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(wow) Words Of Wonders Level 2236 Answers – Add notes. This engine is direct fuel injection, not the usual port fuel injection in which the intake valve is sprayed with gasoline.
Barn….. the A/C compressor wire is stuck inside this pulley bracket and I have to remove this snake pulley.
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Compared to the humble mechanic Golf, the R.m is about 36,000 km or 22.5k miles. His carbon ink seems dry, mine is wet.
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It is an amazing PCV that makes most of the oils we eat disappear…
Has anyone painted the intake valve on the 3.5L NA M276? I have never seen such a picture on this site.
My experience is that turbocharged cars tend to push the PCV too much when the boost is down. I suspect it contributes to the grease on those valves.
It’s as dry as a layer of oil mist, as I’ve seen on the M276 3.5L, with no oil splashing when one lifts the engine cover away from the air intake’s many sinews.
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The intake manifold combo looks like 75cc of liquid oil coming out of the engine cover at the very front of this video.
I finished cleaning. I still had no intention of accepting holiness. Ordering CRC and STP cleaner + small brush etc.
He managed this on cylinder 1, for a total clearance of 10% more. The damn valve stem is too short… LOL
Valve seals well. When I wet the bore there are no leaks in the combustion chamber, good thing I have a new 180 degree borescope resolution.
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However, at high cylinder pressures, the carbon marks on the surface of the seal can be damaged. Will investigate later.
The M276.8 oil vapor separator is actually pretty good. An aftermarket oil catch can’t get anything as important as oil out of this engine.
Very short driving and parking positions, high humidity and about 25,000 km re-mixing in 36,000 km my driver and first * owner (0 to 10,000 km) is probably the reason.
There was also a time when the first owner tried to sell the car through a showroom where the engine oil was 457 days or 15 months old.
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Above when I was trying to see how long the engine computer module ECM was off. Meanwhile I can track the first owner’s oil changes which were part of a 3 year old MB Indonesia.
Recently, Shell V-Power Nitro+ is already available but only in Jakarta and nowhere else, so if I go to Bali, it will have to go back to Pertamax Turbo 98 RON, the state brand.
Great job on cleaning the valve. Can you summarize the correct cleaning process in a few words? What tools and chemicals did you use?
Point 2 is a crochet hook (one) I use as a handle for a very nice version of the Scotch Burt.
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Item 4 is a cell phone bar kit. I use it as a mini grater. Where the valve area doesn’t seal anything, I don’t hesitate to use metal on it.
I ordered these brushes and I had no idea they were so small in real life…lol! Steel brush, good for a brewer or coffee machine. Don’t try, the brush is too small and too soft.
01. Tweezers. One straight and one curved. Being able to use Scottish Bride Vault 2 with better targeting.
02. A humble mechanic like a simple brush. I will use a musical prelude. I ordered below.
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01. A locking tweezer arrived. Toothed, curved version. I cut a small scotch uk very fine pad and cleaned it slowly.
02. CRC – Reached and being checked. There is no significant spreading power on cheap STP. However, I prefer to use it while the engine is running and clean the manual valves.
04. I got a bamboo stick from fast food. It’s not as bad as a safe “push” rod.
Good results require patience, elbow grease and nimble *fingers (*not mine). Test 1 was yesterday. Try 2 today!
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I am short, 167 cm. So to get to cylinder 1 I have to lie on my stomach with the wheel guard on the left side.
This time I’m using the O-ring picker tool to run the Scott Bright pad, with half the hook circling in blue/green.
The mirror I got is double sided, made in Korea, brand is Osung. Very nice high resolution unit.
You sir have made over a dozen ranks in “legend status” to believe it. Impressive to say the least.
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I have owned several VW 2.0t engines over the past dozen years. Known for carbon. It is cleaned with a nut blaster. Basically a sandblaster, but with walnut chips instead, hard enough to remove carbon without damaging the metal. The average 2.0t in the Indian world is around $1K. I’m not sure how much the 212 would cost, maybe $1k plus a kidney
A third hand is required to insert the thread. Since I’m on top of the valve, it goes up to the valve stem seal. At least I tried
Back to the locking dental tweezers, but this time I’m reducing the size of the scotch burr so that it can better squeeze the tight spot.
A very small improvement between the 2.1 and 2.2 is the stubby carbon outer rim. I think 2.2 is about as far as I want to go.
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Yes, I have read a lot about walnuts, but in Indonesia, walnuts do not have pods and no one has pods.
At some point I was thinking of using a DIY pedal, raw rice…but at a higher pressure like 150 psi.
However, I never use ground rice/water or any kind of ‘bad’ ventriloquist effect, so manual fun for now.
@S-Prihadi Great work. How long do you think it will take to clean all 12 intake valves?
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I understand if someone wants to do it and all the tools + cleaners are ready. 1.5 hours per roll is enough.
Very little fuss. He barely had to remove his toothbrush. Carbon melted. The small brush that he uses, it is cut.
At first I thought I could enter the garage through the cracked door, but I soon realized I had the beautiful colors coming out of the water inlet in my mind.
Your engine is an M273 with port fuel injection, no wonder the intake valve is so clean when dirty.
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For a while I thought your M276 was direct injection like mine, and I was very happy that the BG cleaner could clean stubborn cooked carbon from the GDI valves so easily.
I can’t get the cleaner you used which is not sold in Indonesia. It is strong in my opinion, platinum.
A port fuel injection engine like the M273 always has its intake valve feed sprayed. This is because your carbon or oil traces are only in the intake tunnel, not the intake valve.
I don’t know, but I think I would only try to clean one valve if the heads are out of the engine and I might use a media blaster like a walnut shell or something and then each one before putting it together. Wash the thing well. .
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I figure if I put my E350 in “Sport” mode at least once a month and take it out for a half hour of fun freeway driving it will burn out at least a little. The local Mercedes Indy mechanics trusted me by telling me they don’t see carbonation issues on E350 M276 non-turbo cars and they have customers with 250k mile cars. I doubt that S-hill driving contributes much to the island, as there are very few trips on the island without some speed driving.
Toyota is said to use another injector to clean their intake valves. Spare parts are not a problem with reliable quality. ✌️
I try to tune in Italian once a week when I’m not using my car. Maximum mileage of only 27 km.
My average speed in Jakarta was 20 km/h or 12.5 MPH, and that’s 80% of those 36,000 km.
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When I drive Jakarta-Bali-Jakarta it only gets the right speed 50% of the time or when I get it on the track.
Compared to very early Audi/VW and BMW and other GDI engines, the MB GDI is said to be least affected by carbon nightmares.
No one would pay to remove an M276 3.0 turbo aftercooler just to be able to turn the crankshaft using a borescope through the spark plug hole to see an open valve inlet.
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