How To Build A Campfire Chair

How To Build A Campfire Chair – About: I was given an old sewing machine when I was a kid and I’ve been making things ever since. My name is Sam and I’m the Community Manager here. Learn more about Seamster »

They like to sit up and swing. The best part is that they pack up nicely and have a nesting seat underneath for storage or transport.

How To Build A Campfire Chair

I made these with cotton canvas and 1″ thick gray wood with a small bench.

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I wanted two wooden chairs that are extra strong and durable, but I wasn’t happy with the offer.

I put some butcher paper on the table and started geometry and detailing with rulers and squares. I’m so old school.

My goal is to create a plan that uses simple measurements and uses the most common materials. I think it was a successful effort and I’m very proud of how it turned out!

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The top photo is a digitized copy of my finished plan and includes almost all of the details needed to complete the wooden frame for the chair. However, I also covered the entire design process in the next step.

This job requires access to woodworking tools. There are many ways to achieve the same results, and which method you use will depend on your equipment and skill level.

I use a table saw and a band saw along with a drill, router, grinders and general tools. For the fabric material, I use a sewing machine along with other sewing materials.

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Other hardwoods like oak or maple are also good choices. I wouldn’t recommend the same as pine or cedar.

The board I purchased was 1 inch thick and 11 inches wide and was chosen because it was exceptionally flat and straight and wide enough to allow me to squeeze the entire chair onto the four foot long board.

I started by cutting a section from the entire board that was 48 1/2″ long (and added a little more to make up for the loss).

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I cut a 1/4″ piece from one edge to be used as a G piece (see plan).

In general, you should start by straightening one edge of the board. You can join an edge or draw a straight line along the edge and cut it freehand with a bandsaw or circular saw.

The 3″ piece is placed in the chainsaw and cut in half, it is marked with a sharpie down the center of one edge, and then carefully freehand cut with a 1/2″-3″ blade.

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All parts are brought back to the saw table and cut to the length specified in the plan using a cross-cut slide.

All lines are cut with a band saw according to the length of the counter crosses and as shown in the plan.

If you have a dado cross-cutting system set up on your table saw, you can cut the notches this way. Or cut and chisel by hand. Or whichever type you choose.

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C-crossbars have a slight bevel cut on the edges where the sit bones rest. These bevels are cut with a table saw.

I do this to improve the joints and make the whole chair stronger.

For this reason, this area needs to be a bit more precise. When stored, the ischium (which is 1 1/2 inches wide) needs to slide between two pieces of C-Wood, leaving a gap of at least 1 5/8 inches. Be sure to mark and cut the notches for the C crosspieces

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The corners of the lower branches are marked and cut with a saw. See exam preparation.

A quarter (any coin will work, it’s just pretty) is used to draw the curves at each end of the legs. The pointed parts were cut out and the parts were sanded down to the marked lines.

However, where things should be put together, I did not walk, but went to the left side of the square. This requires some dry assembly and some pencil to indicate where it’s going, but this little job makes the connections look neat.

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The flat surfaces of the parts were lightly sanded with 150 grit sandpaper using an orbital sander.

I use Titebond III glue because it’s waterproof and is best for projects like this where it’s going to rain from time to time.

All joints are glued but secured with solid deck screws that thread into countersunk pilot holes. The deck screws may be overdone as they are all closed. . But they can’t hurt.

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Thin G-pieces are washers that allow the seat to fit snugly to the backrest for storage.

Glue these to the top of the B section, flush with the front edge. I used some tape to hold them in place until the glue dried.

The pieces will come together very nicely if you cut them as directed in the plan. Place the E crosspiece before making the seat.

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Tighten the rear seat (F-pieces) starting with the rear end of the G-washers.

An I-clamp was used to keep the B-legs exactly 15 7/8″ apart, and the door frame on either side measured exactly 1 inch.

I used a 1/2″ poplar dowel to plug any countersunk holes.

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Glue is applied to the end of the dowel and tapped on the dowel with a hammer. The protruding dowel is cut off with a simple pull chain and the process is repeated.

Stuff the holes with 150 grit sandpaper on the random orbital sander, gently sanding the visible particles of glue at this point.

I finished off the wood frame with a couple coats of brushed Spar urethane. I think the oil specified is better, so I use it.

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Coats are provided. Follow the directions on the can and apply multiple coats. If you take your time (read: it can take a few days), you can create a waterproof plastic system that’s nice and smooth. It’s tedious when done right, but the results are worth it.

On the other hand, if you’re feeling lazy, you can spray it with a few coats of spray paint and call it good!

I usually do this with bad furniture, but in this case I think it’s worth the extra time and effort.

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They are made from heavy cotton canvas with straps to hold them in place and inside I use pieces of anti-fatigue floormat for padding.

The pads are only 1/2 inch thick, but the dense foam provides nice cushioning without interfering too much with the seat’s finish.

The sleeve is a flat envelope that you can slide the bubble wrap into.

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One long side of each bottom piece is ironed twice half an inch and then sewn (see diagram above).

Ribbons 2.5 cm long are cut and prepared. For each seat cushion, two strips with sliders sewn into the end are cut 6 cm long and two more pieces 30 cm long.

All the cut ends of the webbing are briefly melted with a lighter to stop fraying.

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The bottom piece is placed on top and pinned to the inside of the outside edge.

The short edge is now sewn up. I sewed the second time to reinforce the seam.

Measured from the sewn edges, I placed 2 1/2″ marks on either side of the long sides, the straps will be sewn into these marks.

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Place the straps as shown and pin them on the long side. The straps must be attached to the sliders so that the sliders are in the desired position when the lid is turned right side out.

The long sides of the lid are now sewn together. The strap area is stitched 3 times to strengthen the connection.

The foam for the seat was cut on a cutting mat with a ruler and electric knife (use only one piece of foam for one seat).

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A foam is placed in the lid and the bottom of the lid is closed by hand.

The back of the chair is made from a cotton cloth that is nailed to the wooden table with stainless steel screws and washers.

The fabric for the back seat is cut and hemmed as shown in the picture. Look at the picture

How To Build A Campfire Chair