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Factory Customized Fabric Screen Printing Frame – 6 Color 6 Station Screen Printing Machine – Giami Description:
How To Make Screen Printing Table
To adjust the binding screen, loosen the two upper handles and move the binding from right to left, back, front, up and down. No need to open the screen directly.
Color 1 Station Silk Screen Printing Machine Steel Hot Press Hand Tools 21.7 X 17.7 Inch Diy Kit Prensa For T Shirt Equipment
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The factory can meet the ever-growing economic and market demands so that their products are widely known and trusted, that's why we chose this company. This project came about because I wanted to make t-shirts that could represent and wear me. Makerspace at Maker Faire Atlanta. I didn't want to pay online prices for cheap clothes, so I decided to make my own screen print. The process was easy and better than I expected.
Desktop Vacuum Uv Screen Exposure Units
To start, I needed a picture of the shirt. I took our makerspace logo and added our location and website address along with “What will you be doing today?” Added maker text. The shirt has a beautiful yet simple design. To print adult and youth sizes, I decided to make two screens of different sizes. Trying to use the same size for both doesn't look good on my samples. The actual figure is about 12 inches for adult size shirts and about 9 inches for youth size shirts. The design will be printed on the back of the shirt and I will also print a small image of the logo on the front chest of the shirt. The smallest logo is about 2.5 inches.
To make screen prints, I needed frames. I took the measurements of the photos and added a few inches of buffer space around them to come up with the frame size. Adult size is 16″x16″, youth frame is 12″x12″, small frame is 7″x7″. This will give me enough room to work with the photos on the frames later and still have room to cover the neck to stop the bleeding.
The frames were made from scrap wood from my shop. The poles for the larger frames are from 2×2 stock (1.5″x1.5″ nominal). This creates a heavy, sturdy frame with multiple lips to hold the ink while printing. After measuring and cutting the pieces, I glued and crocheted them. Now they are ready to install the screen.
Photo Emulsion Screen Printing
The screen I use is 110 mesh fabric. I found a yard of this fabric on eBay for less than $10. Cut a piece of fabric for each fabric leaving enough overhang to cover the frames. I attached the screen fabric to the frames with a staple gun. This part is easier if you have two more hands to help because you need to make sure the screen is under pressure.
The easiest way I've found to press the screen is to place it between opposite sides of the frame and put a staple between each side. Then rotate the frame 90 degrees and repeat. Now repeat the process of adding from the center of each side, gradually working your way to the corners. By alternating the sides and centering them, you reduce the risk of uneven pressure on the screen. At the corners, lower the screen into place as cleanly as possible. Trim the excess to the edge of the frame, being careful not to cut or damage the top of the screen.
I used Speedball Photo Emulsion to make my screen. Follow the instructions on the bottle to mix the two bottles together to use the photosensitive chemicals. These chemicals are harmful to your skin, so wear gloves. When the photo emulsion is thoroughly mixed, use a squeegee to apply a smooth coat to your frames. You will need to alternate the inside and outside of the frame to ensure an even and smooth coat. It was a very confusing process. I'm either using too much emulation, or pushing too much through the display, or both. By the time I drew the third frame I was starting to get a better feel for what to do. Make sure you have sheets or clothing to protect you from any heat.
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After closing the screen, you need to dry it in a dark place. I put mine inside a cardboard box on the risers so I could tape it to keep the light from going off. It needs to be stored in a dark place to prevent photo emulsion treatment.
Since I had two large frames that would take time to cure, I wanted to expose them at the same time. To do this, I created a double exposure rig using some scrap wood, some short extension cords, a light bulb adapter, and a foil casserole pan. I first glued each foil panel, which would be my outline, to one of the three-foot sticks. Then I burned the extra strings in the center of the pan and wrapped the strings around the wood. I connected it to a powered extension cord using an adapter. Light bulb adapters are attached to the extension cords between each light bulb. I used 150 watt bulbs to cure the photo emulsion. This whole rig is suspended above my work table by a strong wire. I removed one side to stabilize the rig and prevent it from moving or turning.
To transfer my image to the screen, I printed the design on a transparency. My design was larger than the standard 8 1/2×11 paper so the images had to be split across multiple pages. I arranged the raised images and assembled the pages with clear packing tape. When testing my brightness, I wasn't sure the light from my lighting fixture would cover well enough. I'm not sure if it's the quality of my laser printer, the plain printing, or both. To solve this problem, I print two sets of blanks and assemble them into two parts. I also touched up a few empty spaces with a black permanent marker. This gave me a very clear mask design.
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After the photo emulsion dries on the screens in a dark place, you can go ahead and show the photo on your screen. I placed the screens under my exposure rig and adjusted the exposure by carefully centering the frames. Remember to place them on the back as this side of the frame will be closest to the fabric when printing. I used pieces of glass from picture frames to cover the exposed frame. With the size of the frame, the light bulbs, and the distance I used, I was able to capture 1 hour and 15 minutes.
After the treatment time, you will see a color difference on the screen. The lightest shade is the emulsion covered with a clear print and unprotected. These bright spots can be washed with cold water. It will take a few minutes to clear the area. It is best to use the spray nozzle from your dishwasher to expel the non-consolidated emulsion. A fine brush or an old toothbrush may be needed to clean small, sensitive areas. Be careful in a small area to ensure that the treated material is not removed. Check your screen by looking at the light source to make sure parts of the image are bright and your edges are clean and clear.
Now your screen is ready, you want
