How To Make A Chair Woodworking – You don't need fancy, expensive furniture to create this chair. Read on to find out how.
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How To Make A Chair Woodworking
Fitting a sofa can be difficult because it needs to look and feel good. That's why I based my chair on a time-tested pattern from the 1960s – and it's an impressive one.
Wooden Kneeling Chair
Of course, you can create this Selig chair with a store full of beautiful fireworks. But you can handle it with the equipment you already have or invest a little in some new equipment.
I ordered custom made cushions from Joybird, the company that makes this chair. The size of the seat cushion determines some seat sizes. You can buy your pads there and know they will fit.
I fell in love with traditional crafts many years ago. I love restoring them and working with them, so I used a lot for this project. But you don't need to be handy to make this chair. A little common, modern power tools will allow you to do everything you need and connect.
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To customize your chair for a unique look, start with a rough mock-up using scraps. You will have your perfect angles and measurements. If you change the size, you need to have a custom made ladder.
When you are ready, make a complete drawing. I make it in white melamine. Alterations are easily made by simply erasing the pencil marks with mineral spirits.
Print the templates full size, then cut them from 1/2-in. Medium density fiberboard (MDF) with a jigsaw or band saw, close to the line. Carefully sand your products, giving yourself as much time as you need to make them perfect. The router's system configuration will follow them accordingly.
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If you don't have a router or desktop, don't worry. I'll walk you through some of the options as we go along.
Trace your pattern onto your board, then cut them out no more than 1/8-inch. Out of line it deals less damage, making stage 3 easier. If you are not using a router with the model, you still need to build a signal. Place them on your board and cut them out with a band saw or jigsaw.
Fasten the pattern to the cut section with one-inch brad nails or finish nails. Cut off the excess, using a smaller form factor on your router or router table. Remove the pattern, add to the next solid cut piece and continue.
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If you're not using a router, sand your parts in line instead. To do this, use a belt sander, side sander, pole sander, or all of the above. For tight spokes, if you don't have a dowel, you'll need a round file or sandpaper wrapped around the dowel.
Test the fit where the front legs and rear support meet the joint points of the rear legs. Those joints go on the outside of the rear footboard, so they should be perfect. If you need to make any adjustments, touch up the piece with a sanding block, disc pad, or side sander.
Once you have the fit, mark each joint where the dowels will go. Stick your dowel jig into the top of the joint, aligning the registration marks with the marks you made. Then dig your holes. I used two 3/8-in. Dowel holes at each joint. Use a small point for this.
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Dry-adjust the dowel joint to make sure everything is properly aligned. Make sure you use dowels made for the attachment, not dowels from the hardware store. The joint's dowels are rotated, allowing the glue to escape through the dowel holes when the joint is pressed together. Smooth joints prevent glue from escaping and can prevent joints from sealing.
Once you have the fit, glue the dowels and the top of the joint, insert the dowels and press the joint together. Use pipe clamps to screw them to the housing. Block blocks attached to the sections prevent the pipe clamp from slipping. Glue only one joint at a time so you don't rush.
When the glue is dry, radius all sharp edges with 3/8-in. Round-over bit. If you don't have a router, you can easily do this with a manual tool. A rasp, belt sander, orbital sander, hand plane, scissors, or any combination of these tools is fair game. Avoid elbow contact at this time.
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Create a 5/32-in. x 1/2 inch grooves in the center of each part of the seat frame. The best method is to make two passes with a 1/8-in. Bit on a solid router on the leading edge. This way you can create a solid groove in the side frame. Otherwise, you can make these grooves on a table saw and then fill the gap.
Using your dowel jig, drill dowel holes in all parts of the chair frame. Test fit, then add glue and dowels. When the glue dries, bend the back side to 75 degrees.
Staying outside the line, cut the seat back bar to the finished size. Then sand them to a line and round the edges 1/4-in. Round-over bit, sanding block or plane block.
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Cut the back and front pieces, fixing the front piece as shown in the pattern. Just go to the bottom edge of the front panel and bevel the top edge to 75 degrees. After going around the back panel, drill seven identical 1/4-in. Dowel holes on one side of each back panel in the center of its thickness.
Use dowel centers and 1/4-in. Spacers to locate dowel holes in the bars (Figure 11A), then drill a 1/4-in. Dowel holes at ends of spindles. You can set up a vertical drilling jig on your drill press or make them free.
Glue all the pins to the bottom layer, then attach the top layer (Figure 11B). For such a complex assembly with many joints, I use hidden glue because it has a lot of open time.
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Place the assembled side on your workbench and place the arm rest in place. Copy the angle from the back joint area to the end of the arm rest using a sliding T-bevel. Cut the angle with a meter.
As shown in the pattern, the arms get thicker from the back to the front. I used a band saw to cut this tape. If you don't have one, you can cut the tape with one hand or just a belt-sand. Do not design the back-armrest joint area.
With the armrest in place, find the armrest under the machine so you also know to stay away from that area. Now you can smooth out the folded sleeves, round the edges and call it good. Or you can “mount” the top, as I did (Figure 13A), and give the bottom part a smooth one (Figure 13B). Grind the surface with a disc sanding wheel on a grinder.
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Dry seat without dowels using narrow pipes and mark the location of each section on the side of the joint. Mark and drill dowel holes in the seat frame and stretcher.
With the seats disassembled, set the drilled parts to the side of the seat and mark the dowel locations with the dowel centers. Drill dowel holes into the seat frame. Apply glue to the dowels and top joint and attach the rear frame to the seat on one side. Glue the dowels to the seat frame and the other end of the stretcher and press the other edge of the dowels.
Additionally, use a glue stick to give yourself more time. Use a pipe clamp to press the joint down to the housing.
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The back joint is a standard dowel joint. First drill the rear seat with a doweling jig, then mark the location of the handle in the center of the dowel. Next, place the dowel in the back hole, hold the handle in position, and follow the corner of the dowel to the side of the handle. This will give you information on how to dig a hole by hand. I used a 3/8-in. Dowel in these restaurants.
Glue the dowel to the joint and to the next joint. Click on the link together. Use masking tape to hold the front of the handle in place and let the glue dry.
Shape and filter all joint transition points. Use whatever you have: sandpaper, belt sander, rasps, files and/or sanding blocks.
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Once the shape passes the eye test, sand the entire seat and apply the finish of your choice. I sanded it to 800 and applied five coats of General Finish gel topcoat. It's easy to use and you don't have to worry about leaks or sags. But it doesn't develop quickly, so you have to use more coats than brushes.
Cut three pieces of mesh to go across the seat and three pieces to go in front
