How To Make Folding Table Legs Out Of Wood – Marilyn thought it would be nice to have a small folding camping table. A place to sit in our icy moccasins as we rest from the day’s activities. The table not only had to be folded, but also light. I think this simple design achieves both.
I used Poplar in this project to keep the weight down. You can use any type of wood you like. We also made ours out of 1/2″ and 1/4″ wood again for weight. You can use 3/4″ and 1/2″ to make it a bit more stable.
How To Make Folding Table Legs Out Of Wood
Drill a 1″ hole in the center of each leg. I glued the legs back on to help with alignment.
Xl Series Square Folding Card Table (38
On one set of legs, drill a 1/4″ hole centered on the spoke for one end. Drill a 3/8″ hole in the carriage bolt head.
Make a 1/4″ hole on each end. On one end of each piece, drill the hole 1″ in and 3/4″ down. On the other end, drill the holes 1″ down and 1″ in.
Cut six header pieces 2 1/2″ X 12″ X 1/4″. Depending on the exact length of our piece of wood, you may need to adjust the length of the header pieces to account for the width of the cut.
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Place the top pieces with a 1/4″ gap between each piece. Align and glue the table supports, centered 1 1/4″ from the corners, with the offset opening farthest from the top.
Assemble the non-notched legs to the table support at the end with the 1″ X 1″ hole using the 1 1/2″ bolts.
Place the head of the bolt far enough away from the table support to catch and hold the slot in the legs.
Diy Folding Table Plan
Tighten all nuts, but not overtighten. The tighter you make them, the more stable the table, but the more difficult it will be to bend it.
Now find an armchair, place your new table next to it and enjoy your favorite drink.
We hope you enjoyed this project and have success with it. Remember, if you ever have problems with our projects, just drop us a line and we’ll try to help. As we build each of these projects, we have a good idea of how to get through them. We also make many mistakes so we can help avoid them.
Pieces Folding Table Leg Bracket Self Lock Folded Feet For Extension Table
Visit our blog, www.review.wordpress.com, and sign up to be notified when it’s updated. Our newsletter is a monthly blog featuring woodworking projects, crafts, recipes and more. Today, we’re building a table that you can take to camp, the park, or the beach—or even use in your own backyard. You can add this table to your outdoor camping kit (ours includes citronella candles and a wooden camp stool).
Use a miter saw or handsaw to cut the casting to length and sand the cuts smooth (“How to use a handsaw”.) If you are using a handsaw, the miter box will help keep the cuts straight. We used a double pig. The light edges of the boards will give a nice look to the table.
Cut the ends of the double calves into 17 pieces each 20 3/4″ long and two pieces 17 3/4″ long. Casting the Ourhemlock from Metrie is quite smooth, but sanding the freshly cut edges and any roughness will give you a better result.
Outdoor Folding Picnic Table Build Plans
For the two-by-two wood, we cut two 28 1/4″ long pieces for the table rails and four 11″ long pieces for the table legs. You will need to cut and/or drill these leg parts, so wait to sand them until the other cuts are made.
Rail: Beveling a table rail is an easy way to elevate the look of the table—but it’s completely optional. You finish with a bevel cut at the bottom of both ends of the rail.
To do this, measure the ends of both rails in half (3/4″) and mark the spot. Use a bevel square to mark a line at a 45 degree angle to show a small triangle, and cut it when using a handsaw with 45 degree groove in a miter box if you have one.
How To Lock Folding Leg Up Posn?
Legs: Prepare all four legs in the same way by cutting off the two corners at one end and drilling holes near the other end. (See the diagram to see what this looks like.)
The top of the legs attached to the table rails should have “dog ears” so they can swing freely. Cut the corners as described below: Mark the ends of the legs at 1/2″ and 1″. Use a miter square to mark 45 degree triangles, then cut them out.
The other end (bottom) of each leg should be drilled for a cross brace with magnets that will hold the legs in a folded position when the table is stored or transported.
Standard Folding Table Legs 514xx
Find the center of the leg, measure and mark 1 1/2″ for the cross dowel support and 2 1/2″ for the magnets.
Drill a 5/8″ hole all the way to the cross brace. (To minimize the risk of splitting, drill halfway through one side until the drill tip fits, then flip the board over and finish the hole on the other side.)
Make a deep hole in the middle of the leg. We drilled a 5/16″ diameter hole about 3/16″ deep where our magnets will be glued in place. The magnets will line up with the side of the leg when glued in place later in [step 7].
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Although hemlock molding is not prone to cracking – especially when screws or nails are not placed close to the edge – we decided to play it safe and pre-drilled holes in each board.
Template: Since there are 19 boards to drill and 15 of them are identical, we made a template to mark where to drill. For the 15 identical tom mills, we cut one piece in two 1 7/8″ long and marked the center of the end to use as a guide.
Mark and drill a hole in the center of 15 of the longest boards 1 7/8″ from each end. For the two remaining longest boards, mark and drill.
How To Build An Easy Diy Folding Table (diy)
Holes spaced equidistant from each end (1 7/8″). Similarly, for the two shorter boards, drill two holes 3/8″ from each end.
Start by attaching the boards to either end of the table rails – these are the two long boards with four holes drilled into them. Place the rails on the table and attach the slats to each end of the rail. (We used 1 1/4″ screws.) The boards should hang 1 1/2″ beyond the side rails.
Tip: We made a fixture out of straight scrap wood, which allowed us to have the same straight edge for each board.
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Now that the end boards are in place, you can attach the rest of the boards. We use 5/32″ spacers to get even spacing between the boards and screw the boards in place.
You are left with two shorter boards: Turn the table over and screw these two boards into place at the far ends of the rails using four screws each. When you’re done, this is a good place in the process to stop and lightly sand any sharp edges, corners, or holes that need it.
In this step, you drill a hole in the rail and leg. A bolt in this hole will be what the folding leg hangs from. To install the legs, place them on the inside of the rail with the partial opening to the rail. Place the bottom of the legs (square ends) in the center of the table, leaving a 3/4″ gap. Now measure in from the end of the table to the top of the leg 3 1/2″ and mark a hole. in the train (centered up and down). Clamp the leg on the rail and drill a 1/4″ diameter hole in both the rail and the rear leg. Check the balance of the leg by inserting a bolt into the hole and opening the leg from the folded position. If it is tied, cut the top of the leg in desired point When the leg opens freely, secure it with the bolt, washers, and nuts.
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Tip: We used a carriage bolt for a cleaner look on the rail, but a hex bolt will work just fine. We also used a washer both in the nut and between the rail and leg. We chose a lock nut that holds its position and won’t loosen.
Cut a length of dowel for each pair of legs. Double check the distance between the outsides of the legs, but it’s probably 16 1/4″. Grind the ends of the dowels and insert them into the holes in the legs that you drilled in step two. To secure the dowel, use a little glue and we also recommend screw Pre-drill a 3/32″ hole in the corner.
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