How To Make Your Own Nightstand – I always love sharing new projects and even more collaborating with other great builders to showcase those projects and today is my second collaboration with Huckleberry Ridge Furniture and I'm excited to show you why!
In the past we worked together on Farmhouse X Desk and it was great. I mean just look, why? I really liked this table and now I have something else to read.
How To Make Your Own Nightstand
So we're back with a vengeance! Well, maybe that's too much; But we're back with another amazing 3D project, the Farmhouse Bedside Table; Or a side table if you prefer, and we hope you enjoy it! Gives me Joanna Gaines vibes.
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First, you will make the legs of the farmhouse nightstand by attaching the legs to the vertical pieces using a drill and the Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System. You will use 1 1/4″ socket head screws to secure the pieces. You will repeat this step twice so that you have two side pieces for the farmhouse nightstand.
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You can then attach the inner panels to the joint with wood glue using a drill and 1 1/4″ pocket screws.
Pocket holes should be drilled in the sides of the 1×8 and drilled in the 2×4. Repeat this step on the other side of the farmhouse nightstand.
Next, you will attach the two sides of the farmhouse with wood glue using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. .
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Once the stretcher pieces are in place, you will attach the wood pieces inside the farmhouse nightstand again using a Craig jig and 1 1/4 pocket hole screws. You will need to drill pocket holes in the sides of the 1×8 and it is sunk into the 2×4.
Now we start adding the pieces that will hold the nightstand drawers. We connect the 1×2 inside the night area. These 1×2's should be washed with the tops below. The 1x2s are then attached to the left and right sides of the farmhouse nightstand using wood glue and screws.
This 1×2 serves as a drawer support. If you choose to use drawer slides, feel free to skip this step and adjust the drawer size as needed.
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Next, you will add 1×4 boards to form the bottom of the farmhouse nightstand. When dealing with the outside corners of the nightstand, you will need to use your band saw or jigsaw to cut the corners of the left and right 1×4 and leave a gap between each board. for the boards to appear.
After the nightstand base is completely assembled, you will assemble the tophouse nightstand top and connect it to the nightstand base using tabletop Z fasteners or wood screws inside.
You will begin assembling the wires using a Craig Jig with 1 1/2″ 1 1/4″ pocket screws to attach with wood glue. Use your right hand drill to tie the boards as you drive through the pocket hole holes.
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Next, you will attach the drawer front to the box assembly using the pre-drilled pocket holes. After the drawer is assembled, it should fit perfectly with the 1×2 sec on the farmhouse nightstand. If you choose to use drawer slides, you will need to adjust the drawer slides correctly.
After building the drawers, you will start installing the 2×2 X brackets in the nightstand. It may be wise to first measure the 2x2s on the nightstand that is already assembled before making the braces to get the right fit. Measurements should serve as a guide only.
Now this is the fun part! Finish your nightstand with the color of your choice! Michael and Sarah used walnut paint with matte polycrylic for the top and cream Sherwin Williams for the bottom, and don't forget the cool drawer pulls for the front drawer.
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The farmhouse night scene is a must have! I really like this project and I hope you like it too. I look forward to seeing all your efforts with this build.
But I won't let you go without one look. Michael and Sarah really knocked it out of the park. I hope you enjoy these farmhouse nightstand projects, I can't wait to see what you come up with. Old House DIY expert and House One editor Jen Largesse shares how to put together a sturdy nightstand with easy woodworking.
The DIY projects that jump to the top of my list are always the ones that add functionality to our home. If a building promises to make good use of wasted space or bring order to a cluttered space, I feel more inspired.
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Preparation steps. Jen uses a hacksaw to cut the nightstand's 2×2 legs and its 1×2 slats. A table saw is good for cutting the sides and shelves, but a miter saw will work too. Tuna scoffed
So when I saw charger cords, books, and other things piling up on my nightstand, I decided it was time to create something that would provide more storage than I already had. have it now. And although the drawers are not considered an easy construction, the pocket hole assembly method I used provides a good solution for beginners.
Thanks to the large legroom, two folding tires and the bottom shelf, my nightstand is always neat and tidy when it's time to turn off the light. Next: What you need to know to make your own.
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Average overnight heights are usually 24 to 28 inches. While modern furniture design favors low side tables, I prefer a traditional nightstand to sit 1 to 2 inches above the bed.
Because next to my bed, I designed this side table to be 30 inches high; That way the reading light shines on my book and its switch is easily accessible. To raise or lower the nightstand, you can only change the height of the 2 × 2 legs, keeping the platform low from the floor.
Following the cutting chart above, cut the pieces lengthwise. Use the pocket hole template to drill two holes for the wires and the front and back ends of each 1×2.
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Make additional pocket holes on all sides of the plywood shelf and each drawer base, as well as on the top and sides of the plywood.
Place a 12-inch 1×2 between the two 2×2 legs, 12½ inches from the top of the legs. Attach it with glue and packet screws. Place the side of the plywood on top of the 1×2, with its bottom edges notched and its top edge supported; Attach the pockets with glue and screws.
Mark a line 5 inches from the bottom of each leg. Place a 12-inch 1×2 between the legs, supported by 3/4-inch blocks and flush with the inside of the legs. Using a bar clamp, secure it with glue and packet screws. Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the other side.
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Glue and fold a 20-inch 1×2 pocket square to the front and back sides of the plywood shelf, flush with its surface. (Plywood covers one of the two screw holes on each side.) On the other side of the flat assembly, face in, glue and screw the shelf with the top edge of the 1×2s . Turn the workpiece and repeat on the other side. Glue and wrap two 20-inch 1×2 crossbars between the sides, scraping the top 1×2s.
Place the workpiece face down on top of the plywood, in the middle of the top width and cut through the back. Drive the pocket screws and install them on top of the plywood boards. Iron on the veneer fabric to finish the edges; Additional rate.
Glue and drill the plywood to the bottom of the drawer from the front and back so that they are flush with the bottom of the drawer; Glue and turn the drawer sides down, front and back. Repeat. Sandblasting both assemblies and painting all parts.
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Separate the slides and place one piece inside each drawer, placed in the middle and cut to the front. Attach the appropriate parts to the workpiece. Insert the drawers, connecting the two parts of each slide.
Mark and drill holes for the pulls on the sides of the installed drawers, then attach them to the drawer fronts with screws through the pull holes. Drive the screws from the inside of the drawer, through the drawer fronts and into the used sides. Remove the temporary screws, drill holes in the drawer boxes and pull them out.
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