How To Build A Small Coffee Table

How To Build A Small Coffee Table – Hey hey! On to the next project for our living room!! The changes have been amazing and so much fun!

How to Make a Simple Farmhouse Coffee Table I didn’t realize how easy it was until we did it!

How To Build A Small Coffee Table

We want this baby to be very strong! Strong enough to use as a bench if needed for sitting in the living room. Let me tell you…it is!!

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This coffee table is perfect for our needs. For one, we want our ottomans to fit well underneath. Second, we want it to fit snugly in our living room. And it meets both requirements perfectly!

The dimensions of our coffee table are 20¼” high x 24⅞” wide x 52½” long. OMG! Isn’t it beautiful?!!❤️❤️❤️

The ottomans slide down completely and have plenty of room on both sides. Come and see how beautiful the top of the cape is and draw your eyes to it… 😍

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This coffee table is very affordable, costing less than $35 in wood. First, we cut the 5-2x6s to 52½” long.

Here the board cuts the round edges of each table. I like my furniture to have square edges. (Btw… we love our Cobalt desk, especially because it has a foldable stand for easy storage!)

Next, we choose the best side of each board for the top of the coffee table, which is lined, with knots and signs, to make it look the way we want.

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Then we turned them all over and counted each one, including where they were going. This way we can keep track of which table is next and which direction is best suited.

AKreg-Jiggis is a useful tool, I have talked about it a lot and used it a lot. It creates a pocket hole that you can screw 2 pieces of wood together. You are tall! As you tighten the screws in it pull the 2 pieces of board together in a tight fit.

We start by gluing, clamping and screwing the coffee table together. Notice how we mark them and reverse the Craig-JigDirection.

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More clamping… we had to get creative because our clamps were not long enough for the size of the coffee table. People, life is clamps! I love them! In fact, after building this coffee table, I bought very long clamps.

Here it is reversed, and you can see the stamp in the wood that has to be sanded down, and the boards are not well smooth with each other. I will use my favorite Sander!

Now, it’s time to start working on the final support. Hubby and I put a lot of thought into these ends… do we want a little ‘cool’ yet, do we want an ‘X’ look? If so, where do we want to reach the end of ‘X’? peak? Right in the corner? Should the ‘X’ be divided into three pieces or a notch in the middle? There is a lot to think about. We are very happy with what we have chosen!

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First we make a box to support each end. Here hubby uses a square tool as we put it together. We make sure everything is square. 👍

The top board is screwed into the two side boards. Remember to pre-drill, you don’t want to split the wood. The bottom board is jigged with a bell underneath. I forgot to take a picture of it when we got home, but I took a picture when it was finished.

Adding an X to the end of the support for our coffee table gives you the extra structural support you need. 👍

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I’ll be honest, the X’s will be more difficult… but this seems like the easiest way to create the X look.

Place the end support box on top of the ‘X’ rectangle of wood, line the outside edges at the corners and mark with a pencil to give you a line to cut. (The following picture is a simulation of a corner.)

Once your X pieces are cut and each piece fits inside the end of the square. Place one piece inside the square and place another piece on top to make an X. Then mark where you will cut the room.

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Once you have your marks, you can cut the notch using a multi-tool. You will cut down the middle of the board, and remember that the cut sides will be slightly angled. Hubby cut the notch, then tested for fit, then cut more, surface, cut, etc… It was trial and error, and adjusting to fit just right.

While hubby worked on the end supports, I sanded and stained the coffee table. I first used Miniwax Pre-Stain to treat the wood. Miniwax Special Walnut is then applied. That’s what you see in this picture.

We both decided it wasn’t dark enough, so I stopped with a heavy coat of Miniwax Zone. Then top it off with three coats of Varathena Matte Clear Coat.

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Once the x-supports and finish were complete, I painted over the holes, imperfections and joints. Then sanded and primed using Zinsers Bullseye 123 Plus. Finally, I painted the finishes in satin with Benjamin Moore’s Simply White.

This is how we attach the ends to the top of the coffee table. (we are trying to put this table together before the family comes… that’s why we forgot to take a picture of the ‘house’….😏)

We tie the base of the first head, without the X in the middle. Line it with edges, clamped and nailed. Then, using 2 ½” screws, we attach the end of each support to the end of the coffee table. Next, we place the X in place, and connect it to the end support.

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Let me tell you, this stuff is powerful!!! It can easily support both vehicles and I sit on it. 👍 If you saw my last post on building a modern dining table, you may have noticed that I recently bought some maple to build that project.

When I first ordered the maple, I decided to build the table in a different way – a way that would require more wood.

So when I changed my mind and built the table the way I did, I had leftover wood that I had already paid for and I didn’t want it to go to waste.

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So I decided to make a new coffee table for myself. Actually, TWO – I have enough wood left over to make two of the modern table designs in different sizes to make a “set”.

I have a step-by-step tutorial and plans for this DIY round coffee table project along with a video (including how to make your own circle cutting jig!) below:

For example, you can use a half level or use wood screws to connect the legs. I share both methods in the video above (I use half levels for the big board and screws for the small board), but in this post, I make it simple and show the easiest way using screws.

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To cut a round table top, you can use a router and a ring jig – which will give you more accurate results. However, if you don’t have a router, you can certainly use a jig saw or band saw…

I used a ⅜″ forstner bit to drill and plug my screw holes in this project. However, you can leave the screws exposed or use putty to cover them. It is also optional.

And finally, I used number 8 materials to attach this table top. There are many ways to connect (simple screws, L brackets, etc.), so if you want to use another method, feel free to be creative.

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The table size is very easy to adjust. To adjust the height, adjust the leg length in step 2.

To adjust the top diameter, adjust the length of the bracket in step 1 and cut the top to the desired size.

Note that changing the size you build can change the amount of material you need to build. So adjust accordingly 🙂

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I share below how I made mine 34″ in diameter and about 19″ tall. It gives you a starting point and you can adjust your measurements as needed.

I started this project by deciding on the size board I wanted to make. In my case, my large table is 34″ in diameter. Once I know what size I want the top to be, I can figure out what size base to make.

The base of this table is made from 2x2s. You can buy pre-made patterns or make your own 2x2s with this tutorial.

Stockholm Coffee Table, Walnut Veneer, 707/8×231/4

Based on my 34″ diameter, I determined that the 2×2 brackets that go between the table legs should be about 15″ long.

Adjust this length about ½″ shorter for every inch shorter you make the table top and ½″ longer for every inch longer. However, I do not recommend making your board larger than 36″.

So, I cut three pieces of 2×2 about 15″

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