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How To Build A Farmhouse End Table – Build a farmhouse coffee table for under $40 using only a drill and saw! This is a beginner-friendly DIY project that only takes a few hours to complete.
You’ll love the result—an absolutely beautiful farmhouse coffee table made of solid wood, perfectly proportioned with a large bottom storage shelf.
How To Build A Farmhouse End Table
Our most popular coffee table is the Rustic X Coffee Table. The design of this coffee table is very similar. The big difference is how it is made and the equipment required. The Rustic X coffee table requires a kreg jig. The Rustic X Coffee Table is a bit large. It also has a sturdy bottom shelf (instead of the farmhouse coffee table grill).
Side Table [modern Farmhouse Collection]
Yes! We’ve included matching farmhouse console table plans and matching farmhouse side table plans (two size options) here.
How to make this coffee table. Watch me do it in our Farmhouse Coffee Table video tutorial:
The plans for this coffee table are below. Please share a photo while you are building, we love to see your projects! I look forward to hearing how you get on.
Diy Modern Farmhouse Coffee Table
Place the first long X piece on the end of the coffee table and secure at the top and bottom with glue and screws.
Attach one of the 2×6’s @ 18″ to the center of the coffee table with two screws at each joint and glue.
Lay the 2×6 tabletop boards on a flat, level surface, preferably with the tabletop boards facing up.
Chunky Farmhouse Coffee Table Plans
Apply glue to the top edges of the coffee table frame and place the coffee table frame on the boards on top of the table top.
Attach the bottom of the table top boards to the base. Use not enough bolts, but enough to complete the next step.
Place the remaining slats inside the frame and secure with 2 screws at each joint. The distance is about 1 inch (slightly less).
Diy Farmhouse Coffee Table: Ikea Hack Makeover
Tip: If the bottom shelf of the coffee table is expected to bear a heavy load, place a piece of 1×2 about 20 inches long under the shelf, centered up to the coffee table. This will serve as the central “legs” of the shelf. And greatly increase the strength of the lower shelf.
Stain Finish: To apply the stain I sanded the entire coffee table with 120 grit sandpaper. I didn’t fill the holes (the screw holes are visible in the photo). We all agreed that the holes helped add character to the coffee table. If the screw holes are too tight for you, fill with wood filler of the appropriate color.
Painted Finish: Fill holes with wood filler and let dry. Sand paper with 80-120 grit. Remove all sanding residue with a vacuum. love and color This farmhouse side table post is sponsored by The Home Depot. I was compensated for my time and items. All thoughts and opinions are my own. This post contains some affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my full disclosure policy. Making a new farmhouse side table to go with my farmhouse coffee table has been on my to do list for a while. It’s good to finally check this off my list. I tried something new and got a zinc treatment on top. what are you thinking? Are you a fan of zinc countertops? I thought it would go well with the farmhouse style and it really wasn’t that difficult.
Mainstays Farmhouse X Design Square Side Table With Storage, Rustic Weathered Oak
I also added drawers to make room for remote controls, books, magazines, etc. Zinc Top Optional Materials 1 – 4 x 4 x 8″ Posts 3 – How to Build a Farmhouse Side Table with 1 x 6 x 8″ Boards (If you want to make a Zinc Top you will only need 1 – 1″ x 6″ ) x 8″ board) 2 – 1″ x 2″ x 8″ board 3 – 1″ x 4″ x 8″ board (if you don’t want to make the drawers, you will only need 2) 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws 1 1/4″ Bread Nail Wood Glue Sand Paper Paint/Stain – Color I used Linen White Paint, Stain I used Varathane Weathered Wood Accelerator, Kona and Pre- Used Stain Conditioner” or 5mm x 16 3/4″ x 21″ (Drawer Mounted) or 17 1/2″ x 21 3/4″ (Bottom Mounted) 1-22″ Drawer Slide Knob Zinc Top Option 1 – 36 ” x 48″ 30 gauge galvanized steel sheet metal construction adhesive backing 1 1/2″ x 27 1/2″ x 27 1/2″ (can be anything, plywood, particle board, MDF, 2×6) mater Use Saw Impact Driver Rudder Pocket Drill Drill Saw Offset Scissors – Zinc Op Optional Screwdriver – Draw Optional Brad Nailer Sander Tape Measure Table Saw or Saw Circular Saw – Driver Dado Alternative In this post I will review the Milwaukee 18v Brushless Impact Driver and Offset8 from Homeset8 Depot’s perspective program. CUT LIST 4 – 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 20 1/2″ – Legs (4×4) 4 – 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ – Sides (1 ) ×6) 5 – 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 27 1/2″ – Optional Wood Head (1×6) 8 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ – Side and Bottom Trim (1×2) 6 – 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 23 1/2″ – Bottom (1×4) 1 – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 18 1/2 – Bottom (1×4) 2 – 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 21 3/4″ – Optional Drawer Sides (1×4) 2 – 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 16” – Optional Drawer Front/Back (1×4) 1 – 5 mm x 16 3/4″ x 21″ – Optional Drawer Bottom 1 – 1 1/2″ x 27 1/2″ x 27 1/2″ – Optional Zinc Top Support Material Cutting Diagram Step 1 – Cut the Board and Drill the Pocket Holes 4-1 x 6 x 18 1/2″ Pocket Holes for the 3/4″ Material Board in Both Ends of the Side Boards). If you are making a zinc top, also drill a pocket hole in one side to attach the top. Drill pocket holes for 3/4-inch material in both ends of the 4-1 x 2 x 18 1/2-inch trim panels (if you drill pocket holes in the 5 trim pieces for the drawers). If making a drawer, drill 3/4-inch pocket holes for material in both ends of the 2-1 x 4 x 16-inch boards. Step 2. Assemble the legs and arms by locating the middle of the side boards and pinning them together (without pocket holes). Use wood glue and 1 1/4-inch nails to attach the trim to the side boards, as shown below. On each 4×4 leg, mark 1 inch out and 3/4 inch where the trim is. Use wood glue and a 1 1/4-inch hole punch to attach the sides to the legs. The sides should be indented by 1 inch. and match the “top” of the leg (I reverse this to make sure the sides are flush with the top of the leg.) If you’re making drawers, leave quarter sides. Attach the side of the leg with 1 1/4-inch through-hole screws. An impact driver is one of my favorite tools, especially in my pocket for removing screws. Drilling requires a lot of “work”. The Milwaukee brushless driver worked great. It’s also really light compared to some of my other effects tools, with a battery only 3.1 pounds. It puts out plenty of torque, up to 1,500 pounds, and the M18’s battery lasts forever. So far, I’m a huge fan. Measure and mark 1 inch from the bottom of each leg and 3/4 inch from the outside of the leg. Use wood glue and 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws to attach the 1×2 bottom trim pieces to the legs. If you’re making a drawer, mark 5 1/2 inches from the top of the leg and 3/4 inch from the outside of the leg. Attach the drawer trim with wood glue and 1 1/4-inch pocket-hole screws. Step 3 – Optional Drawer Assembly Skip this step if you are not making the drawer. Drawer Assembly – The Grandfather’s Method There are many ways to build drawers. I mostly use the dado method. Cut the dado on each of the 16-inch and 21 3/4-inch 1×4 drawer pieces several times with a table saw, router, or circular saw. Set the blade height to 3/8 inch and the fence to 1/4 inch from the bottom. Make several sides, adjusting the fence as needed, until you have 1/4″ wide x 3/8″ deep and 1/4″ from the bottom. 16″ dad on the opposite side of the pocket hole. location. Cut out the drawer. Bottoms 16 3/4 inches and 21 inches (or a hair less). Press the bottom of the drawer into the dado. Attach the drawer with wood glue and the 1 1/4 inch pocket hole. Drawer Assembly – An alternate method is to nail the bottom of the drawer. If you don’t want to cut the dado, the drawer is small and may
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