How To Replace Thermal Fuse On Electric Fan

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Hi, I have three desktop fans whose thermal shields failed the durability test. I am trying to find a small blown fuse. Because it’s worth repairing where I live. But is there an alternative way to bypass it so hard to find? Note: Images are taken from internet. But it looks like my device.

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If you avoid using a thermal fuse it means that you are removing an extra layer of protection and exposing yourself to a fire hazard. Thermal fuses are pretty standard components and should work fine almost anywhere.

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As Nigel said it’s a bad idea to bypass the thermal fuses….in case something fails them and heats up from a short circuit in the motor windings. Bypassing a fuse can cause a fire. Cleaning is required if the engine overheats due to bushings/plugs. Instead of finding the cause of the overheating… the best advice is to replace the fuse instead of the bypass.

“If you see a cloud of smoke, the technician will quickly find the cause of the problem.”……..CTX 1985 Arcade Gaming Monitor Service Manual I assembled the triple fan that stopped spinning. Cleaned and oiled shaft bearings. Also replaced class capacitors. Done. But still won’t turn. “…What’s the harm in separating them? I will learn something from this….!” I was about to throw it away while thinking.

I asked some soldiers and got a short answer: “…there’s a heat shield built…” I’ve been surfing the internet for months. But I can’t find information on where the fuse is or how to change it. In the end I decided to sacrifice one fan and cut all the wires going to the coil.

(Note: I was able to find a replacement 2A 130deg for $1.50SGD from a local electronic component store. Unfortunately, no equivalent part number is available from Mouser, RS n Digikey.)

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Better to spend the money to buy a replacement fan and give someone who knows the broken one. We are dealing with 250VAC so be very careful. You do so at your own risk.

At this point I know you know and confirm that the timer and speed selector are working properly (ie the voltage is at the speed selector output (brown, orange and red wires)). Please refer to schematics and figures.

The colors of the wires used for my fan may differ from yours. So please note

3. Take time to trace the wires and note the color and location of the wires. It should be similar to the scheme above.

Close Up Of An Iron Motor From Home Cooling Fan And Testind Tools Lies On A Table During Repair In A Specialized Workshop. The Concept Of Repair And R Stock Photo

4. Connect point “A” to point “B” using spare wire to cut the fuse. In my case, “A” is the “neutral” blue wire on the terminal block and “B” is the gray wire on the large square capacitor.

When finished make sure your fans (of course, no propellers) are properly and securely placed. Because we will start

5. Connect and start the fan motor. If the fuse is bad the motor spins, mine happens, otherwise it’s possible that point “C” was used instead of “B” because you don’t know which pole it is, don’t worry.

6. Unplug the power supply, move point “C” to point “B” and restart the fan. If not rotated then probably a capacitor

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2. Loosen (or cut) the wires at the capacitor terminals and reconnect the capacitor. (of the same kind)

3. If the motor still does not turn over, turn on the fan. I believe the problem is with the motor windings. And it’s time to say goodbye to the fan.

1. To facilitate the replacement of fuses. We need to disconnect the engine from the control unit. By keeping the wiring harness as long as possible the harness has 5 wires that are connected to the motor housing. This harness starts from the motor housing by tracking. I found a ground wire there is a (green/yellow) and neutral (blue) wire that terminates at the terminal block, and three other wires (brown, orange, red) that terminate at the speed selector.

2. Disconnect the ground and neutral wires (do not cut them) from the terminal block. Connect the brown, orange and red wires to the speed selector. By marking the location first

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(You may notice that I cut 10cm of all the straps from the motor…big mistake…but that was a lot before I decided to do it!)

3. Use a flat screwdriver as a lever. Pry the engine compartment mounting bracket from the control unit.

5. Remove the metal housing screws. Gently remove the rotor and coil from the belt. Loose enough

6. Wrapped with thread and coated with some kind of varnish. We need to cut some parts (see “X” point in the picture) with a pencil knife or sharp scissors. Look for the bulge (where the fuse is) and note the end point.

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7. Carefully cut off the black casing to expose the wire-bound brown lock.

8. Run the blue neutral wire from the harness to the coil. You can see that the largest shell is the inner one. It is our goal to cut the thread that binds this collar.

9. This is a large, flat sheath with a fuse and another wire sheath. Use your fingers and press the sides to restore the shape of the pipe.

10. Fold, press and gently remove this cover. Then the heat shield will open. Keep the removable cover for later use.

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11. Note that a shielded cable is shielded to prevent electrical contact. The side slices of this shell are about 10 mm long, exposing the lead through this notch.

12. Cut as close to the fuse as possible when both covers are opened. This will give us enough space to solder the new fuse.

17. Attach the new fuse to the coil as cleanly as possible. Put back the black cover and close it again. Make sure no wire or black casing is protruding from the rotor area.

21. Replace the harness and reconnect the ground and neutral wires to the terminal block (for me I had to solder all the wires and insulate them with heat shrink tubing. I also had to disable the oscillator so it wouldn’t bump against each other)

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I didn’t use varnish to protect the coils and kept it open 6 hours a day for about 2 months.

I changed the timer to permanently disable the “on” option to prevent overheating. When using a timer mechanism, it breaks when there is no one in the room or when the fan is not used for a while.

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