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How To Make A Spinning Table Top – Here’s a fun LEGO® challenge – use your bricks to build spinning tops! This is one of our favorite challenges because there are so many ways to make a spinning top and it spins really well. You don’t need a lot of special pieces – I can guarantee that everyone will have pieces!
Kids can play directly on the table or on the floor, or you can create a “battlefield” for them, such as Beyblades. They last a long time on the table because they don’t drop anything, but the downside is that they often end up on the edge of the table, causing pieces to fall.
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Actually, it’s fun to do both! Rotate them on the table and then try to fight more than one of them in your hall. We went beyond the basic blocks and built the frame for the LEGO® Twisted Ceiling. Our table has small holes, so I cut some poster board to fit under the frame. I taped the tiles to the poster board with some tape – but not too much because I didn’t want the bricks to stick.
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Below this post are suggestions for maximizing the STEM learning that will be accomplished through this project. I love using LEGO® bricks for STEM challenges, like these inflatable LEGO things and this LEGO® roller coaster.
Find the largest round slab available. (The slabs are flat bricks.) These are 6 vertical 6 steps.
You have to use an axle to rotate the top, but the big circular plates have a round hole in the middle. If you attach a 2 x 2 round board to the bottom, the x holes in the 2 x 2 board will help hold it on the axle.
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Add a round brick and dome brick to make the handle. Axum passes through these bricks.
Another way to make a LEGO wheel is to use 1/2 length engineering pins instead of axles. One of the kids made this cute top. Look for the blue pin like in the image below.
In the image below, the lower left rotating end has a rod instead of an axle in the middle, and an inverted 1 x 1 cone at the bottom. Spin well!
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Find these LEGO® building ideas and 49 more in my book – Amazing LEGO Creations with Bricks You Already Own
This book is perfect for kids who love to draw! Give them plenty of inspiration with 50 projects to build with random bricks in their big pool. This was my second time building a round dining table and I decided to adjust my plans to create a sturdy, professional looking dining table and applications. They are 100% worth it!
Things I’ve learned: It’s more efficient to go to the lumber yard and cut the wood by jointing and planing and choose good hardwoods like maple, oak, walnut or alder!! I cannot stress this enough. I didn’t do this the first time, instead I bought some 2×6 lumber from Home Depot and I didn’t round the edges and… let’s just say it’s a very different finish to the overall finish.
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Click here for all the tips and tricks for buying a wood yard for beginners! I promise that by using these tips you will feel less anxious and nervous and more confident about asking for and buying beautiful wood.
Here is a list of the materials I left the lumber yard with. Your choice may vary if you choose to use thin or wide planks of wood.
The base has a Jane Woodhouse 60-inch course with a large 70-inch tabletop, except for the altered dimensions.
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2: Find the center of the center board and use a wood screw to insert a piece of wood (about 4 inches wide) into that center point. This will be your concert.
3: Move the tool in a circle, making sure to always hang 3-4 inches.
4: Using a circular or miter saw, cut the boards to 8 inches long, placing the scrap on the sides. (Save as much scrap as possible. This will come in handy when building the Octagon).
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5: Make dashes every 8-12 inches where you will make the pocket holes and attach the boards with screws. I changed these pocket holes to distribute the stress on each board.
6: Pocket holes. If you are using .75″ thick wood like I am, set your Craig jig guide and drill bit to 3/4″ and use a 1 1/4″ pocket screw.
7: Glue the entire joint of the two boards with wood, brush, roller or finger, spreading the wood so that the glue spreads evenly over the entire joint. Line up the two boards and make them tight and touching, but the two boards will stick together. Tighten and insert the 1 1/4 inch pocket screws.
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8: Glue in the steps. I put no more than 4 boards on at a time and let the boards sit for 24 hours before moving on to the next set of 4 boards. Pressure in all directions. The ultimate goal is to glue the seams so that there are no gaps between the planks of wood, but the most important thing is that the table is flat. So if you just use clamps to hold the planks in place and don’t apply pressure to the table to keep it flat…it tends to bend like a taco. And nobody wants a taco table
9: This is an optional step, but if the table isn’t too heavy and you’re looking for a table with thicker edges, this is the way to go. Make sure your boards are 6″ wide (this picture is incorrect for 3″ wide boards). Each board is cut 22.5 degrees on each end and 30 inches long.
70″ x .41421 = 29.999″ per board, rounded to 30″ per board with 22.5 degrees on both sides.
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Completing a project like this can feel overwhelming at times. If you need help, not only with basic tools, but also how to properly cut wood, cut it, paint it like a pro. Check out the DIY Beginner Basics online course that teaches you how to do it yourself so you can go at your own pace. Visit www.homeschoolwithtools.com and use code HONYBUILT10 for $10 off.
10: Attach the circular saw or router to the bar. If you’re having trouble and want to trim it a bit, I recommend tacking 1/2″ or 1″ above the edge of the table you’re trying to make.
Take a piece of wood 6 inches longer than your radius. (Radius = 1/2 the width of your table.)
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Attach one end of the stick to the center of the table. Router: Drill a 1-inch hole in the other end of the board. This is where your router bit will cut into your table. Measure the distance from the center of the table to where your driving tip is. This distance is your radius!
Attach the router to your tablet using a few spare screws. Make sure the screws don’t go into the plate or it will pull and scratch your table.
Circular Saw: A mountain saw with some screws on the edge of the metal plate to keep the blade 35 inches from your center screw.
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I had to paint the legs because Douglas fir in its natural state is no match for natural white oak. This is the mixture I use.
Take the length of the pencil and the length of the radius of the circle (half the size of the circle, 35).
First, use a stick and router and repeatedly go a little deeper until you’ve gone through two inches of wood. This will bring you full circle.
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Second, use a miter saw and follow the drawn line. And then seal the edges as much as you like. I didn’t have a router so I did this. And after a good paste with a bit of character 😉 everything ended up fine.
The third is a new technique that Anawhite recently shared. I’m posting the video here because I’m impressed with how they did it. Basically, you make a rod and take a table saw and cut some straight lines around the table, and when all the straight lines meet, the circle is equal. (I know. Crazy. But it worked).
Once everything is set up, get an extra set of hands…or two to help flip the table top. You think the hard part is over, but you’re honest.
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