(wow) Words Of Wonders Level 1415 Answers – The stunning new collection from the Ferdinand Berthoud family is not just a collection of watches, but many collections. The launch of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS watch is also an introduction to the brand's business strategy. The Chopard Group, owned by Swiss boutique watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud, will focus on creating limited edition movements going forward, and then decide on watch-based watches like each other.
Ferdinand Berthoud did not invent this model, but it is unusually applicable to today's luxury watches, because a reliable mechanism is a valuable thing, to increase the production time, since the company manufactures to make money. The promise of a limited edition of 20 pieces of each movement means that Ferdinand Berthoud must undergo a year of development and testing before commercializing a new movement. Considering these costs, plus the fact that Ferdinand Berthoud only produces 20-25 watches per year, the typical half million dollar prices of these watches start to look like a relative bargain.
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However, what Ferdinand Berthud has to prove is that he can keep his promises to his customers. If the move is limited to 20 pieces, but Ferdinand Berthoud considers a different colored bridge or a small decorative difference to be a “new move”, this strategy idea will no longer exist. A brand like Ferdinand Berthoud can only survive in the long term by strictly adhering to the policy of fairness towards consumer expectations. In this connection, Ferdinand Berthoud celebrates his fifth anniversary this year. The brand's inspiration comes from a distinguished historical past, but the modern style is the brainchild of the family that operates the Chopard watch brand.
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So, before I tell you about the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS (Standing for Regulator Skeleton or Regulator Squelette) watch in a carburized octagonal steel case, the Ferdinand Berthoud caliber FB-T. Let's talk about FC's limited edition of 20 pieces. RS hand wounds internal movement. This beautiful creation has never looked better as it is now skeletonized and exposed, while maintaining a high level of structural integrity. Remember that FB actions usually have a guard and chain drive mechanisms. These are modern versions of an old technology that help the watch maintain its time accuracy (isochronism). It involves a handmade chain of around 800 parts and takes a master watchmaker at least six hours to carefully assemble (not including melting time). The chain has a lot of tension, so a gentle movement won't do it easily.
The FB-T.FC-RS runs at 3Hz (21,600 rpm) with a power reserve of 53 hours. The barrel is one of the unique parts of the movement because it doesn't really have upper and lower bridges. While not thin in the grand scheme of things, given the movement's complexity and specs, the movement is actually quite nice at 10mm thick. Remember that the FB-T.FC-RS drive chain consists of 1,158 parts, most of which are carefully handcrafted. It also shows. Ferdinand Berthoud pointed out where the world's most mature watches reside in markets such as the US, Europe and Japan. Although the name is still a few years away from international recognition, the brand has made significant progress.
The FB-T.FC-RS is a skeleton version of Ferdinand Berthoud's modular model. The dial design was inspired by Ferdinand Berthud's original chronometer produced for a client in 1768. The movement shows the time in a separate diagram of hours (actually a rotating disc), minutes and seconds displayed by the main dial. The dial also has a detailed power reserve indicator, has an anti-wobble skeleton spring and uses a classic style crown control visible below the watch.
The FB-T.FC-RS movement also has a wide opening for touring. It is mounted on a very complicated bridge, while the tourbillon is actually set “exactly” to the year of the watch. When dialing the FB RS watch, the user notices that the rear view of the tour is “normal”. From a watch engineering perspective, it makes more sense to place the tourbillon cage “behind” the movement where you would normally find it in a mechanical system. In addition to the tourbillon, the movement has the aforementioned fuser and chain transmission system that transfers power from the mainspring to the gear train. The wearer can see parts of this system through sapphire crystal windows on either side of the watch case.
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The combined effort earned him the Ferdinand Berthoud Movement Watch Award, as well as COSC certification for the FB-T.FC-RS Chronometer. The crown of the watch offers an elegant and predictable touch-wind experience, and the crown is equipped with a ceramic “billion” bearing the brand's logo.
Ferdinand Berthoud will present the FB-T.FC-RS movement in a graphic case or a new round case. Each is a good choice with its own unique look. The round casing shape is the FB 2RS.2 reference, while the carbide steel octagonal casing is the FB 1RS.6 reference. What is carburized steel? According to Ferdinand Berthoud, it is a surface treatment process on the metal that gives it a very scratch-resistant surface – almost like a sapphire crystal. It has a sleek industrial finish in titanium grey. At first I considered titanium (as opposed to steel).
The case is 44 mm wide, 14 mm thick and water resistant to 30 meters. Reducing the water resistance was very difficult for Ferdinand Berthoud due to the shape of the casing and the nature of the carburation process which affects the durability. The base adds a layer of metal, which means that the parts of the container do not fit tightly together. Ferdinand Berthoud uses very serious screws on the feet to hold the watch case firmly in place to meet modern expectations of watch case water resistance.
Despite its high level of accuracy, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS is not a wearable watch that will add to the ease of use of the watch. The organizer-style display works effectively, but no one would argue that the FB RS has the legitimacy of a sports watch. Think how few beats it takes to tell the time. This is a watch collection for the experienced, mature watch lover who owns a wide range of watches and is ready for something custom made that is very unique. The ergonomics are good and the style of these watches is evident when you put one on your wrist. There are very few other watches that I instantly love the moment you put them on. In my opinion, this has to do with how beautifully the cabinet contrasts with the curves and lines of the human anatomy, as well as how clearly the many glossy surfaces play with light.
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The alligator strap features a folding titanium clasp (optional custom pin buckle available) with the brand's signature micro-adjuster, offering three positions for a contained size. The strap is comfortable, according to Ferdinand Berthoud, who likes to make customers any number of straps in different materials and colors.
Note that the exclusive Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS watch is an example and has minor issues. It should be noted that the “10/10” limited edition will not be available as the number of moves is limited. So the movement will have the number “XX/20” on top of the barrel.
In my estimation, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS collection is still one of the best – if only for its ability to make good use of the dial space, allowing the very useful cases to shine on their own. And then, of course, there is the surface finish of the beautiful movement (and different color), which is very much presented in different parts of the skeleton. Not everyone will like the design, even if they appreciate quality and craftsmanship. At worst, the dial elements may make some viewers feel that the FB.1RS.6 (FB 1RS.61) is a soup of mismatched beautiful watch parts. But that's okay; The concept of this device was originally intended for navigation purposes, so it is not surprising that it is everywhere. The price of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS Regulator Skeleton watch is US$247,000 for the octagonal steel case and US$256,500 for the 18K gold round case. Find out more on Ferdinand Berthoud's website.