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How Do You Wire A Outlet – Today I want to share with you another article about “Electrical Basics”. It is very simple, but there is only one thing that some of you are asking – how to turn off the power. If you’ve never installed a power switch before and are afraid to remove that panel and see what’s underneath, I think you’ll be surprised at how easy it is.

And since this is probably the most common situation you’ll see, I’ll show you how to place the power supply in the middle of the circuit.

How Do You Wire A Outlet

First, before doing anything with a switch or outlet or light or other electrical item, you need to make sure that the power is off in the broken box. If you don’t know how to do this, or you don’t know which switch powers which part of your house, or you don’t know how to use the test, don’t go.

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After removing the switch, be sure to test the circuit with a tester.

Notably, I didn’t have to because there was no wiring for that room even with the broken box. If I go into the closet where my box is, I have five wires for five circuits for my studio hanging from the ceiling in the closet, and not one near the broken box. Attaching the broken box is the last step. Anyway, moving on…

I’ve explained this in a previous post, but to refresh your memory, a circuit is a set of outlets and/or switches that get their power from a switch in a switch box.

The circuit I went to last night was this one, where the wire from the fridge switch in the guest bedroom runs across the house to the outlet marked #1. Then it goes to #2, and #3, and so on.

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And in the image of this post, I’ll post the result labeled #2 in the image above. So it draws its power from socket #1 and then sends power to socket #3 in the circuit.

I have two wires in the fridge. As I explained earlier, I always label the wires, so you can see one that says “in” (meaning it’s from socket #1) and one that says “out” (meaning this circuit goes to the next outlet., output #3).

The first step is to remove the yellow tape from the cable, and I use this tool to do that…

The enclosure is specifically designed to remove this external cable from 14/2 and 12/2 cables. The wire is 12/2, so I use the larger one.

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I try to cut as much of the mask in the box as possible, which usually leaves about an inch of cable visible in the box.

And when the yellow core is removed (a wire cutter cuts it easily, then you peel it off), six wires are revealed – two black, two white and two bare copper.

When I work with 12 gauge wire, I use them exclusively. They are a little more expensive than the cheap ones in the contractor’s package, but they save a lot of time and less work because they are small metal tiles for less than the terminal cost…

If you have a socket that doesn’t have the little metal plates under the screw, that means you have to wrap the end of the wire into a small hook or loop and tie the wire around the screw. Not a big deal when it comes to 14-wire, but a frustrating headache when it comes to 12-wire.

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So I opt for sockets with small plates/clamps under the screws. This allows you to insert the cable directly under the plate/clamp and tighten the screw. No need to wrap the wire and wrap the screw. It’s easy and saves time!

So, going back to the box, I cut the excess wire so that what was left was about four inches of wire attached to the front of the box. This gives me a total of 7-8 inches of wire to work with.

This is speculation. The box may be more or less than four inches from the front. Just be aware that if you make them too short, you’ll end up with a river and the wires will be a real mess. If you leave them plugged in for too long, it’s hard to put that cable back in the box when you’re done.

Then I use the same wire and use these small areas to remove individual wires. There is one for 14 gauge wire, and one for 12 gauge wire. Mine is a 12 gauge, so that’s what I used.

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No need to guess how far to remove the cable end. Every outlet or switch you buy has a label on the back of the outlet or switch (or inside the package if there isn’t one) that tells you how much you need to remove from that outlet. . or vice versa.

On the other side you will find a silver screw. These are the neutral terminals where the white (neutral) wire goes.

On one side you will find a brass screw. These are the terminals where the black (hot) wire will go.

So on the right side, where the copper screws are, just put the ends of the black wires under the metal plates/clamps and tighten the screws to hold the wires in place.

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Remember how I named the wires (ie power input, power supply)? I always put the one that says “powerful” up and the one that says “power out” down. That way I always know which way a particular cable goes, and there’s no confusion if I need to go into that conference box later and do something.

And repeat the process with the white wires going to the silver terminal on the other side.

Also, unless you buy a socket with small plates/clamps under the screws, and you only see one screw, you just need to make a small loop at the end of the wire and wrap it around the screw. Will be. . Such a pain. 😀

So now I have the black (hot) wire connected and the white (neutral) wire connected. This leaves only the ground wire.

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I like to use these plug connectors, which you can use instead of wire nuts. Because again, working with 12 gauge wire makes me talk, so I think it makes the job easier than twisting and turning nuts.

It connects the ground wire to the wire going into the box, and the wire to wire leaves the box and goes to the next outlet. But you’ll notice that it didn’t do anything to damage the socket because there’s still nothing going into the little green screw on the socket.

There is no plate/clip on this screw, so I usually go ahead and make a hook on the end of the wire and twist it. But I have noticed that there is a small area that cheap sockets don’t have that allows the cable to slide easily and is held firmly when the screws are tightened. The instructions that come with this jack don’t go into much detail about this, but I tested it by pulling hard on the cable and it seems to hold up well. Although it seems to hold up well, I recommend making a twist at the end of the wire and wrapping it around the screw.

And then the outlet is ready to plug into the junction box. If you’re working with 12-gauge wire, this is probably the trickiest part of the whole process. I’m telling you, these things just don’t want to bend and work together, so it can take some gentle wrestling to get everything going. Remote places to get out in the conference room box, but strong, but soft, and a little sick, he will get there.

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But that’s it! Wiring is very easy! And when all the wires are done and screwed into place, you can reset the switch and test the output to make sure everything is working. Easy! And of course, you’ll want to add a faceplate to finish the job. I’m not going to do that right now because the drywall guys are still gluing and painting and when they’re done I’ll be painting and painting. I will add the front panel when the wall

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