How To Make A Solid Wood Table Top

How To Make A Solid Wood Table Top – First, I organized one side of my house of stuff. I then scratched the other side of the jointer/planer.

With two sides flat and perpendicular to each other, I drew the third side on the table saw.

How To Make A Solid Wood Table Top

In the end I put all the boards through the thickness planner and my stuff was flat and square.

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I then trimmed the boards so that I liked the look of the grain. After that I added the stretch marks and also the cookie marks.

I used my cookie cutter to cut out the cookie nests. The cookies keep the tiles from sliding during the gluing process.

I glued it in three parts. That way I didn’t have to worry about the glue drying. And I think it also helps to attach the pieces nice and straight. I also used some pieces of wood to keep the glued parts from bending.

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Once the two parts are done they are glued together. I also like to wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth. This saves me time in sanding.

Once my top was made, I used the circular saw and guide bar to cut it to its final size.

I then sanded the top sides with the surface of the block. Finally I sand everything with 120, 220 and 320 grit.

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I finished the piece with a water base, clear satin varnish. I applied several coats (about 5) and sanded between coats with 400 grit. I also like to use my heat gun to speed up drying.

I finished the first floor. Then I scraped the surface of the metal table. To keep it from splitting, I first drilled holes for the driver and then nailed the wood in place.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, which means I receive a small commission at no cost to you when you click and make a purchase. He saw one of our coffee tables on our website and liked how it looked on the wood. The upper part is made of oak wood, with continuous slats. The shelves were also wide enough so that they could easily be seen on top of each other.

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After determining with the client how the table surface should look, we agreed on a width of 4 cm and I started work.

I had to drive several hours to buy good pieces of oak, 5 cm thick and 1.1 m long. I have to admit they were pretty in the middle, but that’s the way of native oak, so I couldn’t do it. Because of the breakage, I had to buy more wood than I needed to make sure I didn’t have to drive another 50km for another small piece.

I also did a little sawing on the boards, to simplify the work of the carpenter and to save a little wear on the knives.

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Then I went to the step where the most important change happens: balancing all the boards on their four sides. When I planned it, I placed them next to each other, until I reached the required width of the table, 75 cm to be clear. Why 75 cm? Because the tabletop needed to be 70cm wide, but I added a safety margin, to make some adjustments before putting everything together.

We set the boards aside to see if they were wide enough for the oak table

With the necessary boards prepared, I realized that I had two pieces left of a total of 7, which means I bought about 40%. It’s not bad after all, because I still have little oak things.

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We started comparing the boards, paying attention to the flaws in the finish, which are not allowed in the final board, and the grain of each board, so that the final look is as good as possible.

Straight oak planks are placed side by side to define the size of the wooden table.

After matching the boards, I drew lines to guide me in cutting each board. I decided to cut them at 83 cm for a final length of 80 cm, to avoid the small damage to the bottom of the boards, usually caused by planers. Unfortunately, the main planner is not very accurate and still shows a bit of sniping in the first and last 5cm. Luckily I saw a hidden crack in one of the boards and was able to fix it before cutting the board. I erase the pencils first so there is no risk of making a wrong cut. Before removing them from the table so I could use the saw, I took the time to name each one so I could keep the order and pattern selected.

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After cutting off the broken or excess edges, I had to do something I didn’t want to, but couldn’t do without: I had to set up the planer so I could fix the imperfect edges. It was also time to grind all the boards to the same thickness. I made them 4.4cm thick to leave a gap to adjust the pan after the glue had dried.

I put everything back and looked for possible gaps between the boards in the middle of the panel, if there were bent boards. It wasn’t good, but I saw some places at the bottom, which indicated convex curvature. I secured one of the ends with a tie and saw a hole on the other side of the panel. If it is 1 – 1.5 mm, it is not a problem, it can be adjusted by tightening. But in one of the nodes the distance was more than a few mm, so I had to make another pass with the planner.

Once everything was sorted, I thanked myself for leaving a gap and moved on to the climb.

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For this board, a bond strength of up to 2150 kg (6 kg/sq cm, as indicated in the polyurethane adhesive instructions) was required. I calculated the clamp force up to 500kg, so since I only had 4 straps to work with, I figured it’s no problem if the total force is somewhere around 2000kg, as long as it’s planks. PRINTING

I spread the glue using a trowel so that it covered the edge of each board (I forgot to take pictures at this point, but it is clear that it spread in a way that fell to the sides) and secured the panel with four clamps . In addition to these constraints, I used beche runners to accommodate height differences. At 11 o’clock I closed the last lid and let the pan sit until the next day as the glue bottle clearly states to avoid processing for 8 hours after closing.

After several years of using this method, we have designed and manufactured our own 4-way panel beams to reduce the time spent drying and polishing oak wood. You can find the freeware here in their dedicated post.

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A new day, a new step – the most fun: turning a bunch of wood into a real table.

I removed the excess glue with a very sharp spatula (chisel-like cut) and did some orbital sanding with 50-grit sandpaper.

The counter came out great, except when I ran my hand over it, it felt uneven in the two rows that joined. So I took the router and used the straight lap I had just made. Although the photos seem to show a large difference between the cuts, it is very small and after a pass with 50 grit sandpaper, everything was as it should be.

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Another step (I also forgot to take pictures this time) was to cut it to the final size. I used a piece of melamine board with two straight edges cut at 90 degrees and a hand held circular saw.

I agreed with the client to have the ends turned and closed. Apart from aesthetic reasons, since it would be a table, it is important that the edges are not sharp, to make the finish as long as possible. For the rounding I used a router with a rounded router and a bead router, but for the curved edges below I only had to use a vibrating sander, with 40 grit sandpaper on it (looks like a grater, but with a base textile).

After I finished the medium sandpaper, 120 grit, I moved on to the joints and small screws that attach them. I used it

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