How To Wire Electric Fan Motor – Task: Replacing the mechanical cooling fan with an electric suction fan. I was not satisfied with the small 12″ fan sold by Victory dealers, but the clearance between the radiator and the front frame rail (about 3.5″) is an issue. So choosing a fan to fit behind the radiator is very important.
After a lot of testing, I found that the PermaCool 16″ ‘regular’ fan fits perfectly. The fan is the right diameter so I can use machine screws to mount it to the edge of the radiator. No need to make a hard strap, it’s a simple bolt on installation. I would recommend not using cable through the radiator. These bearings are heavy, and over time the fans will bend and bend the fan. The fan kit comes with anti-vibration pads, and I use them.
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The only installation problem with this fan is that the radiator must be removed to install or remove the fan. The 16″ fan is $81.99 from Jegs (800/345-4545), part #771-19126. This fan blows 2250 CFM and draws 8 amps. Yes, it’s a monster, cooling TR. It’s guaranteed to do that. You can see. Find it at http://www.jegs.com/ and then find your way to the coolest part of the product page.
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Also, the crankshaft extension needs to be cut to 1.25″ and the crankshaft pulley bolts need to be shortened to 2.5″. Rearrange the bolt (18 threads/inch) to fit the end of the crankshaft Reinstall the crankshaft extension. Be sure to replace the dowels between the crankshaft pulley damper and the extension. Use safety wire bolts or don’t fasten.
I often don’t want to use the fancy thermoelectric switches sold with electric fan kits, because I’ve heard so many bad stories about them (cooling, etc.). So when the radiator came out I took it to a local radiator shop and had them install a downpipe and mount that I glued to the BMW thermoelectric switch. The switch is designed to turn on at 91C (195 F) and seems to turn off at 82C (180F, with my thermostat off). The BMW part (#1VT14AA231F1384272BMW 91c V2T) is quite expensive, but only $25 from NAPA (part #ECH-FS198). But what do you expect from BMW parts?
I followed the wiring diagram created by Scion and Victory list member Dan Masters (danmas on AOL.com). It was very easy to make using a small 3 position DPDT switch found at Radio Shack. The switch is small, and easy to hide – no need to drill a hole in the dashboard, I put it in a small metal lip behind the dashboard, under the steering wheel. I’m a real klutz in wiring, but this job was easy, and then, I arranged the wiring in the engine bay with tie wraps and split hoses that you can buy for this purpose. The entire helmet packaging looks very clean and something you can be proud of.
After the installation, I backed off the cooling system for about 30 minutes using one of those Pep Boys kits that let you hook up a garden hose to the heater pipe.
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I don’t use antifreeze, because it never gets cold in San Diego. Instead, I use my special mixture of distilled water, red water, and PanCool (which used to be NalCool). How does it work? Cloths should sit in traffic for 30 minutes in an air temperature of at least 85F before turning on the fan. At the advertised 195F (3/4 of the mark on my thermometer) the fan turns on and in less than 60 seconds, the temperature drops below 180F when the thermostat closes and the fan shuts off. it’s good! The fan did not come on while driving.
The real advantage of this mod is that under acceleration, I no longer hear the sound of the mechanical fan, just the sweet sound of the front six, being pushed through the 2″ pipe into the inner muffler. .A stationary bearing that stops spinning. The shaft bearing is clean.They have also been oiled and replaced with squarish capacitors but they still won’t spin.When I thought “…what’s the harm in cutting them, I can learn something from them…..!!”
I asked a few cops and all I got was a short “…there’s an internal thermal fuse…”. I’ve scoured the web for months but haven’t found any information on where the fuse is and how to replace it. In the end I decided to sacrifice the fan and cut all the winding wires.
(Note: I got a replacement 2A 130deg @$1.50SGD a piece from an electronics store. Sorry I don’t have the same part number for the Mouse, RS n Digikey)
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It would be wise to spend the money to buy a fan instead of a defective one and give it to someone you know. We are dealing with 250VAC, so be extra careful. You proceed at your own risk.
At this point, I assume you know and have verified that the timer and speed selector are working properly (ie, there is voltage at the output of the speed selector (gray, orange and red wires), diagrams and See pictures).
The color of the wire used in my fan may be different from yours, so write it down.
3. Take your time to trace the wiring and note its color and location. It should look like the diagram above.
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4. Using the spare wire, connect the “A” to “B” terminal to turn off the fuse. In my case, “A” was the blue “neutral” wire on the terminal block and “B”, the gray wire on the large square capacitor.
Once you’re done, make sure your fan (without the blades) is resting properly and securely when we go to turn it on.
5. Connect the fan motor and turn it on. If the fuse is bad, the motor will spin, what was mine. If it doesn’t, it uses point “C” instead of “B”, because you won’t know which terminal it is. don’t worry
6. Disconnect the power. Move the indicator “C” to “B” and turn on the blower again. If it still doesn’t spin, it’s probably a capacitor.
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2. De-solder (or cut) the wires at the terminals of the capacitor and attach a new capacitor (of the same type).
3. Turn on the fan. If the motor still refuses to spin, I’m sure the problem is in the motor windings and it’s time to say goodbye to the fan.
1. To facilitate the replacement of the fuse, remove the motor from the control unit, leaving as much wiring as possible. The harness has 5 wires going to the motor home. After tracing this connection to the engine housing, I terminated the ground (green/yellow) and neutral (blue) wires at one terminal block and the other three (gray, orange, red) at the speed selector.
2. Remove the ground and neutral wires (no need to cut) from the terminal block. Clean the gray, orange and red wires on the speed selector, paying attention to where they are first.
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(You may have noticed that I cut the entire harness about 10cm from the motor… big mistake… but that was before I decided to do it!)
3. Using a flat-head screwdriver as a pry bar, pry the housing mounting rod from the control unit.
5. Remove the metal housing screws. Carefully remove the rotor and windings from the control slowly with sufficient slack.
6. The windings are wound with wire and sealed with some kind of lacquer. We need to cut some of them using a pen knife or sharp scissors (see point “X” in the picture). Find the bulge (where the fuse is) and note where it ends.
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7. Carefully cut the black paper cover to reveal the woven pattern, which is also tied with wire.
8. Trace the blue wire to the wiring harness. You will notice that it ends up inside the larger instrument at the top. This is our goal. Cut the string tied to this instrument.
9. This large instrument, which is flat, holds the fuse and another covered wire. Use your fingers to lift and press the sides to create a tube shape.
10. With a pry, press and pull, slowly remove the sheath and the fuel fuse will be exposed. Keep the removed instrument for future use.
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11. Note that one fuse lead is also covered to prevent electrical contact. Cut the side of this instrument to a length of 10mm. Shoot through this cut.
12. After both leads open, cut them as close to the fuse as possible. This will give us enough time to solder a new fuse.
17. Install the new fuse assembly into the windings as snugly as possible. Fold back the black cover and wire. Make sure there is no wire or black cover sheet protruding from the rotor area.
21. Clothing
