire goes under the joist on the right, the switch and socket face the cam, and the load control switches are in the off position on the left). I’ll probably end up restarting some threads, but that’s not a problem as everything is accessible now.

Are the boxes in the second photo installed correctly and if not, what is the correct way to install the junction box in this space?

It is OK to install junction boxes above a suspended ceiling as long as the box is less than 100 in³ and securely fastened. The National Electrical Code should say…

I Removed Some Drywall And Found A Junction Box Hidden Behind It. Could I Wire In An Outlet There To Use This Space As A Wall Nook Instead Of Just Putting A

National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials 314 Outlet, Appliance, Pull and Junction Boxes. behavior agencies; Completes; and Handhole II tanks. Place 314.23 in brackets. Attachments within the scope of this section must be supported in accordance with one or more of the provisions of 314.23(a) through (h). (d) suspended ceilings. The volume of the container mounted on the structural or supporting members of a suspended ceiling shall not exceed 1650 cm3 (100 in3) and shall be securely fastened in place in accordance with (D)(1) or (D)(2) . (1) Frame members. The enclosure shall be secured to the framing members by mechanical means such as screws, bolts, or nails, or by the use of clamps or other means of attachment specified for use with the type of ceiling framing members and enclosure employees ). Framing members must be adequately supported and securely connected to each other and to the building structure. (2) Support cables. The facility must comply with the provisions of 300.11(a). The enclosure shall be attached, using methods specified for this purpose, to the ceiling support wires, including any additional support wires installed for this purpose. The support wires used to support the casing must be fixed at each end so that they are stretched within the roof cavity.

300.15 Casings, conduit bodies, or fittings where applicable. … When the wiring method is conduit, conduit, AC-type cable, MC-type cable, MI-type cable, non-metallic sheathed cable or other cables, a conduit box or body should be installed at each connection point, outlet point, switch point, junction point, termination point, exit point…

You are on the right track. Junction boxes with empty covers are allowed above a suspended ceiling as they are not considered an enclosed space. Loose and stranded wires must be placed in the junction box. Additionally, clamps must be used on each wire entering the junction box. Some boxes have clips pre-installed, otherwise you will need to use the RX socket in the socket. It’s hard to tell if it’s installed from your photos. An open hole in the wireless junction box is also unacceptable. Rigid metal covers must be fitted to the boxes.

I think even with junction boxes the image is still not legal as there should be an isolated bus between the two junction boxes

Diagram Of Installation Electrical Wiring Junction Box Stock Photo

By clicking “Accept all cookies”, you agree that Stack Exchange may store cookies on your device and disclose information in accordance with our Cookie Policy. in junction boxes instead of on the roof. The junction box effectively replaces the roof riser.

As with the rose, the INPUT wire is fed to the previous consumer unit or junction box and the OUTPUT wire is connected to the next junction box. These cables contain active, neutral and permanent ground wires.

The switch connects the permanent active terminal and the switching active terminal. The lamp is connected to an active, neutral switch.

When activated, the switch connects the active and active terminals (top and bottom in this example).

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As before, the switch connects the live and live terminals, and the AC power lead has a small piece of brown shielding to indicate that it is indeed a live wire.

The LIGHT cable is connected to light fixtures. This can be useful if the lamps are wall-mounted, as only one wire is required for each lamp. Alternatively, the light can be obnoxious with only 3 stops – like most DIY shop buys on Sunday afternoons.

This wiring method is not recommended. The main problem is that the junction boxes must remain easily accessible—very difficult, because they are hidden under the floorboards. If regular ceiling roses are installed, the terminals on them are largely wasted and extra money is spent on unnecessary junction boxes.

If the junction boxes are installed in the attic, it is likely to be very dark and dirty and the junction boxes are likely buried under insulation, piles of old rubbish and lots of dead pigeons.

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As with the ceiling roses, pre-2005 fixtures will have red and black wires with a green/yellow sheath.

Luminaires with a soft green coating on the ground wires typically have a lifespan of about 40 years and will likely require replacement.

While a 5A junction box is fine for a lighting circuit (even if it’s on a 6A switch), it’s generally easier to use the 20A types. These are larger and have more room for cables. There is not much difference in price between the 5A and 20A types, so there is no point in using 5A unless physical box size is an issue. The Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and professionals. It only takes a minute to sign up.

See image A below. Pre-assembled with 3-bulb bulb. I replaced it with 4 spot strips to successfully duplicate the previous wiring setup.

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See image B below. The old part had 3 live wires and 3 neutral wires coming out of it. Two wires are connected from the junction box. A wire contains 1L, 1N and 1G. The other appears to have these and an additional red (perhaps larger caliber?)

Inside the junction box, the two black boxes were joined together and kept separate. The 2 eggs were tied and connected to the 3 machine eggs (5 eggs in total). Then there’s red.

It looks like the device is using the red wire (like live?) from 1 and it matches the neutral wires. Then connect the two black wires of these wires together to form a closed loop. I think the two ground wires connected as well.

If the above is true, why was it necessary? Was it a load/consumption issue or a future way in case of scaling? What is the purpose of the red thread – where does it come from? Was Sudan alive too?

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Apparently the device uses the red wire (how does it live?) 1… If the above is true, why was it necessary? What is the purpose of the red thread – where does it come from? Was Sudan alive too?

🇧🇷 Let me ask you this: How does light know when to turn on and when to turn off? Do you want this light to be always on?

Now where do you think the hot key is? It’s not magic. It takes it from another wire, which is always hot. The switch always comes hot or not. always warm

And what about neutral? Neutral returns current to the source. (Kind of like plumbing, you hook up a return pipe or you’ll have a giant greasy mess all over the factory floor.) The bulb needs a neutral, which oscillates between hot and neutral, just as you can see. code

Exposed Wiring Junction Box Half Complete Ready For Operation In Home Garage Stock Image

Now you think. Wait. Why does the switch need neutral? This is not a switch. But if you go to a smart switch it will fit and its application will be a 2011 code requirement. Switch loops/3 wires should be:

The box is fully colored and the colors always match the functionality. This is usually not possible (although it is always fair to tape the cables).

The bulb does not need to be constantly hot, so it continues to work. The left wire /2 carries current, the right wire /3 of the adapter is branch.

You probably have what is called a 3-wire loop. Red and black are “hot” wires and are both connected

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