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I removed the wood paneling from one room to reveal plaster and sharp laths. I covered it with 3/8 inch drywall. Now I need to add spacers to the electric valve and light switch.
How To Secure An Electrical Box For A Ceiling Fan
Except for an outlet that was never fully secured to begin with. (I think the previous owner glued it to the plywood, which is now broken/missing?):
Tapping Into An Existing Outlet
Before discussing the box and opening, note that the shielded cable is not properly connected to the box. There is a box with internal clamps for the shielded wire, but I don’t recommend using them, I would get a fitting that connects the shielded wire via a cut with a nut. If you are not 100% sure about using these accessories with the cable shield, call an electrician to make this repair, mistakes can be dangerous. It is extremely important to install them correctly without damaging the insulation of the cables on the peninsula of the island.
The rest of this job is simple in general, but like most things the devil is in the details; You have to choose the right box and the details are very important. The details are more complicated than they first appear.
The original question is how to do this properly without making the hole bigger. However, the code requires that there be no space between the box and the opening and the drywall/plasterboard.
You know how easy it is to cut your hair short, but almost impossible to grow it longer? It’s like a hole in the wall. It’s easy to make it bigger, but a lot of work to make it smaller.
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So for practical purposes, you need to find a box the size of this hole, or find a large box that works and enlarge the hole. I don’t think you will find a box that fits the exact size of this hole that meets all the requirements.
To facilitate the connection of the cable island, it is easiest to stick to the metal box. Plastic boxes would be fine because they are a little bigger than metal boxes, but tying the cable sleeves is an extra challenge. I think a decent solution is possible with a metal case, so I won’t look for more complicated possibilities.
You need a device box – one with a threaded hole in the face of the box where you can screw the device (switch or container). A device box is also called a switch box, although you can also use a switch box for a container; so I prefer the less common term “device box”. You can see that the boxes available are utility boxes, but that’s not all you need.
Old work box (renovation) with plaster ears – flanges to prevent the box from falling on the wall. The existing box does not have a plaster ear. The bottom box has plaster lugs at the top and bottom:
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Some older work boxes also have quick latches that move and move when you turn a screw, holding the box from the inside to prevent the box from falling off the wall:
But these are options; You can also use F-clips to keep the box from pulling away from the wall. F-clips are in the shape of the letter “F” cut out of sheet metal and are installed when the box is in place so that it does not come away from the wall:
(EDIT: In a later comment, the OP added that the box goes through the plinth molding. In that case, it’s actually easier to use the screw holes in the plaster ear to hold the box in place instead of quick fasteners, so for that . Better to use a box without fasteners.)
As mentioned above, the code requires the opening to fit the case and it is difficult to make the hole smaller. It would be difficult or impossible to find an older single gear box to fit the existing opening. Therefore, you may be forced to use the old dual function box and widen the existing opening.
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You can install two duplex bins in the same box or use a half-empty bin between two gang members.
To keep things simple, you want a box with the recommended cutouts for your shielded cable assembly, and you want them in a place where the fittings won’t interfere with the box going into the opening. Removal next to the existing box may make it difficult or impossible to get the box into the opening with the shielded cable equipment.
If you must use the knockouts in the back of the box, you must use right-angle equipment, unless the wall cavity is very deep.
With all this in mind, you need a two-way old metal work box, with the use of a knock-out. If the box doesn’t have heavy-duty fasteners, you’ll still need F-clips.
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(Edit: As mentioned above – with the box in the form of a wooden base, quick clamps are also needed, F-clips are also needed, you can screw the ear tips / flange to the correct shape and it holds securely .)
A deeper box would be ideal, but this works. The KOs may be too close to the face of the box to go into the top or side box, but it’s not a big deal to buy a right angle cable shield to make this box work.
What you need is an old metal work box with adjustable clamps that hold the plate. There is cheap plastic and better quality metal you need pliers to get it right as the wires are not held as they should be. You can add clamps to 1 end and place the box in the hole and then attach the wings
The easiest way is to replace this box with one that has flanges on each end (and a bracket on the back for that flexible tube). Flanges have holes for #6 cap screws.
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Drill a small pilot hole* for each of the four screws through the plastic and into the wood, and simply screw them into the wall.
You will need a metal strip behind the drywall and then fold it into the box to hold it in place.
You will need to remove the plug to make room for the folding tab on the metal case.
While you’re at it, you’ll need clamps to secure all the wires to the box. (There is only one line per knockout).
The Installer Installs An Electrical Switchgear In The House. Mounting The Fuse Box Inside The Electrical Cabinet, The Electrician Tightens The Bolt In The Neutral Terminal To Secure The Wire. Stock Photo,
If there is room to remove the cables from the back of the box, it is easy to slide them into the holes in the wall.
With the wire securely attached to the box, begin sliding the rod behind the wall and plaster. Now insert the box and twist the tab into the box. Reinstall the plug and you’re done.
If you don’t have any shielded wire, a new plastic rework box (Home Depot link) can be an easy fix.
We can’t see what the back of the wall is from your picture, but in the rare event that it isn’t another piece of drywall and instead something to drive screws into, the driveway behind the box it is thick enough to make it. The front of the box is flat on the front of the wall and then screwed to the other side of the wall. This isn’t something you can do often, but it has the advantage that you’re not relying on a weak wall to hold the box, so someone holding the cable at the wrong angle is less likely to collapse the wall to damage -the. plug
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By clicking “Accept all cookies”, you agree that Stack Exchange may store cookies on your device and disclose information in accordance with our Cookie Policy. Take inventory of your home’s electrical system and you’ll find wires, plugs, switches, circuit breakers, and boxes. An electrical box provides a code-approved location for connecting home wiring, whether it’s an outlet, switch, or splice. Read on to learn more about junction boxes and how to install one.
A junction box is an electrical box used to house splices. The junction box protects the internal connections, prevents possible electric shocks and prevents sparks from spreading into the flammable environment. There are two types of junction boxes: new work, installed where the wall framing is open, and old work, installed after the drywall is in place.
Each type is available in metal or plastic. Metal boxes are mainly used to hold metal tubes or shielded cables (BX). Plastic boxes are used to create non-metallic (plastic) shielded cables. The junction box is attached to the free wall space next to the drywall with a solid cover (no holes) exposed. A junction box can also be mounted on the outside wall, with a
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