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How To Make A Halloween Electric Chair Prop – My wife and I have a flower painting party every weekend before Halloween. We use our unfinished basement for events where friends get together to eat, watch movies, and participate in general Halloween mayhem. There is a tradition of building additional rooms in the basement area.
For the past few years, they’ve had permanent shoes that look like real-life dioramas.So they decided to build an electric chair. One chair has an animated sculpture that rotates when you press a button. Another chair will be an interactive space where visitors can sit and receive simulated blows.
How To Make A Halloween Electric Chair Prop
The first step is to make two wooden chairs. I was looking for pictures of electric chairs on the internet. I based the chair design on a few different chairs, took aspects I liked and combined them.I spent a little extra time on the design to make up for the lack of materials. I was going to do everything with glue and wood chips.
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We also created a map to track the timber that needed to be felled. The attached PDF lists the wood required for one chair. The first page contains the bill of materials used for the basic cut list. The last five pages provide dimensions and angles for parts that require more complex cuts than square cuts.
Safety first! Read all tool instructions, understand how to use them, and wear/use proper safety equipment.
I wanted some nice square corners to make the chair look more realistic than just cut and assembled size lumber from my local big box store. , cut to the required size. For example, if you want a 2×4, buy a 2×6 and cut it 3.5 inches wide. You’ll need to cut about 1/4 inch off one side and remove the remaining material from the other side.Another advantage of this is when cutting the board for the table, you know you have a good square board. So it works as designed without the need for woodworking skills.
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To finish off the chair, which seems to be used, I took it outside and put a chain through the trunk. Martha Stewart probably keeps the chain links just for occasions like this.This step was tricky at first, but this time I spent it making clean squares and straight sheets.Then I abused him with various metal tools, like something out of a horror movie. I was able to swing it. In addition to saws, I saw hammer blades carved into the woods. He recommends worrying twice as much as you think is enough.
Then I painted the entire chair black. I used general purpose black spray paint. The idea here is to add a usable dark scene. One coat was enough. I just wanted the paint to stay in the cracks in the wood and remove the tightness.
Once the paint was dry, I started gluing. I wanted to remove most of the black paint, but it looked similar, so I kept some of it… liberating the sweat and grease of countless prisoners who died. I sanded most of it with his 100-150 grit to leave a very smooth surface, but left it pitted for the stain to seep through. Place about 40-grit sandpaper on the sheet to dissolve any dirt.After sanding, the entire sheet was dusted and wiped with a microfiber cloth.
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I chose the color “Early American” for the stain and it worked just fine. I also tried the version that comes in the spray can and the tube stain that you dab on with a sponge/stick.It was easy to spray, but on the second chair I used the can stain and did it by hand. I unrolled it.I was very pleased with how the wood stain held up on hand application.Let the stain dry overnight and you’re good to go.
For the chair that houses the anime statue, the skeleton frame of the victim is made of PVC pipe. I decided to frame from bottom to top. I didn’t want to move my legs. The front of the moguls bolts to the seat, so we didn’t have to worry about it falling into the frame. The frame he created in two parts separating the dummy with a diaphragm. I did this to have complex movements so that it doesn’t look like a metal trash can on the back. I joined the two parts of him with a block of wood called the sternum. This is also the anchor point used to transfer the motion from the actuator. To make sure I had all the right size pipes, I did some hard drilling and used PVC cement to glue them all together.
Now that the frame is together, we need to dance it. A friend who donated to this cause. This particular model has a slider switch for speed, which was nice because you can set it to a specific speed and stay there. If you’re using the newer trigger models, you can always use a pipe wrench or a zip tie to secure the trigger. I wanted the saw to be on all the time and use a relay to turn it on and off. The shoes also had some screw holes so I was able to attach them to the back of the seat using machine screws through the back tabs. I had to cut the slot.
Electric Chair (h: 1.82m X W: 0.8m X D: 0.6m)
To attach the saw to the frame, I got a piece of metal with a hole (sorry I don’t know the official name) from the hardware section of any home improvement store. I was able to pry off the ends so that they would fit in the grooves of the saw blade. I drilled small holes to attach the metal strips to the support blocks using wood screws. I also bent the metal strips 90 degrees and attached them to both the top and front of the sternum block for added strength.
At this point, the saw should be enabled. Be careful because they control things with their power. You can adjust the saw speed to see how the jig movement changes. There was a sweet spot that had natural dummy frequencies that really rocked it.
The next step is to make the tail. I bought a prisoner costume at a Halloween thrift store and made strategic cuts to fit the frame.I used polyfill from the craft store to fill the box. The legs are made of rolled cardboard. I had old shoes on my feet. On my hands and arms are my favorite cutout gloves of him that I got at a thrift store for Halloween, they are so cute. For the head, I got a cheap styrofoam head at a craft store. I attached an LED light to the head so that the eyes would light up when the power was turned on. I covered my head with a scarf. So i had to face it. The cap allowed the LED light to shine through without the raw foam on the head being visible.
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Since it’s an electric chair, you have to hold the victim down. For this I used a skin left over from a previous project. A trip to the local Tandy Leathercraft store provides necessary supplies and
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