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There are several ways to cut a perfect circle. Whenever possible, I prefer to use a saw made for sawing. This is the fastest and easiest method and requires the least amount of setup. I didn't think it was wrong, but it was very cheap and easy to do. Watch this video for a quick and easy tutorial on how to do it yourself.
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I cut my circle larger than the wood I was going to use. My end table started at 32″, so I cut the melamine circle to 32.25″.
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There are many other ways to cut circles in your shop. I have a port from Woodhaven that works well. It takes a while to set up and is a bit messy. You can also imitate the Woodhaven tool and build it out of plywood, as April Wilkerson did in this great video. I've even seen people turn table saws into fancy circular cutters.
I use a quick dry vacuum for all epoxy table models. It seals the water tightly, but detaches easily when finished. Unlike silicone or construction glue, which cannot be removed from your model. For now, run a nice bead of nails around the perimeter.
Next, take your landscaper and attach #6 wood screws to the edge of the circle. A composite landscape. I have found that the border is the best profile edge for round table designs. It goes on evenly and easily, but best of all, it's extremely non-sticky. After all, I leave a residue, but probably not necessary for the lips.
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Add another pull bead to your pattern. Close the gap where the border of the landscape fits. Let everything dry overnight. Although it says 20 minutes to dry time, I leaked during premature ejaculation. So make no mistake, let it cure overnight.
I use an aerosol residue release spray. It works great with any epoxy, the only downside is that it becomes airborne after spraying. This means several things. One, to wear a mask. Two, cover your tree. You don't want to slide too much, except for anything over 20 feet. Residue release is not very sensitive. So you can pour it a day or even a week in advance without any problems. I sprayed the first coat, let it dry for 10 minutes, then wiped it off with a paper towel. Sometimes I'll also do a second light coat, but most of the time it's not necessary.
Now you are ready to pour the epoxy! For details on making a round epoxy table, watch this video:
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Scrap epoxy table, epoxy river table, epoxy art, eco-epoxy, round table, how to work with wood, how to make an epoxy table, epoxy molding, make a table, how to make a resin table, how to make a river table , epoxy table, living edge, say woodworking, epoxy liquid glass12 Comments As a woodworker, there is an ever-growing list of projects that I want to take on at some point in my career…and at the top of that list there is a resin river table top. Although resin river signs are made from time to time, one thing I've noticed is that most of these projects are done with industrial tools at big box stores. So I decided to build my own using power tools and hand tools found at your local home improvement store. Even better, I contacted my great friends at Bernzomatic to help make it happen and got to work!
Here's the thing…you don't need a fully equipped industrial workshop to make cool stuff. Originally, I wanted to create this project using three power tools (circular saw, drill, and sander), but I made a casting mistake and ended up using an electric hand planer. But if you can't keep your rubber under your tiles, you can use three power tools for this project!
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I also added black pigment to make the river look black. You can choose any color you want!
14. After making sure my tiles were level, I poured deep-cast epoxy into the river opening and all the cracks to be filled. Follow the instructions on your resin container for how deep you can pour at one time. I was a bit ambitious and my rubber shrunk when it cured, be careful!
15. After casting, I used a Bernzomatic B4500 heat shrink torch on large areas to remove as much foam as possible from the rod. This is important because I don't want to cure the rubber with bubbles inside.
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I then inspected the spill and at times had to use a Bernzomatic ST2200 Home and Hobby Detail torch while repairing the foam.
16. Because my jar was a little tight, I had to go back to the project a day later and repeat steps 13-15 until I was happy with my pour depth.
17. After the resin dried according to the label on the product I used, I removed the molding from the table top.
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18. At this point, I realized that there was a large leak in the bottom of the plate, so I used a hand planer to remove most of the rubber.
19. Then I used a sander to sand the rest of the table. I started with 120 grit sandpaper and went to 400 grit before finishing the table.
I can't believe I made this board using tools I found at my local home improvement store! Looks like it came from a legit woodworking shop!
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I can't wait to push the limits of my little shop and see what I can do! Until then friends… Hello! When we reviewed BigRep's flexible TPU filament, we found that the material works very well for making epoxy resin molds, and provided a tutorial on how to make them. Epoxy resin is cheap, easy to add colors and objects to, and a strong material, so combining it with 3D printing opens the door to all kinds of jewelry, decorations, figurines, and more. Today we are making geometric weights, so open your favorite CAD program because the first step is to model the model.
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I use Autodesk Fusion 360, but there are many 3D modeling programs that can handle the simple geometries we will be working with today. First, we will roll a three-quarter inch rectangle, although the molds can be deeper and deeper.
After drawing a square on top of our new box, we can project that square into the box at a narrow angle that meets the walls, and a pyramid as deep as the box.
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Then cut out a similar triangle in the box and do the same for the three-sided pyramid.
Next, draw a semicircle and rotate that shape on its axis to create a dome shape.
Finally, remove the extra material from the box. This will reduce material usage and print time, and make it easier to remove waste parts from the mold after drying.
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I used a thin press setting with a 0.12mm layer to produce the smoothest walls, which was very important for the dome. It is a good idea to use at least 30% top mesh with TPU as the material does not bond well; If the nose goes through large gaps with a rare filler, the upper surfaces will not come out strong.
As for mixing and pouring, it's pretty simple. To determine how much resin you will need, fill each mold with water, then pour the water from the molds into a measuring cup. This will tell you the total amount needed, but epoxy resin is divided into two parts that need to be mixed in equal amounts, so divide this number by the two parts to find out how much each part will use. I needed 20ml, so 10ml each of Part A and Part B, plus the gorgeous green pigments.
Now comes the hardest part: waiting a day for the gum to heal. Fast forward 24 hours and we are getting these!
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The 3D look made them a little harder to remove
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