How To Make Coffee Table Taller – Happy Wednesday everyone! Finally, I'm very happy to share the details about DIY Railing Coffee Table. This was our first build and I'm happy with how it turned out. When I was looking for a coffee table to buy, I immediately fell in love with the Restoration Hardware balustrade coffee table. The only problem was that it cost $1,495, which was more than I wanted to spend. When I found Jane Woodhouse's tutorial on how to make a similar version of Anna White's reclaimed coffee table, I couldn't wait to jump in and start this project. I'll share a link to her construction plans below because they led me to create this beauty! I also modified his original plan to make a square coffee table and made the square coffee table 38.5 x 38.5 inches and a bit taller, so if you're interested in a rectangular version, check out his plan.
As I mentioned before, this was our first build, so I can honestly say that this is a great project for beginners who want to try building something for the first time. This project took us a few weeks, but that's because we spread it out over several weekday evenings. It took 7 hours to build and another 5 hours for me to sand and paint. This was my first time sanding and painting anything, so for those more familiar with both, this time will definitely be shortened.
How To Make Coffee Table Taller
Cut list: All my cuts are done on Los. It was a lot easier to do if it was $0.25 off.
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To get started, this project requires drilling a lot of craig holes, so we wanted to show off our little kit to show you how to drill them. Since it's winter, we did all of this in an unfinished area of our basement, and Craig used clamps to secure the wing to both the wood and the workbench so the wood wouldn't move while we drilled. Paul continued to help hold the wood as I drilled each hole in Craig's tire. I had never used a drill before, so after drilling each hole, Wonder Woman/Mrs. independent
We started assembling the bottom of the coffee table by adding (7) pieces of 1 x 6 @ 38.5″ lumber with 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket screws. We also glued the wood together and when I applied a thin layer of glue I used a flux brush to spread it evenly. We made 5 kreg holes per board. To make sure everything was right, we used a square and extra wood on both sides to make sure everything was straight.
Here's how the bottom of the coffee table looks after the pocket screws are drilled. (Note: Make sure the pocket holes are staggered so the panels don't split.)
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Now use (2) 2 x 4 @ 38.5″ and (2) 2 x 4 @ 31.5″ to create a square underneath. Secure the 2 x 4s with 2-inch wood nails.
Use wood glue and 2″ wood nails to attach (4) 2×4 @ 3.5″ to the bottom base corner to make the coffee table legs. We tried using 1×4″ at first, but the wood split when we tried to attach it. (Note: drill a hole in the center of the wood before drilling the wood screws so the wood won't split)
Now for the tricky part: centering cute posts into blocks. Once done, we attached the bottom of the post to the block using a flux brush and wood glue. After centering the post, we agreed to put the bales on top and let them dry overnight (yes, I only use 10lb bales when I work, yes, that means I'm very loose.) After the glue dries. Overnight we turned it in. Lower the block with 2-inch wood screws and secure it to the post.
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To attach the other side of the block, I used Any White's trick and used clamps and extra wood to make sure everything lined up. When the glue is partially dry, we release the clamp and put a weight on it so that it does not slide. After the glue dries, secure the block to the post using 2-inch wood screws. Now you should have 4 beautiful legs!
Place the legs about 1 inch from the sides and ends, then use wood glue to attach the legs. Then we put weights on top of things to keep them from sliding. We used (4) 2 x 4 @ 25.5” aprons to glue the legs to the table to make sure the apron would fit.
When the glue dries, flip the table over and secure the legs to the underside of the coffee table with 2-inch wood screws.
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The round nail is where the 2-inch wood screws are inserted into the underside of the table to secure the legs.
Now we made the table top using (7) 2 x 6 @ 27.5″ and (2) 2 x 6 @ 38.5″. Attach the wood pieces using wood glue, a 1 1/4″ pocket hole, and 2/12″ pocket screws. We drilled 4 pockets on the middle panel and double pockets on the side panels for a total of 14 pockets per panel. (Note: Be careful not to get the glue on the table when gluing the wood. If the glue gets wet and falls on the table, remove the glue while it's still wet. Dry wood glue won't stick. I have trouble getting into the piece. To prevent this, I like to apply a thin layer of glue with a flux brush and this (which prevents the glue from sticking to the edges.)
Now attach the (4) 2 x 4 @ 25.5″ aprons to the top of the leg. Using the 1 1/2″ pocket hole in the top of the board and the 2 1/2″ pocket, attach the apron to the inside corner. screws. We clamp and ghost make sure everything is level I also used a level.
Es Taller 108
Attach the table top to the apron with 2-inch wood screws and drill countersunk screws into the bottom and top of the apron. Now that the table is complete, make some happy cookies!
Now for the very tedious part of the whole project, the sandblasting and painting side. I did all of this part of the project myself, which was frustrating at times (because it was my first time painting with sandpaper)! At least it gave me a lot of practice for future projects.
First, I sand the entire top and bottom with a Ryobi orbital sander. First, I sanded it down with 120 grit sandpaper.To make sure I was sanding everything evenly, I drew a light pencil line along the top and bottom to make sure I was removing the same amount of wood from all surfaces (sorry I can't say I came up with this cool technique myself , but I Of course, like everything else, I found it on youtube). Be sure to run an orbital sander to avoid creating uneven holes. After using the 120-grit sandpaper, I went back to the 150-grit, followed by the 180-grit, and finished with the 220-grit. 220 grit sandpaper gives the table a smooth, almost buttery finish! I used 180 and 220 grit sanding blocks because I couldn't use an orbital sander on the sides. After everything is sanded, I wipe them down and remove all sanding residue.
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Now on to the coloring part! This is the part where the table can be viewed in hundreds of different ways. If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen a video of me starting to paint and then deciding I hate Minwax Water Based Paint in American Walnut. Luckily I only had scars
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