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Introduction Everyone needs a place to rest after a long day and, for most, that place is their porch or deck. This cedar chaise is perfect for putting your feet up. Pocket hole construction makes construction very easy. We built this chaise lounge using 7/8 in. thick cedar. This cedar outdoor chair does not fold for storage, so if you want to store it for the winter, make these two changes: Remove the glue from the center of the back (C) and seat rails (B) , and mounting. braces (E) with 1/2-in. nuts, bolts and washers.
How To Build A Chaise Lounge
Pocket hole jigs are a DIYer's best friend when it comes to simple woodworking. We used a Kreg K4 jig, but any pocket hole system will work.
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Cut the leg legs (A), seats (B) and back rails (C) on the miter saw based on the Cut List dimensions. Our cedar boards have a sand face and a hard face. To ensure that the rough faces are hidden in your project, join the boards so that the rough edges face each other when you cut. Set the stop on your miter saw to 23-3/4 in. and cut the planks (D).
Place the table on your workbench to ensure the side assemblies are aligned and lie correctly on the ground once the restroom is assembled. Measure 13 in. from the long side of the rear bars (C). Glue the ends of the seat posts (B). Adjust the 25 degree angle of the seat rail and the mark on the back rail. Match the 10 degree angle of the seat rail with the leg rail (A). Tighten the assembly with a 1-1/2-in. External screws in pocket hole.
Place the assembly on one side so that the rough side is facing up. Bend one end of each slat and screw it into the side assembly. Continue working on the edge of the assembly, connecting all the slats. Install the slats 1/4 in from the inside, using a 1/4-in scrap. plywood as a spacer. Screw the board to the top edge of the side assembly as a stop to prevent the slats from moving when screwing.
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Glue the ends of the planks together and hold the second side assembly in place. Tighten the outside planks and then work inside, placing 1/4-in. the space between the slats.
Cut the braces (E) along. Glue and hold the braces to the joints on the inner surface of the side assemblies. Drill pilot holes and then install braces with 1-1/4-in. external wood screws. Check out our other 40 favorite DIY wood projects.
We no longer support IE (Internet Explorer) as we work to provide the site experience for browsers that support new web standards and security practices. Chaise lounge chairs can seem like a daunting project, but if you have the right plans, it's no harder to build than a chair or bench – there's more measuring and more cutting. These DIY chaise lounge chair plans will guide you, step by step, on how to make your own chaise lounge chair.
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Since these chairs will be used outside, I recommend using a weather resistant wood such as cedar (or teak if you want to go high end). Even if you use pine it is still fine, as long as you paint or seal it well.
The first step is to make a simple box to be the outer frame of your chaise lounge. Use wood glue and pocket screws from the inside or finish nails/screws from the outside.
Once you've assembled the outer frame, it's time to assemble the inner frame, which is the support for the lower seats and the slatted support for the upper support. Each piece is offset from the top of the exterior frame by 3/4″ (thickness of the planks) so that the planks stay flush with the exterior framing.
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I prefer to dry-measure all the inner frame pieces first to make sure they fit inside the outer frame, but then I assemble the inner frame separately before gluing it to the outer frame . This method allows you to nail/screw 26″ to 44 1/2″ boards from the outside instead of using pocket screws or trying to nail them together.
This step is quite simple. Starting 1/4″ from the footboard of the outer frame, glue the 1×3 planks to the inner frame. Here, you don't need to use wood glue, because gravity should hold it – especially when you put nails or screws.on each support board.
Now that you have the stationary parts, it's time to move on to the moving parts. Start by cutting four pieces of 1×4 to 34 1/2″, and then cut a 3 1/2″ radius arc on one side to allow the support to rotate in and out of the frame.
Diy Outdoor Furniture
Now attach thirteen 1×3″ boards to the backrest supports. You start with the bottom slats, making sure the side line lines up with the bottom edge of the backrest supports. NOTE: this first stone requires you to round the bottom edge to allow the backrest to rotate freely at the top. Continue attaching the remaining twelve planks with nails or screws in the same manner as below, leaving a 1/4″ space between each.
After you've attached the slats, it's time to attach the two 1x4x2″ spacer blocks to the outside of the support brackets. These should be adjusted from the end of the backrest support by about 1/4″.
The last thing you want to do when building this part is to drill the holes for the 3/8″ carriage bolts. Two holes (one on each side) go through the spaceship block. The center of these holes should be 1″ in from each side, and 1/3″ down from the bottom of the planks. In these holes the vehicle bolt will turn on the support bracket, so it is important that they are positioned correctly.
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The other two holes are for the support arm carriage bolts. They should be placed 15 3/4″ from the nearest edge of the support blocks, and 1 3/4″ from the end of the board.
Now that you have the backrest assembled, it's time to assemble and assemble the support arm which will allow you to adjust the angle of the backrest. This requires drilling a hole in each end of your 1 x 2 x 19 1/2″ board. On the other end, you drill a 3/4″ diameter hole for the dowel. This hole should be located 3/4″ on each side of the table. The hole on the other side of the table is for a 3/8″ bearing and should also be located 3/4″ on each side.
If you already have holes, use 2″ carriage bolts to attach the arms to the inside of the outer support boards, and slide a 3/4″ dowel with an overhang at each level.
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Attach the backrest by placing it in place inside the inner frame. Mark where the 3/8″ carriage bolt holes poke through the outer frame, drill these holes and use the 3″ carriage bolts to attach them.
Attach a 24″ 1×2 board to the bottom of the inner board of the inner frame so that it sits 2 1/4″ below the top edge of the outer frame. Then attach 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/4″ blocks every 1 1/2″, starting 1 1/2″ from the top inner frame board as shown in the picture below. A good tip to make sure both sides stay the same is to use another 26″ length of 1×2 as a spacer placed between the two 24″ boards.
You are done! Now you just need to cut and glue the legs. Of course, you can use a basic square of 4×4 legs, but you are putting a lot of work into your DIY chaise lounge chair, so why not take the time to cut tapers on both sides of the legs to give them some extra . style? The images below provide the design of these tapers.
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After the legs are cut, you can attach them with wood glue and nails / nails from the outside or pocket hole screws from the inside.
If you've chosen a weather-resistant wood such as cedar or teak, oiling the finished seat should provide a nice, low-maintenance finish each year (soap and water with a Scotchbrite pad, and re- oiling). If you're using pine or something similar, you'll want to stain and seal or paint your seat (including the bottom of the legs) to make sure it holds up well to the elements.
That's it. We are
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