How To Make A Shadow Box Coffee Table – A recent project I completed was a shadow box coffee table with a glass top. The client wanted to refinish the table and we made some cosmetic changes to update the look. See pictures.
Well, her friend was looking for something similar on the Internet, but to no avail. He asked if there was anything I could do for him. Here is the result! I hope, you will like it!
How To Make A Shadow Box Coffee Table
She wanted something more traditional. I started by looking for a reasonably priced table leg. I have one from Van Dyke restorers. They come in many shapes and sizes. A square table at his request. The table was to be 42 inches wide, 42 inches long, and 18 ¾ inches high (the original sketch had a 15 inch leg, but it didn’t fit). I tried to use good quality wood for all the components to keep things simple, on time and on budget.
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Hand grinder (I have a rotator palm) Safety first! Use safety glasses, dust mask, hearing protection, gloves! Don’t miss it because it hurts! Bad things can and do happen while you wait. I recently had to rush my assistant to the optometrist. We finished the cutting, sanding, etc. on another project. I’m collecting now. However, he bumps into something and sees dirt falling on him. Some hit him in the eyes. He was in agony and the doctor had to clean and repair his eyes. He is fine now, but for a while they were worried about corneal damage. So it’s a good idea to wear protective gear whenever possible and keep your shop clean.
Photos: Our project, the original before and after, the legs we used and finally our original sketch.
I started by cutting two 1″ x 6″ x 8′ pieces in half. I then traced a quarter-inch-wide groove on each plate to keep the glass flush with the top. Each section had to be 42 inches, so I cut to the correct length at a 45 degree angle on each end. As a result, I got 4 parts that made up the frame above.
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I check the distance by turning the parts over on the floor and placing the feet in place. I spaced the legs evenly in the middle of the diagonal cut. I then measured this space to determine the length of the skirt. Then I cut the remaining 1″ x 6″ boards into skirt pieces and set them aside. I moved the top pieces inside to the flattest and levelest spot in our house, our kitchen island. He used a strap clip to pull the pieces together. Flat items tied with straps tend to bend, so I placed a heavy can of paint in each corner while they dried. To keep my wife happy and not kill me, I put a small piece of waxed paper under each part that was taped to keep it from spilling onto the counter top.
My plan was to use pocket screws for everything. I used a Kreg pocket hole jig (one of my favorite tools) to drill 5 evenly spaced holes on each skirt piece to mount on the board. I then drilled 3 on each end to attach the legs. I won’t go into the details of using the fixtures here. There are lots of great things out there that can show you how. Time to assemble the skirt and legs. This is where an assistant comes in handy. I had it briefly but then had to do it myself with a rod clamp. At each end of the skirt I put two legs upside down (also upside down). Apply glue to each end of the skirt. I stapled the three pieces together so the screws could be inserted into the pocket. Repeat on the other side. The reason I did this on the floor was to keep all the pieces level so they would flow off the counter. Once the pieces are in place, attach the two halves to the remaining two boards in the same manner.
I opened the top. It wasn’t as strong as I had hoped. However, all I needed was to hold it together as I screwed the skirt onto it. I turned around. I then turned all the attached legs and the skirt upside down and placed the drawing on the table top. Aligning to the center, I traced the skirt and legs to the bottom of the tablet. I transferred everything and applied glue to the marked areas. Then I put the skirt and legs back in place. I screwed in pocket screws around the perimeter, zigzagging from side to side, so that they do not move while I work. The much-needed stability of beveled table top corners. Reluctantly, I hammered a nail or two into each corner of the countertop so they wouldn’t break after drying. The main table was ready.
Diy Shadowbox Crate Table
After everything had dried overnight I started the decorative piping around the edges of the skirt. This added character to the table but also covered the bottom edge of the plywood that I will add later. I cut off the top and put it up between the legs. I placed the second piece along the bottom edge of the skirt, overlapping about 10 cm. ¼”. I cheated by holding a piece of ¼-inch scrap by the edge while gluing and nailing. No measurement. Repeat on all 4 sides. Then I glued and nailed the 1″ x 2″ to the top of the skirt. This gave the upper more stability and helped hide the pocket patch. I placed ¾” x ½” pine on the corners of the legs. This will hide the edge of the plywood below when installed for a more finished look.
Finally the table was assembled. I filled the cracks in the beveled corners with wooden tape, being careful not to overcrowd the space. A wood filler such as glue can sometimes block the stain and not provide a good finish. After all the nail holes etc were filled and dried, everything was sanded. I sanded the beveled corners the most to get a flat finished seam. The rest was lightly sanded in preparation for painting. Everything was cleaned with three coats of maroon oil stain. Then I added two coats of water based satin polyester. The wood still looked uneven, so I covered everything with a stain. This helped bring out the color and add some character. I applied two layers of polyethylene.
During all of this, the weather turned bad and I was never able to get a ¼ inch sheet. I finally had a chance to get out, but now I had to paint and finish the bottom separately. I measured the base and cut the bottom. Once dry I applied glue and then glued it back on but used small wood screws to secure it in place. Then he went to the glass place. I wanted them to match the glass in case something went wrong. I almost forgot before I left the jar, I made a small hole in one of the bottom corners where it’s not too noticeable. A small scar hid the freshly cut hole. A small dowel was cut to push through the hole and raise the glass. After all, the table is designed to show little marks and should open easily without breaking your fingernails or puncturing the top with a knife or screwdriver.
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That’s about all. I hope you like the finished product. You can easily convert the table to any size you need. If you already have a table with a glass top, consider placing it down to create a shadow box. I look forward to your comments, questions and feedback. By the way, the customer was happy with his new desk! From our Hammer It Out series, display your collectibles with an acrylic top case that doubles as a coffee table.
There’s no room for your grandfather’s hand tools or your own hard-won belongings in a cardboard box buried in the garage. Why not display them properly and add a recessed coffee table with a removable top that you make yourself? A few scraps of wood, some standard legs, and a little more than just a sheet of acrylic, and you’ve got yourself a DIY display coffee table that’s good for telling a story.
Our shadow box coffee table cutout is based on list table legs with a 2¼” x 2¼” section at the top and 5″ high. This non-returnable section of the stand provides a flat surface for attaching the apron sections. Its width Table top will affect the dimensions of the frame, so if you use different foot sizes, be sure to adjust your measurements accordingly.
Coaster Lift Top Coffee Table
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