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How To Build A Router Table Fence – Many years ago I bought a used router and thought it would make it easier to cut long edges and sharpen faster. However, I quickly abandoned the router table after frustrating attempts to replace the bits with poor results as the router bit is not flat and not completely flush with the table top.
I recently got my hands on a new Rockler Pro Lift milling lift, so I decided to build a custom milling table and fence with integrated T-rails and a dust collector.
How To Build A Router Table Fence
The router table I built is larger than most commercial router tables – 36 inches by 24 inches – which gives the workpiece a large, flat surface.
Incra Tools :: Precision Fences :: Router Fence & Table Combos
I cut a piece of 5/8″ melamine for the top, and a piece of 3/4″ plywood to reinforce the top. I cut both pieces to 36 x 24 inches, cutting the plywood a little proud so I could trim the edges when the two pieces were laminated together.
I used Rockler’s ProLift router lift, which has some really great features. It has a button that allows the throat plate to pop out for easy access to parts. Another neat feature is the lifter itself: one stage allows you to micro-adjust the height of the bit, while the other allows you to fully lift the cutter so you can easily change the bit.
I started by measuring the insert plate and then roughly marked it to be at top dead center. I followed the contour with the lift facing my tracks.
Router Table Fence Options
The insert plate must be lowered so that it sits on its edge. After following the counter to the router elevator, I found a small box in the first one. I hemmed the corners and left a little space in the corners where the insert slides onto the table. This also allows me to add some leveling screws to each corner later.
I cut out the inner box with my jigsaw. I made embossed holes with a drill to make it easier to cut the corners.
I made some temporary fences that I taped with double sided tape just above the contour lines.
Router Table & Storage Cabinet 1
I then used a top bearing leveling bit to countersink the router bit that runs along the fence. I set the drill to the correct depth and then turned it clockwise.
After a test fit, I noticed that the milling insert is located a little below the table top, so I use these furniture sliders as leveling screws, so I can adjust it perfectly. It’s very easy, just drill holes in the corners, tap in the plastic insert and attach the legs to the bottom.
Many commercial tables have a protractor slot on the front of the table, but I have never used a protractor with my table. Also, I like the t-grooves for the tongue boards etc. I went ahead and attached another temporary fence to the rope, then used the t-rail as a spacer and secured the other fence on the opposite side, being careful not to press it so that the rail still slides freely. Once my temporary fence was in place, I set up my countersunk attachment and went to town.
Simple Router Table
I also added 2 small T-rails to the back of the table to hold the fence in place and allow it to move back and forth. I marked the T-rails evenly on both sides and carefully cut two aluminum T-rails with my miter saw.
I repeated the same process as before to cut the dado, but marked the stop with a piece of tape so I wouldn’t go too far.
I used welding glue to glue the rails. This is an adhesive that sticks to both chipboard and metal. I sealed the rails with some dowels and let them dry for 24 hours.
Router Table & Storage Cabinet 13
My idea was to laminate the top of the melamine with plywood to make it more solid and flat. This helps increase the thin rim that handles the lift of the rotor and the weight of the router itself. To reposition the cutout, I laid both pieces flush and drew an opening on the plywood. Then I was able to cut out the hole with my jigsaw.
I finished by getting the edges nice and flush with my router and leveler.
In the end, I decided to cover the sides of the table with hardwood trim to protect the fine edges and give the table a more polished look. I marked where the rails met the edges of the table and cut a board into the upholstery to make sure I could still insert the T-bolts once the upholstery was in place. I didn’t want a visible nail, so I just kept the decoration on with glue and mostly masking tape.
How To Make A Benchtop Router Table
With the tabletop finished, I moved on to the fence. For the fence, you will need two strips of plywood and one strip of melamine, each about 36 inches long.
Just like with the table, I put t-rails in the fence so I can easily use the springboards. As before, I lowered one fence and used the pitch as a spacer to push against the other fence. This time I used my stronger router, which made the job a lot easier and I didn’t get the tearing that I did with the trim router.
After dry fitting and checking that the rail was below the surface, I attached the rail with welder’s glue. You can also use epoxy or screws, which will probably be faster since it doesn’t need as much time to dry. Anyway, I used my dowel trick to seal the rail and let it dry for 24 hours.
Router Table Jigs For Better Results
For the fence, I use a dust hole that is specifically made to fence the milling table, so I have to drill a hole in the fence so that the dust can come directly from the fence and the piece on the table. go through, I just used a hole saw for this and then finished the cut with the table saw.
I attach the fence with glue and nails. My main goal here is to get the front of the fence perfectly flat and square. Because of this, I added these little triangles and checked the square as I went along.
I attached the dust hole with welding glue, which should stick to both plastic and wood, and so far it seems to be doing the trick. You can always make this dust vent out of wood, but I found it on Amazon for only a few bucks, so I skipped that step.
Benchtop Router Table
I drilled a hole in the front of the melamine and then took it to my table saw and used the saw fence to make sure the fence was flat and square on the table. I added some screws to the back of it, making sure the screws don’t hit the t-rail.
Well, the last step is to close the table. Once the fence was in place, I made a mark along the rails so I could drill the holes. I made the hole a little bigger than the screw I used to allow a little more wiggle room.
Actually, I only use toilet screws, because you can buy a package at any hardware store. You can use a washing machine with a star button. Just make sure you have the same thread, in my case 5/16.
Router / Assembly Table Using Incra Lsp And Wonder Fence (removable) As Well As The Microjig Matchfit System. Already Putting It To Use.
This completed the first part of the building. Make sure that part 2 where I made the base cabinet has collected the dust and we can see this routing table in action.
Hexagon Cutting Template | woodDrill Storage Rack Angle Clamp Cut from JigDIY Storage Cabinet The rotor lifter, extension table, dust collector and fence work as I expected. I don’t mean this condescendingly or condescendingly. I’ve taken what I’ve learned from all the previous router table setups to design a very simple router table that incorporates everything I love from the previous setups and adds features I’d like to have. If you haven’t seen my Quick Release Router Lift or Table Router Table Extension Wing, you should check them out first. The last piece of the puzzle was the router table fence.
I have plans for those interested.
Router Table Build, Part 4
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