(wow) Words Of Wonders Level 2612 Answers – Weekend Edition The best Audemars Piguet release we haven't covered (and AP mocks its CPO program) is Zevdate Rexhepi's first watch.
Get up close with the Bremont ENG300 for a detailed look at the British brand's new movement.
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This afternoon, the British watch company will introduce to the world the ENG300, a 65-hour automatic with a heavy silicon escapement and components manufactured in “The Wing”, a newly opened watch facility. Was that going to be his number? but it is not so.
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Therefore, I hope you will forgive me for saying that this has been one of the most difficult watch-related articles. There are two reasons.
The first is that it would be dangerous for a journalist watching in Great Britain to report on the Bremont movement. I've known the brand and many of its people, especially the founders Nick and Giles English, for about 15 years. We were both younger and more inexperienced than before, and we've grown a lot together, especially technically. I can't say I'm as indifferent to the story of this new band as I would be to any other similar watch, perhaps any other type of watch. To be honest, I would be happy if ENG300 was a box office hit.
If the disclosure is correct, maybe I should add more stories. Two weeks ago I was at the Bremont Manufacturing and Technology Center – “The Wing” and spoke with Nick, Bremont MD Chris Reynolds and several of the company's senior engineers. These included chief technology officer Michael Bellamy, whose 30-year CV includes the establishment of 54 workshops, and stints at Rolex, Richemont and Audemars Piguet, where he qualified to work on the brand's perpetual calendar. I spent an hour on Zoom last week with my new Bremont friends, but I won't spoil it by saying who or why they're important (a lot) right now. We'll get to that.
It has to be said that Bremont officials are a bit nervous about how the ENG300 will be received. They've already been burned (no need to say more about that, but we'll get to that as well) and it's encouraged me not to take hot coals in this story. While they were more open and shared than any other brand before them about how they built their movement, they asked me not to share the things I saw and heard – including some IP that they want to dry up. With respect, yes, with chastity, I respected him. And, of course, he didn't see the story before it came out on the floor, and, given my good judgment, I might call him if he does. . Don't worry, I'll be fine, and thanks for your concern.
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The second is simply to say that it is difficult to have a line based on the lean business of making new watches. Mechanical watchmaking may be a 300-year-old sport, but it's still very challenging.
This is not the story we expected. Let's start five, maybe six years ago. I honestly don't remember the first time I heard that Bremont was making a band. Since then it has been told many times, each time raising expectations, becoming a definitive part of the brand's story. Arms have been opened and closed, machines have been bought and sold, countless watches have been introduced, but so far there has been no sign of the Bremont movement.
Stephen McDonnell, Irish watchmaker and movement designer.management management management management management management management management first management system The steering wheel is twice the steering wheel of a modern tractor. Which can be made in British factories, and in a way that Bremont can claim as its own.
As the years went on, it became clear that Bremont was easier to build a movement from the ground up with McDonnell's locksmithing prowess. The Swiss would know that. Their factory floor is littered with failed attempts to make a moving machine. But they don't always have much to share…
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Bremont didn't know that. Or, if they did, they probably didn't want to hear it. Being obsessed with fame has that effect. During my visit, Nick English was the first to admit that the McDonnell administration is too complex to industrialize on the scale and cost he wants. it happens
That, just because we're here, doesn't mean it won't see the light of day. Bremont says it's still a work in progress, and when it arrives, it will be produced in very limited quantities and feature expensive high-end watches. ENG300 experience can help. What is a Bremont watch and its Bremont customers are questions for another day.
There's only good money to put after bad. And you can only hold people back until they think you're cheating, or that you've failed. Two and a half years ago, Bremont appointed architect Chris Reynolds as managing director. Reynolds came from the less romantic world of electronics, working as operations manager at Parvalux, and brought with him not only the skills to organize a production facility, but also other requirements.
Under his leadership and through businesses linked to Bremont, the company began negotiations with The +, an independent Bien agency founded in 2019, but also known as Momo + and Dial anonymously. Horace Together, these companies are part of a disruptive trade group of Swiss makers and manufacturers, which was formed in 2003 in the wake of the Swatch Group's announcement that it would stop supplying its competitors with ETA movements.
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THE+ and its partners spent seven years developing the brand's K1 signature. Until then, the flexible, contemporary and timeless design had only appeared in Horage watches. Today, Horage sells mechanical K1 watches starting at $2,260 and sells its KT tourbillons for under $7,000. Real-world pricing, which he defines as the opposite of the hyper-inflated prices of his competitors, is one of his principles. The original K1 group had a silicon escapement and 65-hour power reserve, and could be set in 18 different modes, with limited complications such as small seconds, grand day and power reserve.
This was the shortcut Bremont needed. K1 bought and promoted the rights to use the IP, but not exclusively (and for an undisclosed amount). The +, a friend I spoke to last week, says it will sell the IP to other companies, but only wants to do so if brands want to get the production IP as well. Bremont, he says, is the only company to date that has had trouble developing a manufacturing program, rather than buying movements, parts or drawings. He doesn't expect much follow-up, this is dangerous.
Under the guidance of Bellamy and his colleagues Martin Pennock (Director of Product Development) and Stuart Anderson (Working Engineer), Bremont added features that made the K1 more durable and accurate, including an additional stylus, a two-legged escapement bridge and an internal. . Bad wheel for good.
Nick and others have been keen to emphasize this latest development, as it elevates the ENG300's design significantly over ETA's workhorse machines. In public, they will say that the accuracy is within the tolerance of the chronometer, at -4/+ 6 seconds per day, but fortunately, they have a very respectable confidence of +/- 3 seconds per day, according to Omega's Master Chronometer. , and +/- 2 from both Rolex straps. All orders are also made in house. What Bremont did was try to test the Martin-Baker throwaway seat, which the ENG300 says it defeated and passed.
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It also added a high-end finish, pushing it beyond the K1's understated beauty and making the Bremont look more distinct. Both the tungsten rotor and the entire bridge have been redesigned to reflect The Wing's curved facade, and the movement has beautiful, tongue-in-cheek curved lines, which is what Nick Henley's lines mean, and why not. These details are expected to remain the same when the ENG300 hits the mainstream next year.
The factors behind the IP transfer are not easy to understand or quantify, but Bremont claims that 80 percent of the transfer is improved by weight and now has the IP of the ENG300. Perhaps to be fair, The+ says it sees the ENG300 as a separate version of the K1, not just an iteration. It claims to have 3,500 levels of information
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