How To Make A Table Top Without A Planer – Everything you need to know about how to use a circular saw to cut and stain 2″ x 6″ pieces of wood into a large log table top. No decorative cuts or other saws required. You’ll also learn how to mix stains and colors to get the right color and finish you want to achieve on your wood.
You might be wondering why your kitchen needs a new dining table after you recently painted the top to look like it’s made of zinc.
How To Make A Table Top Without A Planer
I like that the zinc coating comes off, but when there are more than 4 people at the table, I want a bigger table.
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The size of the round table is 46 inches, and when the plates are set, there is very little room for eyeballs and dishes.
The dining room in our previous home had a plywood table extension placed right above the table when more than 6 people needed to be seated. It’s a great option to have.
My kitchen dining area is 8 feet by 10 feet, so I knew a slightly larger baking sheet would be good.
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My dining area in the kitchen is square, so a round table works better. You could use a square, but that would add straight lines and make walking awkward. Circular shapes are easy to fit in and add a slight contrast of shape to all the straight lines in your cabinets and walls.
Round tables can also improve communication and form when playing board and card games in groups.
I prefer a pedestal to a round table, or a pedestal like mine is in the middle and doesn’t have legs on the edge of the table so you don’t have to get in the way of the chairs or have to step over the legs.
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After looking at a bunch of new round tables, I decided that I really liked the table mats on my table, not the size of the table top. I like the space to look bigger because the pedestals don’t take up much visual space and you can see through them.
Instructions for making a circular wooden table from 2″ x 6″ planks can be made in any diameter. For my instructions, I listed the amount of lumber and pocket screws needed to make a 60 inch diameter round wood table. Adjust the amount of lumber and screws needed to match the size of the table you need. Please.
If you don’t have a table stand like me, you can easily make one yourself. In the link below, check out the how to make a round table video I watched on how to make a round table out of wood Find tips for
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Video with a simple DIY circular saw jig, but I used a 2″ x 6″ board instead. There was no need to add extra thickness around the outer edge of the table as they did.
A very simple first step in creating a table. If you haven’t heard of this ingenious little tool, check out the video: How to use the Klegg R3 Jig System
2. Wear goggles and use different objects to hit the good side of each board. You can find anything with sharp or rough edges such as hammers, 7-in-1 tools (not pictured), metal chains, wood screws and awls.
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3. Place the chain on the board and hit it a few times with a hammer. Place the wood screw on the board and push it down hard with your foot and roll it over the wood in several places. Pluck the wood with an awl to create a simulated wormhole. Repeat the process randomly on all boards.
3. After pressing each panel, use 100 grit sandpaper along the edges of each panel to round the edges. Repeat for each panel.
2. On both sides of each panel, mark the direction in which you want the pocket holes to be created. Space them about 6 to 10 inches apart. Each panel must have the same number of pocket holes in each direction. Here, make pocket holes for the screws to go through diagonally to attach the panels to each other.
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Note: Make sure that the table is not screwed where the circular cut is and that the board on the outer edge of the table is the same width on both sides so that it is symmetrical. If you want to check, place the boards side by side and align them together. Find and mark the center point.
Drilling all the pocket holes is easy, but two people makes the job faster. One person runs the template through each arrow and the other person drills the wood.
2. Evenly align the edges of the first and second boards and screw one pocket screw into each hole. This will keep the two boards snug against each other. When screwing, make sure that the boards are parallel to each other on the floor.
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3. Repeat this process for each board, making sure the holes and screws are on both sides of each board.
4. After installing each panel, make sure the top surface is flat. As the peak gets bigger, it becomes harder to see.
2. Find and mark the center point of the table. Make a template so that you can screw one end into the center of the table and the other end to hold the circular saw mounted on the diameter of the table.
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3. Push the saw around the table. The wood loosens with each pass. The shape is not yet round, but will eventually become round. It’s really cool to see how this setup works.
4. When the rough cutting of the table is complete, repeat this process until the table is round. It took me three times as long.
2. Sand the surface with 100-grit sandpaper to smooth the top and rough edges of the wood.
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3. If you want a messier look, use the tip of the 7-in-1 painting tool to raise the edges around the table top. Note that some of the previous attachments may have been clipped when the top was cut into circles.
4. If using water-based products on the wood, after sanding, remove the sand and spray the surface with water. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe it off with a clean, lint-free cloth. Wait for the table to dry completely, then sand it again with 220 grit sandpaper. Clean the abrasive grains.
5. Apply one coat of water-based pre-conditioner. Let it sit in the wood for about 5 minutes, then wipe off the excess.
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I glazed the color spots to make them more transparent and remove the excess, giving me more time to apply more if needed.
To make the stain glaze: I used equal parts stain paint, glaze, and water. I mixed it well in a plastic container and applied it to the table using a 3 inch brush.
6. Mix the stain well and apply with a wide brush. Remove excess dirt immediately with a clean, lint-free cloth. Make two panels at once and quickly erase any excess overlap on the panels to make the colors even.
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My kitchen and living room are open concept, but the space is not big. Adding too many colors to a space can make it look messy.
I think the trick is to work within a limited color palette so the space isn’t too busy or cluttered. I decided to use a wood color that is darker than the floor, so there is a bit of contrast.
You want to remove as much of the yellow and orange paint from the wood as possible. This is done by pre-mixing the stain so that it is more of a brownish gray but not too dark.
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After painting, I put the liner on the table to see if I liked the look. I also put a reclaimed board on top that was closest to the final color I wanted.
To add some gray stain, I used acrylic craft paint over the stain while it was still wet. This makes it look like a reclaimed board with a hint of yellow or orange.
I used a damp rag to dab a small amount of paint on a random area and wiped it with long pressure strokes to push the paint into the wood. I used a bit of both where I think the stain looks orange. do.
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