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English: Snooker table, designed exactly to scale. All done in a simple text editor. See below for a more detailed explanation.
How To Make Snooker Table
Esperanto: a snooker table designed with precise proportions. All graphics are created in a simple text editor. Here is a more detailed explanation.
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The diameter of the official ball is 52.5 mm, which is 2.07 inches. To make it easier, let’s assume 2 and divide everything by 26.25. The date comes from .
The diameter of the official balls is 52.5 mm, which is equal to 2.07 inches. For ease of calculation, we assume 2 and divide each number by 26.25. The transformed data comes from  and .
The diameter of the official balls is 52.5 mm, which is equal to 2.07 inches. For ease of calculation, we assume 2 and divide each number by 26.25. The transformed data comes from .
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Cue cue: At the beginning of the game, the cue ball is in hand and the player can place it anywhere on the letter “D”.
Added a rough estimate for custom pillowcases :). PD people stay – let them play ;).
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All dimensions are approximate in inches. The diameter of the ball is officially 52.5 mm, which is 2.06692913 inches. The pool table in this project is mainly made of medium density fiberboard (MDF) because it is durable and cheap. The lower part is equipped with a brick net so that the upper part does not swing. This table includes built-in compartments for shelves, candy sticks, and billiard trays. Walnut railings and light felt upholstery with gold trim add a touch of class.
1. Using a table saw and electric saw, cut the 4 x 8-foot ½-inch medium-density fiberboard (MDF) into narrow edges for four legs (two edges on one side for each leg). There is no exact angle for a taper. Cut a hole in the center of the duplicate side of each leg with a circular saw that forms a 2-inch edge (looks like a frame).
2. Cut two ¾-inch squares of MDF for each leg—the top is a 1-foot square and the bottom is a 6-inch square—and fold the edges. Cut the oak planks into 1 x 1-inch strips to accommodate the four corners of the narrow edges. Trace the stripes by mimicking the square. Everything for the legs must be glued and nailed in place.
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3. For the top bun, cut and glue three ¾-inch by 10-inch squares into a block. Clip and let dry. Cut a circle from the block (10 inches in diameter). Using a router and a chisel, form a convex edge on the bread. Follow the same process for the bottom loaf, but use three ¾-by-7-inch squares and create a concave design on the loaf. Sand if needed. Glue and nail everything in place. Repeat the process for all pins.
4. To create narrow edges, cut four pieces of MDF measuring 78 x 13 inches according to the angle of the legs. Cut a 2-inch-wide template from two of the four pieces. Then the molding process goes through the complete pieces of MDF. Repeat this process for the ends, but use 48″ x 13″ pieces and adjust the measurements accordingly. Apply the oak strips as described in step 2. Glue and nail in place.
5. When the sides are fully secured, glue the 1-inch strips of MDF to the inside edge of each corner.
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6. On one of the longer sides of the table, in the center, cut a 37-by-3-inch rectangle to prepare for the ball slot. This removed part becomes the back wall of the ball slot that is inside the table. For the outside, cut a rectangular frame from strips of oak: the top strip is 1 inch wide and about ½ inch from either side of the rectangular hole. ½ inch wide edge plus hole height; The bottom protrudes about 2 inches and slopes upward to hold the balls. Route the edges for style. The front edge will be ½ inch thick. Glue and nail in place.
8. With the ball holder on the right, using a hole saw, drill four 1.5-inch wide holes, 1 inch apart in the short end of the table and 3 inches apart in the bottom molding.
9. Each hole has a three-sided rectangular frame inside the table to hold the muscles. The sides are 3″ wide and about 60″ long and are cut from ¾” MDF. Glue the sides in place and glue around each corresponding hole to the board.
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10. Cut a rectangle of MDF 3 inches high, 1 foot wide and 2 inches high above the signal holes. At the bottom edge of this hole, you will nail and glue a post 9 inches long and 14 inches wide to hold the triangle. To hold the two corner edges of the triangle, drive a nail that fits snugly between the two pieces.
11. Cut four L-shaped pieces (about 3 x 3 inches) from ¾-inch oak to create guides for each spot in the corners. Find the fixed positions of the base, then rotate the guides so that the pins always find their correct position. Gently scrub everything with an orbital polisher.
12. Cut a ¾ inch MDF to fit the countertop with a circular saw. Extends 6 inches on each side (for rails and bumpers). Using a jigsaw, cut 6 4 7/8″ holes in the MDF (four corners, two in the center of the long sides) to create a half circle. All holes are angled at 90 degrees to accommodate the rails. Make a pattern for the corner pocket and middle pocket, then redraw several times. Fold the inside edge of each bag into a ¼-inch edge for the balls.
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13. The track is made of walnut boards. Each rail section is divided into three sections to simulate an inward curve towards the table. The top rail section is 2¾ inches wide, the corner section is 1½ inches, and the vertical section is 4 to 5 inches. An extra piece on the inside (about 1″ square at the end) that hides under the rail helps to attach the rail to the table. There are six tracks, two identical (ends) and four identical (sides) (approximately 3 feet each). Attach the rails with cookies and glue. Clip them and dry them.
14. Flip the MDF over and make a tile pattern with 10 inch squares using oak. Place this pattern on the middle MDF. This acts as a base for the board and helps to place it smoothly.
16. Remove the dry rail. Smooth curves with hand saws, planers and routers. Then use a salt orbital. Cut the rails into pieces to fit between the holes. Drill holes for pocket pins inside each pocket hole (12 holes total). Using hole punches, make a mold for consistency. Try to dry assemble the rails and bags and cut or sand if necessary.
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17. Remove the connecting rails, apply dark brown furniture wax on the rails and paint the underside of the table (legs and base) with dark brown latex paint.
18. Cut with a razor and spread the red felt on the table, smoothing it out as you go and gluing it in place. Pin it around the sides for extra support.
19. Start assembling rails and bags, moving around the perimeter. Work in small portions. Use bag bolts and then twist the bags from the bottom up until they fit snugly. Attach the rails and bags to the table with spray adhesive and nails.
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20. Cut the rubber gasket to fit the holes. Spread red felt over them, glue and staple, then spray glue on the inside edge of the table.
21. Cut and glue strips of white paper that have been sprinkled with gold on the edge of the path and the inner edge of the table.
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