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The top is about 40″ wide (round) and weighs 120 lbs. I would think a 4×4 post should do, but maybe they should be bigger? I can find lots of docs how to make a single X design by cutting each post in half, but double X seems more complicated than I would like to support the weight of the top and everything on it.
How To Make X Frame Table Legs
Here’s one way, although it’s a little hard to see in a simple sketch. Sorry, but the cross-sectional sketch shows the joints horizontally, not vertically. Give me feedback if this is not clear enough:
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The feet do not have to be 4″ to support the load, but may be required for the 4-way joint to work.
Two legs in one plane act as the main assembly and are connected by notches in each leg to allow them to cross over.
After that, the opposite leg does not go further. Instead, create a 90 degree joint with a spline (dashed line) down the middle of each leg to support the 90 degree bend. (shown in red). These legs are placed with a seam cut (not shown & narrower than full leg width) on the sides of the main leg (black outline).
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The primary and secondary legs can be glued together, provided the boards have good contact with each other. Otherwise, some people consider using dowels to strengthen the joints. I highly recommend you build a test model before trying this for a real project. There will definitely be complications that you don’t think of that can be resolved in a test.
If it were me, I’d probably start by making 4 half-wrapped X’s. Then put everything together. Vertically oriented glued half-lap half-xes will support the weight of the top, and they can also be pinned at that point and even pinned or connected using floating pins.
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This detailed tutorial shows you step by step how to make a beautiful DIY farmhouse table that works flawlessly both inside and out.
When I needed a new desk for our home screen, I decided it was the perfect time to make one myself and I absolutely love the result.
This table looks great in the dining room, on the covered patio or outside on the patio, depending on how you finish it.
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It has a clean and simple design, but the thick X legs keep it from feeling ordinary. They also help keep wood costs down as you don’t need to buy fancy turntable legs to build this table.
The X-legs are built with extra-tough lap joints, so you can trust this table to withstand whatever your family throws at it.
I’ve shared a tutorial for creating this table below, and I’ve also created a printable PDF building plan. The building plans guide you through the process of building this bench, including a tool list, materials list, and simple step-by-step instructions with pictures. You can buy building plans in my shop here.
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The first step is to make the X legs. I love the look of these big thick X legs and they are also very sturdy.
When buying your 4″ x 4″ boards, pay attention to what types of wood are available. My local shop only had 4″ x 4″ in very red wood, which made it hard to match the paint color later on. But since then I’ve seen the 4×4 suffer in other shops. If you’re planning on painting your table, the tone of the wood doesn’t really matter, but staining it with the same type of wood will make things easier.
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Start by cutting two 4″ x 4″ x 8′ boards into four pieces that are each 36.5″ long, with 45 degree parallel corner cuts on each end. Sand all rough edges.
To form the X legs, make legs with these two pieces of wood. The lap joint is a very strong joint that ensures the table is sturdy and can bear the weight well.
Making the lap joint can seem really intimidating if you’ve never done it before, but as long as you do it step by step, it’s pretty easy.
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Lay your wood at an angle as shown in the photo above. Measure 18″ from one end of the wood. Mark a straight line perpendicular to the board.
There should be 3.5 inches of space between the two lines. Before you start cutting with a circular saw, check that your wood is straight.
Set your circular saw blade to 1¾”. The saw will cut in half each board, about 1¾” deep.
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Cut carefully along the two lines you drew in the center of your wood. Then make lots of adjacent parallel cuts between the two cuts.
Use a wood chisel to knock the wood chips out of this area. The thin piece of wood should be easy enough to remove with your chisel.
If for some reason you’re having trouble with this, simply cut a few more passes with your circular saw.
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Try to remove the wood shavings as cleanly as possible for a smooth inside edge. When finished, it should look like the image below.
If it doesn’t quite fit, you may need to trim a little more to make enough space. Try not to cut too much or your joints won’t fit.
Glue the two pieces together with wood glue at the joints. Pre-drill the holes and use 2.5″ screws to connect them.
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Cut four pieces of 2″x4″ board 35″ each. These will be the top and bottom supports for each X leg.
To get a good corner edge, turn each board 35″ on its side and measure 1″ from the end of the board. Make a 45 degree miter cut at the 1 inch mark.
Center one of these supports over one of your knees. Attach with wood glue and 2.5″ screws. Attach another to the bottom of the X leg in the same way.
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For my own table, I used reclaimed wood that a family member keeps in his garage. The boards are 1″ thick and 12-14″ wide and work well.
A project like this is a great time to use reclaimed wood, especially if you want a rougher finish on your countertop. Boards of any width will work and they don’t even have to be the same width, but they should be the same thickness.
Of course, not everyone is lucky enough to have reclaimed wood in stock, so another solution that looks great is to use 2″ x 10″ boards to make your table top. (If you need help finding wood, I have a post with lots of ideas on how to find reclaimed wood cheaply.)
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To make a plank table top, cut each board 2″x10″ to 66″ long with a circular saw. Sand down any roughness from the cut edges.
Lay the board for the table top upside down on a flat surface. Use a pocket hole jig to drill pocket holes every 6 inches along the shelf.
The stretcher is the horizontal support between the two legs of the X. It gives the table a lot of structural support.
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To make the stretcher, cut the remaining 4″x4″ boards to 44″ lengths and drill two pocket holes in the bottom of each end.
You attach the stretcher right in the middle of each X-leg. Before installing the stretcher, make sure to position your table legs such that the screws are on the inside of the table where they are not visible.
Place the X-legs upside down and ask for help to hold the struts in place, or use a piece of wood to level them while you attach them to the X-legs. Then add wood glue to each end and use 2½” pocket screws to screw them into the center of each X leg. When you turn the table upside down, the pocket holes are hidden underneath.
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To attach the table top to the legs, we use figure eight fasteners. These are small fasteners made specifically for connecting table tops. They allow the wood to expand and contract naturally without cracking or twisting. (If you want more information, this article on fasteners on the figure eight from The Handyman’s Daughter is very helpful.)
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