How To Make A Upholstered Chair – Learn how to build your own dining room chairs with this DIY Upholstered Dining Chairs Tutorial with step-by-step photos and printable plans.
Hello guys. As I mentioned earlier this week, I’ll be sharing how I created the Parson’s Chairs for our DIY Farmhouse Table. I really wanted to try again to save money on chairs, but I couldn’t find one that matched our table, had a fabric we liked, or didn’t have arms or legs. These chairs cost around $40 each to make. The cloth fetched the highest price. Home decor fabric isn’t cheap, but I found it on sale at Hobby Lobby. I wanted something that would complement the decor of our home and not get dirty with dirty fingers. Once again, I found the plans for these chairs from the dear Ana White. Her plans are great, but I made a change to better suit our needs/wants. Based on another laudable post, I used 2×3 for the bench seat and back, as well as the back legs. I also increased the seat back height to 22 inches and changed the back angle from 15 degrees to 5 degrees. They could have sat a little straighter as they are the formal dining chairs at our informal table 🙂
How To Make A Upholstered Chair
The first step is to assemble the chairs. I used the Kreg Jigto to drill all the pocket holes in my bench pieces. Using 2 1/2″ pocket screws, I attached the sides of the seats. This was the hardest. Stabilizing the arch to hold everything together was a bit tricky.
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Once the sides and back are secured, you will reattach the lower and rear seat supports with the 2 1/2″ screws.
Next, you start building the legs. When assembling the legs, make sure the holes are facing the right way to attach them to the seat. I’ve come close to making this mistake a few times 🙂
I used 1/2 inch plywood for the back and bottom of the chairs. You can also use duct tape (available at glue and fabric stores) for the bottom of the chairs. After sitting on them for a few months, my husband thinks we should opt for some jute tape to make the seat more flexible (is that a word?). If possible, I might replace the plywood backing with tape. One day… After assembling all the chairs, I treated the bases with Minwax Provencial and Minwax Polycrylic stain. There is no need to finish the seat as it will be covered with fabric.
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I used spray adhesive to attach the 1/2 inch foam bumper to the back of the seat. Be careful not to push the bumper too hard behind the seat.
I cut the excess with scissors so that it is flush with the sides of the arch. Then I sprayed glue on the seat and attached the foam.
Then came the part I dreaded the most. I don’t do sewing. I’m not saying I hate it, but I don’t do it because I want to. When I take it off, the layer of dust makes my grandmother squeal.
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Since I made four chairs, I made a pattern out of freezer paper to use over and over again. Keep in mind that if you are adapting the seat to a 17 × 15 inch seat size and/or seat back height, you will need to make the same changes to the fabric pattern. I’m not a very good sewist, so I can’t really explain how to sew this. I let Ana practice. He describes it much better than I can.
This is what my bench looked like when I was done. The hardest part of sewing was making sure all my strips lined up. I accidentally installed it incorrectly and spent a lot of time with the ripper to fix this error. If you want it to look like a pillow, you can easily sew a hem underneath. You have what you want 🙂 Sew still to finish the side seams.
I used lots of bobby pins to secure the fabric under the seat and then cut off the excess fabric.
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To attach the seat bottom to the back, use the topstitching method for an invisible side seam.
After sewing is complete, use a 2 1/2″ screw to secure the seat base to the seat. Before letting any of the kids touch any of them, we covered them with masking tape to protect them from spills and stains.
I was very pleased with the result. I loved that we could paint them the same color as our table and it saved us a lot of money.
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Here they are on our table. They are very durable chairs and we have had no stains so far! Of course, it could be because I put my kids in the booster seat 😉
If you like these chairs, I would love to share them with your friends. I hope you give them a try if you want to do something similar. Early plans sometimes make a great addition to a bench or craft room. I can do the same in my craft room 🙂 Making furniture can be a difficult project, but it sounds more complicated than it actually is. A thrift store chair with clean lines, a sturdy frame, and good upholstery would be the perfect item for a budding upholsterer.
Tip: Chairs with fabric panels surrounded by exposed wood moldings are an easy project for the beginner stickler. More elaborate chairs may include studs and other materials to hide raw edges. Before you buy, research your chair carefully to make sure it’s right for your abilities.
Easyfashion Fabric Upholstered Classic Dining Chair With High Back,2pcs, Dark Gray
Using a staple remover, carefully remove the fabric, staples, and trim from the seat (Figure 1). Wear gloves and safety glasses during this step. Mark each piece of fabric removed with a permanent marker and mark how the seat is assembled and where each piece of fabric is attached (Figure 2). If the panels are sewn together, use a seam ripper to separate the panels and note how they are attached. Remove the spacer that would limit access to the hoop where the fabric needs to be attached. All other fillers, belts and springs remain in place. Cardboard pieces, lids, masking tape, fillers, etc. can be reused. After cleaning, go back to the frame with the staple remover and remove any staples that might interfere with the new staples when you reassemble the seat (Figure 3).
Attach the removed fabric panels to the new cover fabric (Figure 1). Make sure the two pieces of fabric are facing the same direction, they should be an exact copy, not a mirror (Figure 2). Cut the new lining fabric using the old fabric as a template (photo 3). Repeat this process with all the panels. If the panel is to be assembled on a sewing machine, sew these pieces together in this step.
Remove pegs and old padding from each new fabric panel before use, so there’s no confusion about which piece goes where. Most chairs need to be assembled starting from the back, armrests, and seat. For this chair, the seat back had to be assembled first, then the inner back, then the seat and armrests, and finally the outer armrests. Staple each panel once to secure it in place, then staple each side to make sure the panel fits properly and doesn’t pull to one side or the other. Make sure the stapler is in a straight line to close with the clipper (Figure 1). The staples should be about 1/2 inch apart. The back of the seat should always be reinforced with tiles, cardboard or tape (Figure 2). Tip: Do not attempt to close the seat with an electric or manual stapler. Not too bulky and strong enough for this project.
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When covering the seat back, place the fabric panel on the back of the seat and check the fabric pattern lines if necessary. Place a clamp over the panel to hold it in place. Pass the fabric over the back of the seat frame and gently pinch (Figure 1). Pull the fabric at the sides and pin the frame to secure it in place (Figure 2). Be careful not to pull the fabric too hard to one side so that the pattern curves. After installation and fixing in different places. Go around the panel and insert staples every 1/4 inch (Figure 3). Leave the zipper under the backrest open until the seat fabric panel is in place.
Place the fabric panel on the seat and unfold. if
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