How To Make Removable Table Legs

How To Make Removable Table Legs – A country table is one of my favorite pieces of furniture and will always have a special meaning to me!

Farmhouse tables are the reason I learned to make furniture, they opened me up to the DIY world which I love and made me realize I might as well have a blog.

How To Make Removable Table Legs

I started my first small business by opening an old wedding rental company, and tables were the main thing that was rented.

Foldable Woodgrain Lap Table

Brandon and I built a beautiful 20 x 8 cedar country table. Here is a picture of one of them along with some of the rentals I offer:

I no longer run an antique rental business and have sold the Farmhouse Table to another rental company, but my love of furniture making continues and I'm glad we finally shared the projects. Farmhouse Table Build that we use to make 20+ Farmhouse Table Used to make. What I love about these projects is that the table legs are easy to remove! So if you move around a lot (or want to make them for your business) and need them portable, these plans work wonders!

The plans I'm offering are for a 6ft x 40w country table using 2x thick lumber, but they can be adapted for any size table and different thicknesses of wood. The farmhouse table in the pictures below is a table that Brandon and I made for my brother, sister-in-law, and nephew. I've also included a picture at the end of our original country table that we still use in the kitchen today!

How To Attach Table Legs — Blacktail Studio

Note, if you are building a farm table for a rental company, I recommend using 1x thicker wood. Cedar is more beautiful and lighter than pine. This makes moving the table even easier!

It's important to choose the straightest wood you can find, as this will help you assemble the table. Reduce. Note, for the table top we start with an extra inch on each side that will be reduced later.

To install the top boards of the table, use a circular saw and cut 1/4″ from the side edges of all boards except for the two outer edges of the table top. We used vertical guides for this. you can use table saw guides or even buy straight cut guides On another in the picture below you can see the difference between the straight saws on the right compared to the circular saws on the right left NOTE: square/straight edges and you don't need this step.

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Place the table top panels in the correct order (make sure the two outer pieces are on the ends) and mark the order on the ends of the panels with a #. Then turn the boards over and mark where you will drill the pocket holes. It is best to space them 8″ – 12″ apart and alternate each board. Also, make sure you stay a few inches away. I wish I had a better picture of the distant kreg markers, but I've added arrows to the picture below to give you an idea of ​​the placement.

Use your kreg template (found here) and drill the marked holes in the table tops.

*Tip: Check out my How to Use a Kreg Jig post for a simple, step-by-step guide and video tutorial on using the Kreg Jig!

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Then, using wood glue and kregs, assemble one panel at a time (make sure each panel is assembled in the correct order). 48 inch long clamps help with this part.

To get straight ends, use a circular saw and cut 1 inch off the top ends of the table. The picture below is a bad picture, but it gives you an idea of ​​what this step looks like!

Use the kreg template and drill three pocket holes around the two side aprons. At the bottom of the chart, mark halfway (36″) from the side, then mark 3 inches from that point. The central edge of the side apron should be attached here. Then mark the center point of the side apron (28.5 inches). Match the center point of the side apron with the center point you marked on the side of the table. Attach with screws and wood glue (make sure the side apron fits snugly and is within 3″ of the edge). Repeat on the other side.

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On one of the squares of each table leg, use a 45 degree bevel router and run the bevel at least 3 inches.

Place the legs and corner brackets on the side aprons as shown in the picture below. Then measure the distance from the bracket to the end of the table (it should be 6.5 inches). Repeat on the other side and make sure the distance from the bracket to the end of the table is the same, so that your two corner brackets are equal from the end of the table. Attach the brackets to the table top using 1-inch wood screws inserted into the two bottom corner holes. Repeat in a different way.

Raise the table legs with the side aprons and corner brackets. Then measure the inside distance from one table leg to the other to find the exact size of the end apron. Repeat at the end of the opposite table. Next, cut your 2×4 aprons to size, drill three pocket holes in them, and attach them to the table using wood glue and kreg scissors. Be careful, as shown in the second picture below, to line up the end aprons and mark where you want the three pocket holes to be so you can sew them. ‘table Avoid drilling cracks or other holes for pockets.

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Insert screws into the remaining holes in the corner brackets to attach the corner brackets to the side apron and end apron.

Measure the exact distance between the side aprons and cut the three center 2×4 bars to size. Add two pocket holes at the end of the straps and attach the side aprons to the bottom of the table using wood glue and pegs. I forgot to take a picture of the bracket attachment…

Use a small pencil and mark where the corner holes are on the table for the angled legs. It also helps to write the table legs and, if you want, the aprons with A, B, C, D so they match well.

Modern Hourglass Table Leg Design Plans

Use a drill and drill a 90 degree hole in the bevel where you made the holes. It is very important that the holes are drilled at a 90 degree angle, otherwise the leg will be crooked. Next, attach the hanger bolts into the holes using a hanger bolt screwdriver.

Give your farm table a makeover and it's ready to dress, paint and finish! Here is the final result:

Here is a picture of the original country table that is still in our kitchen today and was our test build to find the best way to build a country table with removable legs:

Stalwart Industrial Single Folding Table Leg Fold3043x3

I hope these building plans detailing how to build a farmhouse table with removable legs were helpful! For a tutorial on how I stain and finish all the farmhouse tables we've made, you can check out my How to Stain Wood post. we used minwax

I'd love to see your version of this build! Feel free to share photos with me on Instagram, Facebook or email: [email protected]!

Be sure to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest to see my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

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When you did them at weddings did you know how many seats each table had (how many seats does a 2 meter table have?)

Yes, they fit 4 seats on each side and 1 on the other side, so a maximum of 10 seats.

So it is possible for me, but you say to make the apron 3″ from the edge of the table, but you say it will be 6″ from the corner of the leg? So are all the sides and ends of the apron 3″ from each edge?

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Sorry for the misunderstanding! Only the longer side of the apron is 3″ from the edge. The shorter side will be about 5″ from the edge because the metal bracket sits 6.5″ back from the edge (and the wood is 1.5″ thick). Hope that makes sense!

Have you had problems with balance or movement? I've seen many DIY farmhouse tables made with a cross between the legs around ankle/knee height.

Out of the 22+ farm tables I've built this way, only 2 have wobbled because the wood was wrong. To fix this we adjusted about 1/4″ or so from one leg to the

Ways To Attach Table Legs