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How To Add An Outlet From A Light Switch – The Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for serious contractors and professionals. It only takes a minute to register.
In my garage I have a hole in the ceiling that opens my garage door. There are black and white wires sticking out, and I can’t see the ground.
How To Add An Outlet From A Light Switch
I have installed conduit through the ceiling to the work bench area where I want to install sockets at bench level and turn on the controlled ceiling lights. I know I have to use GFCIs for outlets, at least. I have two questions about how the wiring works:
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The power enters in the lower left corner. In this option, everything is on the GFCI side of the load and the outlets are connected the same way.
It’s much easier. That should keep the lights from dimming if the GFCI goes out, right? Are there limits?
Your first photo is almost correct. The sockets must be installed in parallel, as well as the lights. Lights may be GFCI protected, but probably aren’t necessary (unless they’re in a shower in your garage).
You also need a neutral on the switch, even when not in use. So it can be even more.
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A GFCI is needed to protect grounded (3-wire) appliances connected to ungrounded (2-wire) circuits. See exception 410.44 #3:
Exception no. 3: When there is no ground conductor in the installation, GFCI protected lights do not need to be connected to the ground conductor.
I am not an electrician. You must use a licensed and bonded electrician. Your municipality may require a permit. Internet habits can KILL YOU.
That said, I think I know what I’m doing, but use this advice at your own risk. I recommend not putting lights behind a GFCI unless the bulbs are outdoors and possibly exposed to the weather. This is what you depict in your second photo, but there are a few issues with it:
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As I don’t want to take a picture, I will explain the electrical networks to you. IOW, for each network below, there should be a relationship between each device listed after the network name (and phone color).
If your lights will be outdoors and you want to protect them from ground faults, then the wire to the breaker box (neutral and neutral) must come from the load side of the GFCI, not directly from the panel (or GFCI on the side line). You can wire it from a GFCI box or one of the outlet boxes, whichever is closest to your breaker box.
There may be additional code requirements in your area that your local electrician can help you with. For example, use 12AWG for 20A switches or 14AWG for 15A and solder the Romex wires to the stud next to the box they go into. Leave approximately 10-12″ of wire hanging when you drill and strip the ends as directed on the wire packet or QuickWire push-hole guides. Use wire nuts that are rated in number and type. of these wires, the thread will be attached to everyone Don . ‘Burn down your house. 🙂
Mine is the same as the first pic…with 3 wires…the load side can’t be shared when it comes back to the line side because my location…the source is at the end of the room from the interior of the gcfi on the exterior wall across the room in my attached garage which shares two rooms…the thing is…one is an unfinished room…everything is covered but the empty thing is I see the basement. bedroom door.. and its easy to see the wires behind the bedroom boxes only on one side of the bedroom when i want to work.. that bedroom had no light or gcfi bedroom just a common area no related to security. from the weather where the source is from the equipment bathroom.. there is an outlet i can work on and add more outlets in that room and complete the circuit for the external gcfi outlet.. so i use a combination of 12/2 and 12/3 for my schedule.. I liked the pics.. I can do my own version here
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I wish I could install a fluorescent light (T8) and sink in my indoor garage. I plan to use 1/2 inch conduit with 12 gauge Romex wire. I have an existing 60 watt circuit (plugged into a light fixture) that I want to run. However, I need a little help with the wiring. I proceeded to make a draft of my design to type. EDIT Or…there is a package available that I can use under power. Would it be easy? *Edit #2 Ignore my question about the ground wires. The only question I have is if this web image I edited is correct and is it safe to upload it this way?
Your design looks great as is. However, the “down to the code” part is more difficult and involved:
The existing wiring had to be legal when the house was built and we assume it was. However, if you modify the circuit (add sockets, lights, etc.), the entire circuit should be ready to code as it is now. So all appliances should be protected by a GFCI, at least some height off the ground, etc., etc.
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Without knowing more about your current wiring and knowing your local laws, it is impossible to say whether or not this proposed change will be possible.
There are also other things to consider, like more padding for the electrical box (if you add more wires to your switch box, you may break the electrical code because of it).
I am replacing two light switches with a small switch and relay. I have a networked switch and it works fine, but I’m worried about the next step. If I understand correctly, you should:
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The black wire is a little weird in my opinion. Just one that connects to the two “hot spots” on the light switch. This is how the old one was installed.
Am I missing something? Also, what’s the easiest and correct way to add those two extra wires? I have no other desire than a 100 foot reel for only a few centimeters.
All safety ground wires in your enclosure must be connected together. It’s not enough to take the ground from one romex and connect it to the switch and another from the romex harness to the output. It’s best to tie them together at the back of the box with good quality yarn and have pigtails coming out of each section.
The way to connect to the existing white wires would be to use a small piece of bare shielded white wire on each end (pigtail). One end will connect to existing white wires with a wire nut and the other end to your connector.
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For the black wire, remove one end of the switch. Then connect the second length of black pigtail wire to the wire and push it to the back of the box. One pigtail goes to the switch and the other to your socket.
To get the yarn pieces for the pigtails you can cut a length of excess romex yarn and pull individual yarns from there OR you can visit a good hardware store where they usually sell yarn by the foot.
This will put the packet in the same circuit, but without a switch, i.e. the switch does not turn on and off.
Basically, everywhere you go, black is warm, white is neutral, and bare/green is ground (at least for AC).
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