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How To Make A Round Table Base – I’m having so much fun playing in my kitchen today. I recently designed a new round table for our kitchen. And it all started with this beautiful and amazingly simple DIY table stand.
Hello Hello! Guys, I have been wanting to make a round kitchen table for several years. I thought that having a round table that breaks up all these square lines and straight lines would look better in our kitchen.
How To Make A Round Table Base
And I always think that small kitchen tables with legs in the corners are a little strange. You need to push the seat back far enough to clear your legs.
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Does anyone else find this offensive or am I just being lazy? No more pulling chairs for me. LAUGHING OUT LOUD.
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Another advantage of round tables is that 2 people can sit side by side. It is very important for our children.
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They no longer have to fight over who can sit next to them. Hooray again. Less than one fight is always a win for the parents, right?!
I cheated on this building! I used a finished table leg to get the look I wanted. But I changed the design, removed the legs and added thicker layers to get the look I wanted.
I took this photo from Osborne Wood after opening the box. Isn’t this wooden stand cute?! I love the design and they always use high quality wood.
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Using a prefab wood plinth center from Osborne Wood Products means that the DIY table base can have all the beautiful curves made with lathes and band saws, but I don’t have any of the expensive tools.
Osborne also makes great coffee table legs. I used these beautiful chunky coffee table legs to make a DIY Modern Farmhouse bench / coffee table.
Full disclosure, Osborne Wood Products sent me this beautiful chunky foot center for free. Well, let’s move on to this DIY pedestal table base assembly.
Round X Base Table
If any of the steps above are confusing, watch this short assembly video. Seeing someone do something always helps me understand the direction better. 🙂
However, you should sand to get a coarser grit and be extra careful to sand away excess wood filler or wood glue before painting.
THE FOLLOWING STEPS DO NOT INCLUDE Complete Steps. They are included here to give you a good idea of how this table is made. You can find all the building steps in the FREE printable blueprints available in my Gumroad store.
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Start by cutting 2″ x 6″ pine boards on your table saw to match the edges. It should work about 1/8″ on each side.
Then make 2 large 2″ x 6″ squares. Use a miter saw to cut the 45-inch corners. If your miter saw is not large enough to cut the wood cleanly, you can finish the cut with a circular saw or electric jigsaw.
I used Kreg Jig pocket holes and wood glue to assemble the squares on this DIY table stand.
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The clip-on wood glue alone might have been strong enough to hold the pieces firmly when dry, but I didn’t want to wait for the glue to dry before continuing.
Now make 2 small 2″ x 6″ squares. Use the same steps to cut and join the smaller pieces of wood.
Sand all surfaces with 150 grit before proceeding.
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Finally, cut 2-3/4″ squares from wood, MDF or plywood. They won’t be visible, so feel free to use whatever you have on hand. These squares add some height to this wooden table.
Glue and screw one of the small 1 1/2″ thick pine squares into the base of the Osborne wood plinth. Countersunk screws – use 2 1/2″ screws to insert them from the small plinth to the Osborne pedestal.
Make sure it is centered before twisting together. Also, make sure the screws are within about an inch of the small 3/4″ square base of the pedestal.
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Using glue and screws to attach the pedestal to the squares makes this DIY pedestal base strong enough to withstand decades of use.
Now glue and pin the larger 3/4″ square to the bottom of the smaller 1 1/2″ square. You are now ready to add the subframe. Countersink 4 holes under a large square.
This time use 4-3″ screws to attach the large square to the bottom. Again, make sure everything is centered.
Two Tone Farmhouse Dining Table
They can be 3-inch screws, 3-inch Kreg screws, or 3-inch #8 self-tapping screws. These screws are long enough to go under the squares, in the middle and on the top.
Carefully measure where the screws will go to make sure they are within an inch of this square. These screws add strength to the DIY standing desk base.
You can see better how I put the pedestal pieces together in the video and in the print plans. This is a close up view of the lower parts of the plinth base. You can see the 1 1/2″ square on top of the 3/4″ square. And they fit in a large 1 1/2 inch square. Once I started gluing and nailing the crown to the plinth of this do-it-yourself round kitchen table.
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First, loosen and remove the bolts attached to the base as sent by Osborne. Then glue and nail a small piece 3/4″ thick to the top of the plinth.
Make sure it fits the edges of the pedestal. Next, glue and glue the 1 1/2″ thick sides to the top of the plinth.
Countersink the 4″ to 3″ screws to make sure the screws properly attach this square to the small Osborne Wood square base.
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Carefully measure where the screws will go to make sure they are about 1 inch inside this square 8. Then glue and then glue the 1 1/2″ thick square to the top of the 3/4″ square.
Countersink the 4-2″ long screws to make sure the screws connect this 1 1/2″ square to the 3/4″ square.
Carefully measure where the screws will go to make sure they are within an inch of this square. That’s all it takes to build this DIY wood table base. Hurray!
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Now it’s time to add the trim and moldings. This part of the table structure was inspired by a photo on @Hammerari’s Instagram account.
I stumbled upon this by accident while trying to find examples of other people using pedestal casting. You may know him as the master carpenter on HGTV’s Windy City Rehabilitation Center.
Before we begin, let’s talk about carving. You can find PVC or MDF versions of some of these sills. BUT, I would recommend using wood in this case because it is stain resistant, durable, and easy to sand and gives a nice smooth finish.
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I love sculpting and modeling as much as I love chocolate. And that’s a lot guys! That’s why I use it often and practice a lot with it.
If not, take your time and double check all measurements before you buy. I think it’s easier to cut and attach one piece at a time. Then measure and add the next one. My haircut is usually perfect.
The decoration at the top of this plinth is slightly lighter than the bottom. I wrapped two rows of different colors over the pedestal.
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DESIGN NOTE: I chose the bottom size so that it looks nice and sturdy, not too small to go over the top easily, and also not so big that our feet can’t fit under the table. I added a 42″ round top to this standing desk.
I think this pedestal size will work with 41″ to 44″ round tables. If you want a bigger table, I increase the size of the squares so that the table doesn’t collapse if someone doesn’t lean on the sides.
Next, I added several layers and moldings to the bottom of the base table.
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I used leftover beadboard style T&G boards from my DIY Kids Play Kitchen. If you don’t want to buy a pack of T&G sheets, you can replace them with anything like 1/4″ thick plywood.
That’s the bottom of this DIY table stand. You can find the skin I used, all the instructions and measurements for this build in the FREE printable building plans available in my store.
Hello smart friends! You can find DIY table base assembly plans by clicking the image below.
How To Make A Round Kitchen Table » Lovely Indeed
These plans are for personal use. It cannot be transferred or sold without my permission. If you have any questions please let me know and enjoy your build!
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