How To Make Rockers For A Rocking Chair – Since moving to the country, April Wilkerson has decorated her outdoor living space with plenty of seating options. Texas DIY has a chair for every occasion. So far, he has built and designed a Western Red Cedar Adirondack Chair, a tall Adirondack Chair, a two-person porch swing, a one-person porch swing, and recently added a rocking chair to the mix.
“It's very simple in design and construction, but it's sturdy and very comfortable,” he says of the classic swing, which he built using one of his favorite high-performance building materials. “I chose western red cedar because it's a naturally durable material, but it's also very light and allows the finished chair to be easily carried and moved.”
How To Make Rockers For A Rocking Chair
It is also an environmentally friendly construction option. In fact, real wood like cedar leaves the smallest carbon footprint of all building materials. With that in mind, he started with six 1 x 6s of beautiful, reclaimed real cedar and began designing the seat using 3D modeling software. He then cut and redrew some custom templates to make the job easier. Then it's time for this producer to do it!
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Below are 10 key construction tips for this project. Watch the full video above for more detailed instructions. Step 1 – Prepare the wood
Use a jigsaw to cut the pieces before running each piece over the planer.
“It will cut down on your next sanding time dramatically,” Wilkerson says. “Ever since I set up my cell phone, I'm always moving it to the storefront so it doesn't get messy!”
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Join the pieces with a waterproof glue specially formulated for wood and outdoor use. Make sure both of the corner pieces are even and taper them together before collapsing them.
“I repeated these steps to make sure the first one was glass and not the same,” Wilkerson said.
Cut the boards to length. Then cut the strips with a table saw. Then round all the edges for a softer look.
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“I loaded all my slats onto my mobile workbench and took them to my router table, where I used a 1/2” end mill on the two long edges.
Use a small amount of glue under each line at the two connection points. Then fasten each joint with stainless steel screws.
“I started with the largest back line on the plinth, then jumped forward and worked my way back from there,” he says, adding, “I cut a gap to make the alignment go faster.”
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Lay the bench down and start cutting the boards to width on the table, then use a miter saw to cut the boards to length and width. Note: The woodwork for this rocker is semi-finished.
“I used two boards cut to different lengths and joined them together to create a half circle,” Wilkerson said. “If I had used more cedar pieces, I would have cut them in half to make this joint.”
This part has a lot of weight, so when doing this, angle your jig to get as straight a grain of rocker length as possible. Make sure the bottom curve is free of any snags, and before attaching them to the legs, tighten all parts, place them on the ground, and test their swing abilities.
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NOTE: Wilkerson was actually sitting on the bench in this episode. Real Cedar does not recommend sitting in a chair during this testing period.
Whether you follow April Wilkerson's exact suggestions or customize the swing to your own liking, one thing you'll find is that Western Red Cedar is a joy to work with, it's really straightforward, and the tools love it.
“For this piece, I put down wood glue, attached the short legs to the legs, and made sure everything was flush,” Wilkerson said.
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“At first I thought about doing a bit of blind doweling to attach the arms to the legs, but after the screws on the seat came out, I thought they'd mess up as well,” he said. Of course, wiping it down and putting it under the skin gives it a pleasant sensation. Then I drilled a hole in the back and secured it with a load screw.”
Western Red Cedar is resinous and resin-free, so it accepts and retains a variety of finishes. For minimal maintenance, you can let your chair grow naturally.
“I think western red cedar is beautiful, so I'm going to apply a clear coat to preserve its beautiful color,” Wilkerson said. “In case you didn't know, western red cedar is naturally rot-resistant, so it's a good material if you're planning on placing your chair outdoors.”
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The April Wilkerson Classic Cedar Chair is timeless and perfect for sipping lemonade on the porch, or if you're expanding your family, it's the perfect sweet addition to any kid's room. If you want to make your own, find a real cedar dealer near you. It will be another place for Wilkerson to relax with his pets. I wanted to make a rocking chair for my wife. But now I really think I'm going to make another one for myself. This is my first time making a rocker and I'm very happy with how it turned out.
Here's the full step-by-step video. Check first.
First, you'll need a template to design the rockers. I just took a 15 x 5.0 x 90 cm piece of wood and cut a curve on one side. If the cut is symmetric, we don't care how big the curve is.
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The error will require 6 strips of wood 3.0 cm wide, 0.8 cm high and 6 cm long. Apply wood glue to all the strips of wood and place them on the template. Press the staples with the sacrificial strip. You should make two such parts.
After preparing the parts, you need to make the joints that will attach to the legs of the chair. Vents should be 5.0 cm from the edge of each crib. I used a special machine for this job, but you can always use a knife and hammer and you'll get the same results. The car does nothing but accelerate slightly.
Cut 4 pieces of wood 80 x 2.5 x 7 cm for the four legs. Make a dowel for each leg on the band saw. This hook should fit the rockers on the mortar.
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Time to add seat support. Again, we'll use the mortar and pestle method to put the pieces together.
The seat post is another piece of wood, as are the legs. Place the legs at an angle and mark the area where you want to make a mortar. Again, using the knife, build the seat support. Glue all the pieces together using wood glue and staples. Allow the glue to dry overnight.
Support rails must be added to assemble the two parts of the seat. I used two pieces of wood 60 x 2.5 x 7 cm for the front and back walls. I used a mortar and pestle technique for the front and 10mm dowels for the back.
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I made a 80 x 60 cm frame for the back and drilled it to fit the top and bottom pieces. Using a router, the circle edges are 0.8 x 4.0 x 73 cm. and slightly round.
Use approximately 10mm dowels and a 10mm screw bit to attach the backs as shown in the pictures.
For the seat I used a piece of 30mm thick wood board available in the workshop. It is solid and is the type of wood I use. I only had to make it 55 x 60 cm to fit between the seats. Then I used a few screws to secure it in place.
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My original idea was to make the arms slightly curved, but then I thought that a curved arm looks better too, and a straight arm is better. So I used 50 x 7.0 x 2.5 cm pieces of wood. Forming them into a ball, he made two slots for the back of the seat. After I made these places, I didn't need to add more support rails to the back. I rounded all the edges with a router and attached them with wood glue and wood dowels.
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