How To Make River Table Epoxy – As a woodworker, I have an ever-growing list of projects I want to build at some point in my career, and at the top of that list is a resin river table. While resin river tables have been made time and time again, one thing I’ve noticed is that most of these projects are made with industrial tools found in big box stores. So I decided to use hand tools and accessories that can be found at my local hardware store. Even cooler, to make this happen, I teamed up with my awesome friends at Bernzomatic and got to work!
The thing is, you don’t need a fully equipped industrial-sized workshop to make cool stuff. Actually, I originally planned to do this project with three power tools (circular saw, drill and sander), but I made a mistake while casting and ended up having to use a manual hand planer as well. However, if you prevent your resin from running under your plates, you can totally get away with three power tools for this project!
How To Make River Table Epoxy
I added black pigment to blacken the river. You can choose the pigment you want!
Epoxy Resin Tables Nj, River & Waterfall Styles
14. Next, I made sure my boards were level, then poured deep epoxy into the river gaps and cracks that needed filling. Follow the instructions on your resin container for how deep to pour at one time. I was a bit ambitious and my resin shrank when it hardened, so be careful!
15. After the resin was cast, I used a Bernzomatic B4500 large area crimping torch to remove as many air bubbles as possible from the resin. This is important because I don’t want to bubble cure the resin.
I then watched the molding and occasionally used my hobby and home Bernzomatic ST2200 Detail Torch to remove random air bubbles as it dried.
Diy Epoxy Resin River Table— Garage Workshop
16. Since my resin had shrunk a bit, I had to return to the project a day later and repeat steps 13-15 until I was happy with the depth of the pour.
17. After letting the resin cure according to the label on the product I used, I removed the mold from the tabletops.
18. At this point I noticed there was a large leak in the bottom of the plate so I used my power hand scraper to remove most of the resin.
How To Make An Epoxy Resin Table — Blacktail Studio
19. I then used a sander to sand the rest of the table. I started with 120 grit sandpaper and worked my way up to 400 grit before finishing the table.
I still can’t believe I made this table with tools I found at a local hardware store! It looks like it came from a legitimate woodworking shop!
I can’t wait to push the boundaries of my shop a bit and see what I can do! Until then, friends… Have fun crafting! Learn how to build a reverse river table with this live edge epoxy resin! I made this table from black metal epoxy resin with a molded walnut live edge, with a maple base!
Ft Epoxy Resin Ocean Table Epoxy Resin River Table
Before I could epoxy this plate I had to at least get it relatively flat. Since this plate was wider than my cutter, I could only flatten part of the plate and to do that I had to remove the guard above the cutter. If you try this technique, make sure you are very careful because if you’re not careful, this spinning head will mess you up in no time.
After removing the protective cover, I was able to start smoothing out part of the record, which took a few steps. This record had a very good turn and I was able to remove most of it in this grinding process without thinning the record too much.
As you can see here, merging part of the plate’s surface creates a ridge between the smoothed and unsmoothed parts. When I switched to the glider, the flattened area was now my reference surface.
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To keep this non-smooth area from interfering, I added a strip of MDF to the slide bed so that only that smoothed area was in contact with the MDF.
One thing I hadn’t noticed when I was sharpening, but what I notice now when I look at this photo is that the plate is slightly raised at the top, which was after that turn. To counter this, I had to apply pressure to the left side of the tile as it passed through the glider.
Anyway, after I flattened the other side of the board I was able to rotate it with my newly flattened face towards the glide bed and remove the edge leaving the joint.
River Tables You Can Buy In 2022
Now, if you don’t have a wood block or planer, you can just use a router here and get almost the same result.
Once the ledge was gone, I flipped the plate a few times to get an equal amount of material from each face, which I could then let cool a bit in my shop before pouring the epoxy in.
The next day I had to cut the tile to length, which I did with a hacksaw. I actually wanted this plate to fall diagonally across the center of the tabletop, and that was because of the corner cutout. I wanted to remove as little of this part as possible, because everyone knows that a straight figure is best, and this means cutting the end of the plate slightly at an angle.
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After I made the cut I was able to mark where to cut on the other end of the sheet. To make sure this cut was parallel to the first cut, I placed a 12 inch square on the edge of the cut and made sure my tape measure was in line with the square. I made some marks pointing to different places and then cut the other end to length.
Before continuing, I decided to try out a new tool I received in the mail, the Orion 950 Moisture Meter from Wagner Meters, the sponsor of this week’s video. I wanted to confirm that this slab was ready to use as it was air dried and about two inches thick.
Making sure the board’s moisture content was at a good level was especially important on this project, as epoxy is very unforgiving when it comes to wood movement. Fortunately, this record had been sitting in my air conditioner shop for about six months and was ready to go, as the counter told me.
Custom American Elm (or Similar) And Epoxy River Dining Table
Then I could build the shape. I actually used the shape I used on the head of the river before, here’s the link in case you missed it. Since this MDF was already taped with Tyvec tape, I had to cut it to size and assemble it, which made it easier.
For this I used a combination of a table saw, a miter saw and a miter saw, and then I was able to put the shape together.
Before mounting I had to put more Tyvek tape in a few places where there were screw holes from a previous project to keep the epoxy from seeping through those holes. The TotalBoat epoxy I used for this project has a very low viscosity, so this mold had to be absolutely watertight to prevent leaks.
How To Build A Live Edge Epoxy Resin
I used 1 ¼ inch screws to put the form together, making sure the holes are pre-drilled and countersunk, as MDF is very prone to splitting otherwise. I added screws to the bottom of the form about every eight inches, then added a screw in each corner to hold the sides in place.
I then sealed all seams with 100% silicone and used a foundation ball tool to get a really clean corner. This is a trick I got from my friend Mike at Modustrial Maker and it works great. Once installed, the excess silicone is immediately removed and the ball tool leaves a gap between the excess silicone and the silicone in the seam.
Since the plate is cut diagonally, I had to remove a corner from each end of the plate to fit the shape. To do this I first marked the line where the plate intersects the shape and then marked a square line on the face of the plate.
River Table Hacks: 4 Simple Steps For Success
I cut those places out with a saw and then I could fix the plate in shape. To do this I just used hot glue, which is strong enough to hold the plate
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