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How To Make Live Edge Dining Table – *sigh* I just don’t want to talk boy… I just want to watch. But I promised details…so here it is! This DIY side table with metal legs is the newest addition to our living room and our DIY appreciation book. In case you missed it, I shared the entire living room reveal on Wednesday, and it’s my favorite room in the house right now. I want to be in it…or watch it…all the time. And this table is like a star.
I always love the look of a metal table top, but the price? Not so much. I trusted everyone (before I built a table) and bought this wood (3 boards) for a steal at $90 last year, but let it sit and sit, because it’s scary to cook or when everyone comes. outside. So last fall, we designed and built a patio table out of wood, and we were really impressed with ourselves, so we gave it a go. Create a fall table, we have many tips to pick from what we put in it (like no dirty stones on the table for food to fall off!).
How To Make Live Edge Dining Table
Okay, let’s go. This table has two parts – the metal base and the wooden top. For the foundation, I sent a sketch and measurements to a metal fabricator where Shane works. They did an amazing job and finished within a week (SAVE fast!). These are called 4″ flat bars.
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I gave it a silly wire brush to get all the bits off and then gave it a few light coats of black paint. I used Rustoleum for this project (this is paint and it’s clear) because I’m buying it at Home Depot – just read the back and make sure it prevents rust. After doing this, I wiped it off (flat paint seems to leave a residue that you can wipe off), then sprayed it with clear flat paint to seal it in (especially where it hits ). The best thing is the leather, but I did it to save the mold in the first place, so it’s not a question for now. Also, by going directly to a factory and not a foot company… and skipping the rubber band, I saved a ton.
We told them not to drill holes in the bottom because we wanted to make sure the holes didn’t go into the wood seams. We used some scrap metal (thanks to some engineer friends) to make ours. The picture has no signs at all. To install the brackets, be sure to drill small pilot holes before inserting the brackets. Measure the clamps according to the metal you are using.
For the top, here’s the fun part. We didn’t get a good picture of the wood before we cut it! Please the picture is far from my phone. I cut my kids with their eyes half open and that was it. This is the same cedar we used for our deck. For this table, I have three pieces of wood, two with strong edges, one with straight edges on both sides. I put it together by drilling the pocket holes with our trusty Kreg Jig (I just need to get some screws for that), then using the wood glue before drilling these. The best thing (again) is recording, but we don’t have the right tools for that. I used several brands and it was very solid.
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I let it dry for 24 hours, then cut it to the perfect length (I did 6 1/2 feet) before I composted. For sanding, I started with 40 grit paper on the belt sander, working up to 180 on a palm sander. I just use a palm sander and sand paper in my hand on the working end. When the sand was right, we thought of cracks and voids.
The wood is old, dry and split. That’s what makes it so interesting, but after we had a patio table with small spaces for food (and playdoh) to get out of, I ended up cleaning up the corners and edges of the table. every day. Shane did some research online and after tweeting with Rustoleum, we decided to fill the gaps and bond with epoxy, sand, then apply a water based clear coat.
We went to Home Depot for the third time this weekend (I never bothered to walk out with a couple of screws or a can of paint) and was pointed out. in Varathane Bar and Table Finish (this is an epoxy resin that is not sold on Amazon, so here are the product details). I mixed it up in small batches to pour into the big holes and (you laugh) but used a baby formula (you know, because you don’t get one in every tylenol box) to put it in small cracks. It worked like a charm, my friends. I used a squeegee to slide it out and pull most of the stuff out of the gaps. There are two applications (one per day) but there are still a few things to continue to use! There was very little left, it was hard to get food there. I want to show you how good these things are. It’s close to the big hole in the table, it’s a big split in a knot and it’s not food but it’s very nice. Well, you can run your fingers over it and it’s very smooth (and completely transparent). Total points.
Rustic Dining Table
When the epoxy hardened, I used sandpaper (220 and 400) to clean it up. There were a few places where I used a spray paint to remove the moisture (oops). It took a while to get it perfect again, but when I did – no gaps – perfect, so it was totally worth it! I read that epoxy is very difficult to use and I think it’s true, but it’s not if you’re patient and careful with it. But I didn’t flood an entire shelf, just filling in the cracks, so it was forgiven. I thought that pouring more into the holes also helped the table to gain strength.
Once the epoxy was completely dry, I continued with our favorite clear coat – Varathane Crystal Clear in Satan. It’s water-based so it’s breathable (yeeeesss) and I really like the non-shine finish that satin gives. I made about 6 tables before I took these photos, but honestly, we plan to make more because we have kids who love to poke tables with their forks.
The last thing to remember is if you are using old wood and there is no boat to ensure that it adds height. You will get to the top shaking a little. I used buttonhole fasteners on the fasteners that were a little loose. We decided to do this instead of forcing the wood flat because the top is very even and we didn’t want to risk ruining the seams we worked so hard to fill!
Live Edge Black Epoxy River Dining Table W/ Crystals
That’s it, that’s it. Oh! And I have to tell you that since these legs are not attached to the bottom of each other, it can be a little tight when you press it too long. But how often do you push it long? Shane really wanted to add another piece of metal that ran down between the legs, but I wasn’t sold. If we do this, you can dance on this table all night and it won’t move, but I’m a little camper, I’d rather have a nice table than dance up. I will update you when we decide on that!
P.S. Our living room table is decorated with AMAAAAZING plastic chairs (Henrik Chair) from the Canadian Tire Canvas line (I definitely love it) and a bright light (Elise Chandelier) as well. Are there any Canadians out there who are excited to get their hands on something cheap but really amazing? Get all the resources from our dining room in the original post here. The design and decorating trend of recent years has been about ‘green’. It’s not just DIY projects that help with reuse and recycling, but also furniture that conveys a more natural, natural vibe. natural, and sustainable. If there is one area that exemplifies this situation, it is undoubtedly the living table. Tables with natural edges are great centerpieces that immediately catch your eye and give modern interiors a more cozy and natural aura. And put the bag inside
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