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Do you dream of becoming the king of the cul-de-sac? Or how about Lord of the Lawn? If so, you need a throne! We built a Game of Thrones inspired iron throne for our medieval themed Halloween party. It’s by no means a match-for-match replica of HBO, but it was a real hit. It is made of simple materials and takes time to assemble. Definitely worth spending 30 UAH for an official copy!
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Our main requirements were a throne of a respectable size and enough weight and durability for party guests (some in costume) to pose with during the evening.
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I built it over the course of three weeks (although anyone could reproduce it in at least half the time) with roughly the following materials:
You can certainly build a complete throne from scratch, but you’ll save time by starting from a chair. I found a plastic Adirondack chair that was a great starting point, cheap (under $15) and lightweight. The prominent vertical slats on the back fit the shape we’re looking for and are a good base to build the tall and bulky armrests.
With the basic chair selected, I was able to start sizing up the entire project in terms of gross height, width, and depth. Since you really don’t want to see anyone sitting on the Iron Throne, I decided to build a throne platform in a few steps.
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Remember: if you’re not building it on site, it’s really important to keep things modeled or modular so you can walk in the door later! In my case, the throne can be separated from the platform, and the throne *only* can be tilted to fit through a 36″ door.
The platform was framed with 2×4 lumber, with a cross member and additional support where the legs of the rear seats (with most of the weight) would rest. The legs were attached to 2×4 and 2×2 and 1/2″ plywood.
Since the Adirondack leans back a bit, I added a 2×4 behind the platform to raise the legs of the rear seats. I also added some extra supports to support the back of the chair as it is quite flexible.
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I then used a ruler to draw some of the main shapes of the throne. Sticks are a great building material because they are straight, strong, and inexpensive—they cost about 70 cents at a home improvement store.
I used short, flat head screws to attach the gauges to the seat, making sure to always point the screw points away from the seating surfaces. I raised a stage from the vertical slats of each seat, many of which would later become sword handles.
I widened the shape of the front leg and used some 2x4s to attach more sticks to the bottom. I also started with a pair of intersecting criteria on the sides of the seat (inside and outside).
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This existing seat back will become a downward facing sword. I cut strips of pink foam insulation and nailed it to one end of the indicator to start making the liquids. The thickness of the foam (1/2 inch) makes it conform to the seat surface. In the area of the sword handle I cut it to the width of a standard.
On each side of the back of the chair, we’ll have our first pair of swords pointing up. Same routine here: Roughly cut the foam off the cone and stick it two feet forward.
I then repeated these steps to glue the foam to the back of the template. The foam was cut for the swords on the bottom to match the seat back. There would be a small gap (gauge width) between the front and back pieces of foam, so small strips were glued to fill it. In the later pictures you can see how the sanding process begins to shape the handle and blade areas. There was a lot to sand at this point, but the electric palm sander helps a lot.
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I also started adding pieces of foam for the handle guards. For most of them I left the back half to the guards as they will have another layer of swords behind them. In the photos you can also see how the foam is starting to be coated with latex paint (to be sealed later with spray paint).
From there, it’s just a matter of adding more slat shapes to fill in the open spaces on the side and cover the seat surfaces. I used a few different ingredients for this.
First I found some wide metal binding straps, which I wrapped around my arms in several places. It’s a strong metal, so along with the criteria, it helped add a framework to build on. It is possible to cut yourself. The metal wears off so I taped it around the armrest.
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Next I cut a bunch of strips of craft foam – 1/8″ or so thick is fine here – about 1″ to 1.5″ wide. I started with simple rectangular strips, but then cut a thin tip into them. This is craft foam that wraps around the shape of the chair. And it’s a great accessory because it’s knitted and can be easily glued. Plus, even if you add it to all surfaces of the chair, the chair will remain comfortable – this comfort is not truly an Iron Throne specialty.
Then I needed some swords on the face to look better than just strips, so I wanted to create some pink insulating foam. The four swords on the front of the chair are short, but made like the back of the chair.
Then it was about filling things up more and more. Change the direction of each piece, but follow the lines of the seat when possible. The TV throne has no open spaces as you can see, it’s just solid swords, but I decided to stick with that, carving out some time but avoiding it turning into a big hole.
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With the sides and front of the seat well padded, I needed to finish the seat and back of the seat with several layers of foam and most importantly add a row of slats to the top to complete the iconic look. I decided to add 7 blades that stick around the top, placing them between each of the foam swords I made earlier. Here again you can go crazy and make a few tens, but it was a good number without crowding things too much. Here again I spent a few hours with Pam Sander to shape everything.
Added wooden shells to give knobs to front swords. They are attached with screws from the bottom of the seat arms.
Before the next painting step, I used a bunch of latex glue to fill any gaps around the entire project. This worked well to blend the layers to get a melted look.
Ways To Build A Diy Throne Chair: Do It Yourself
The entire seat was then spray painted, making sure all the foam insulation was covered first. First a full coat of dark gray primer was applied. I then followed with a coat or two of “steel hammer” paint. The forged paint doesn’t add much texture to the throne, but it does give uniformity to all the different materials used.
Added gold and copper tips to actuate the bar and handle guards. These were mostly just a wash to add character without being too bright.
A thin layer of black was applied to darken the sword hilts and better define all the foam edges and give more dimension to the layers. I brushed on an oil based aluminum paint to add some accents to some of the blades. It’s subtle, but the extra metallic finish catches a little more light.
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And there is much more. The chair was placed on top of the platform and I lowered the two back legs so it wouldn’t move. All together it reaches over seven meters in height.
Not only is the Iron Throne set gorgeous, but you’ll have tons of great photos of your party guests posing on it! New: Brand new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in original packaging (where you read more about packaging conditions) New: Brand new, unused, unopened item in original packaging (where packaging applies). Packaging must be the same as found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging,
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