How To Make A Mid Century Chair – The first step was to measure all the trees. I cut the wood to length with my miter and smoothed it when it was all together. With the planer, I make sure both sides are flat and smooth.
I started cutting all the pieces on my table saw. I made sure all the pieces were the same width and length.
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I used a router table to give a soft wood. Router speed is important here. Alternatively, you can burn wood.
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I attached these pieces with dowels. First I drilled some 8mm holes. The depth of the hole is slightly more than half of the dowel, leaving room for extra glue. I used a dowel to check that all the holes were correct.
Each leg is made of 50mm wood as it is thicker than the back. I cut the corner with tape, and the leg with a jigsaw.
The next step is to drill the pieces. I tried to remove the burn marks and smoothed it out here and there with 200# sandpaper.
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I built this model in SolidWorks and after basically reorganizing everything I decided to release the design. Because during the production I changed the design a little because of the material. However, many people ask for plans and want to build them.
Anyway, here’s a screenshot of the cut plan, and I think you can figure it out. This plan includes all the dimensions needed to build the chair. But the parts are not labeled, which makes assembly a bit difficult. But in perspective, it’s really not that difficult. The design is given in metric units. (eg 500 means 500 mm) Just ignore the number after the decimal. It doesn’t have to be that accurate. This project was also part of my school’s woodworking class. I wanted a furniture project that really meant something to me. Hmmm… What could be more meaningful than a chair that I can sit on within 24 hours?! How about a chair with a really cool design? So I started looking for inspiring chair designs and came across the Shawn Boyd Mid-Century New Lounge Chair. It was an amazing job, as are all the projects on your channel. I knew this project was for me, but since there were no plans, I made my own. (Update: Sean now has the designs on his website).
Below is a list of the tools I use. Other equipment can be substituted. As always, take proper safety precautions when working with machinery.
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Using photos of Shawn Boyd’s chair, I started with some full size sketches and drawings of what I wanted my chair to look like. While I’m sure it’s not an exact copy, I think I did a great job of capturing the unique style of the chair.
For convenience, I have converted my full-scale drawing to a CAD drawing, which can be found as a STEP file below. It helps you see more from the seat. I also added details such as dowels, mortise joints and screws. I tried to make everything as accurate as possible. I also created full-sized PDF drawings, which are also available below. Note: These are large documents and should be printed on large 44″ x 34″ paper or compiled onto multiple 8.5″ x 11″ sheets. See this guide on how to “convert” documents into multiple sheets of paper.
The prototype was quick and cheap because I used cheap 3/4″ painted pine and cheap plywood. I didn’t even bother to build the “L” frame and the seat post. I made the legs using the same process later in detail. .instructions, and used them as templates for actual feet.
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The legs and arms are 5/4″ oak. The leg assembly consists of three parts: the front leg, the hand leg, and the back leg. I was able to cut two of each section at 7 1/4″. wide board, so I only used 3 sections of 5/4″ board. I cut 3 sections from an 8″ long board and then traced the legs using the prototype legs. I made sure to draw on the right side of the leg. Ka Table (This is a reference surface for the miter saw. I then cut out all the band saw legs.
Now I glued several identical pieces with double-sided tape. I made all the angled cuts on the saw, cutting both pieces at the same time. This ensured that both sets of legs were equal.
For each miter joint, I marked the position of the dowel to make sure the line was lined up with the other side of the joint. Next, I drilled the holes for the dowels with a 3/8″ bit and a dowel holder. I set the depth of each hole to be slightly less than half the length of the dowel.
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I let all the joints dry and after making sure the holes line up I can get ready to glue the leg pieces together. I tightened the hand screw clamps parallel to the front surface of each joint. These will act as clamps to hold onto when attaching the connector. I then applied wood glue to all sides of the joint and clamped it 4 times per joint. I applied the glue with a damp cloth and wiped it off.
After the legs were dry, I taped the two sets of legs together with double sided tape. To hold the pieces in the final shape, I used a spindle moulder and hand strap. Another method would be to use a pattern bit on the router to match the legs exactly to the prototype template.
All parts of the chair are made of 3/4″ x 7 1/4″ oak. First, I removed all the necessary parts from the board.
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Then, using a dado stack, I made 1/4″ x 1/2″ tongues on both sides of the stock that make up the vertical pieces. Then I cut three vertical bars from each 7 1/4″ wide board.
I also cut the horizontal slot on the table saw. Then I cut the ridges into horizontal lines with a nanny’s neck and a penny board.
After checking that the frame fit together, I sanded the edges of all the screws with 220 grit sandpaper as it would be hard to get to later. I also cut ten 1″ spacers to get the correct placement on the carrier.
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Then I glued the seat frame and the backrest frame. I used the wrench 4 times per bead to apply pressure to the horizontal pieces.
After that dried, I used a 1/4″ round on a portable router to smooth out the horizontal lines on both frames. Finally, I sanded everything down with 150 and 220 grit sandpaper.
Two thick “L” shaped screws are used to attach the seat to the back. These were cut on a saw from the same 3/4″ plank of wood.
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I used the same procedure as when making the legs: with double sided glue, I cut the nails with a saw, drilled the dowel holes and glued them together.
After all the “L’s” were dry, I added a 1/4″ round with a portable router, then everything went down to 220.
Then I drew where the seat and back supports should be drawn. With a drill bit smaller than the wood screw thread, I drilled ten guide holes in one of the belts. Then I put the screws together and changed the guide holes to other beads.
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Assembling the chair is a two-person job, as several parts must be assembled. The seat assembly was glued on without screws. Later, screws are added for structural support.
First, I glued the two frames to an L-brace and let it dry for about 10 minutes. I then placed the second L bracket and let the entire assembly dry for 24 hours.
I then extended the pilot hole in the seat frame (the length of the beam) so the wood wouldn’t bend. Also, I used a countersink so the tops of the screws are about 1/8″ below the surface of the “L” brackets. After all the wood screws were in, I filled all the screw holes with walnut stock. I sanded it down. Even. I made sure the grain of the bullet was parallel to the surrounding wood. Part of the grain of the bullet matched the wood so much that it was hard to tell there was a bullet in it.
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Before adding the legs, I rounded off all the sharp edges on the router and then drilled them with 220.
Then, I glued a chair leg to the chair assembly, making sure
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