How To Make A Polished Concrete Table – Concrete products look amazing and are really cheap. The table is made without expensive or unusual materials and will brighten up your home or office in no time! I made several tables and chairs using the same process.
This tutorial will explain and show you how to build a DIY table for any table you want to build. The exact foundation will not be detailed, but the complete building instructions can be found on Ana-White's amazing DIY site. I modified his plan by adding general dimensions and removing the top of the wood.
How To Make A Polished Concrete Table
Drill – I use a Dewalt Drill Circular Saw Table Saw – Optional (can use a circular saw instead)
Polished Concrete Countertops
How to make a DIY table 1. Determine the size of the table you want to make.
The buffet table I made is 17 inches wide by 52 inches by 1.5 inches wide. Here is a diagram showing how I made the shape.
If you want a board that is 1.5 inches tall, add 3/4 inch to make it 2.25 inches long. This is the bottom of the store.
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Add 1 5/8 inches of dry grass about 8-12 inches. Delete the template hole for convenience. Be sure to plan everything possible on the side.
Once assembled, the structure will look like the image below. Now you will have a shape to pour concrete. Note – Your concrete table top will be very thin because it will be hard on the exposed melamine surface. The part you will grease and seal later will be real. Once the project is cured it will be implemented.
In the video I use a 100% silicone melt pipe. You can also use a caulk gun. Then use baked goods to make it easier. You can also use tape to get a straight line as shown below.
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Save the paper to wipe your hands when you're done! When you're done, remove the tape while the foam is wet. Use a paper towel to remove any fluff that accidentally touches other parts of the storage. Let it cure for a few hours.
Once the cork has cured, go ahead and cut it to size with the shoe cutter. If your table is 52 inches long and 17 inches wide, cut the steel wire to 50″ by 15″. This will leave about an inch of play on the sides. Then use alcohol and a paper towel to clean thoroughly, making sure all dust and particles come off the mold.
It's time to mix the concrete. Follow the instructions on the bag to see how much water they recommend adding. I like to put water in a pan in front of the concrete to reduce dust. Wear a dust mask during this process as the parts are not breathable. Mix 1 or 2 bags of concrete at a time. Use a small scraper or garden shovel to break up the concrete. I like to mix it with coconut oil. If it is too dry, add more water at a time. If too much is added, pour a little of the mixture.
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* Now is the time to add water color or powder if desired. Another way to add color is to apply acid paint to the concrete once the project has cured.
Grab a bucket of concrete (wear rubber gloves of course) and start packing the concrete into the form. * Remember to make sure your job is as level as possible before placing the concrete.
Once the shape is more than half full, you'll want to add a pad. Just put the reinforcement in place and finish the rest of the form with concrete.
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Fill the form with concrete until it is full. Take an old 2×4 or straight beam and cut off the excess to cut the concrete. Move the 2×4 into the seam. Go back over the entire structure (several times) and fill all the spaces below with concrete. Make sure your work area is level. If necessary, you can always get wet. A standard job will ensure that your actual poster is the same size overall.
When you're done leveling the concrete, lift your chair up and down a bit to shake the concrete. Aeration of the concrete will help reduce the amount of air trapped in the finished concrete. This is an important step. Another way to help the part vibrate is to hit the bottom of the table (the bottom of your part) with a mallet or rubber band. Then use a hammer (or orbital sander) to remove the bad air from the outside (hitting the edges with a hammer). Finally, use a basic trowel to smooth the concrete. The part you are planting will be under the concrete table top. You want the bottom to be comfortable enough to rest on your desk.
Now it's time to sit back and relax. Allow the concrete slab to cure for 3-4 days before removing it from the mold. Hello!
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Remove all dry pipes. Now take the trap and gently push the side of the wood away from the concrete. Make sure that the cable (or flat head) does not touch the concrete.
Use sandpaper to smooth the edges. Be careful to work from the balls and not into them. In the picture below, you start to block the sand at the corner and move to the left. This does not allow you to remove the corners. Carefully go around and seal all the bottom edges. (This will take a few minutes.)
Change slowly. It supports two people. I like to take some shops or foam to put under the concrete, so there is something to lean on gently when it bends. Continue changing the section and leave it on a few tabs. Placing it on a flat plate will make the piece completely dry.
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Use an orbital sander to smooth the part. You'll discover a few more holes, but that's fine. Start sanding the sides and corners. The top seeds will be very soft. You will fill the dry area with portland cement after this process.
Mix portland cement (not a regular mix) with water until it mixes well with your teeth. You can mix cement with concrete to help with that, but it's not necessary. Put the dough in the holes of the circle. Fill other areas with paste as needed. To fill in both sides, apply the paste between your thumb and forefinger. Click the button as shown below. After filling the holes, use a plastic spatula to remove excess paste. Let sit for 1 to 2 hours and stir well.
Use 120 and 220 grit sandpaper to remove excess paste and smooth the table top. Go all the way around.
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Remove the remaining dust from the concrete with a clean cloth. Then find a new cloth and use it to put a stone or concrete cover. These can be found at your local hardware store. Read the instructions to find the best way to seal. Once the sealer is dry, I like to wash the part. This adds a layer of protection and brightens the area a bit. The paste wax I use is Johnson's Paste Wax and you can find it in the woodworking section of the hardware store.
Use wax in circles. Then wipe with a clean microfiber cloth or terry cloth. It will be smooth and shiny!
21. Place the concrete slab on the floor. If necessary, you can use a dark coat of 100% silicon caulk around the base to keep the concrete slab from shifting. I would use a hammer on the coffee table because your feet will move the concrete. You can go with or without the buffet table.
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The base I made for this particular plate was made by Ana-White. She has a great blog with all kinds of home projects. I changed the hosting plan for this table. Click here to see the design I sponsored. Ana has detailed plans for the cutting project. My post is also on her website http://ana-white.com/
In the next post I will talk about other finishing options. Below is a picture of what the table looks like when you push it with a wet auger and remove the aggregate (rock/sand). This can also be a good effect, but it requires a special class which can be seen here.
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