How To Build A Jointer Table – This build came to life because I didn’t have an electrical machine I had lying around and could use a connector. I should check the engine before I start…
I was inspired by many of the creations I’ve seen from YouTubers I follow in the past. Here’s one from Tarbin’s Orwar channel, similar to what I did:
How To Build A Jointer Table
The idea is to turn the planner 180 degrees and use it as a binder by adding a barrier. For safety reasons, a cover must be added over the blades. I didn’t get to that point with my network because the engine died during the build.
Build A Workbench / Outfeed Table
It’s also nice to have an adjustable fence and other adjustment options for precise cuts. If you’re looking for something like that, I recommend checking out Chris’ Get Hands Dirty video.
I’m not looking for plans/3D models for this setup because every machine is different. I started making scrap metal to hold the handle. Once the piece is holding, I can tighten it by screwing the pieces of wood together on both sides. This stability is achieved by making the middle part slightly narrower than the handle. Once I have these pieces, I can fill in the space left between the side strip.
After I got the base, I started working on the fence. It forms a 90 degree angle with the blade and holds your workpiece as it slides over the blades. For this piece I found a piece of the side of the machine and cut the shape out of plywood. This way I can slide the plywood over the machine to form a barrier and hold the machine further. Once I had it, I added a spacer to the bottom and top of the fence to get the perfect 90 degree angle. I added metal brackets to the fence to add support.
Making A Benchtop Jointer Out Of Plywood
I draw the side of the machine on the paper, so I cut a corresponding hole in the fence part
After this, it’s time for a test drive. At first it was good, passing the wood was not a problem, the result was beautiful. However, on the second tree I tried, the machine gave off a distinctive smell and corresponding falling sound. My engine died. I’m not sure which part failed, but I do know one thing; It doesn’t work anymore. So unfortunately I had to stop building here.
The end of this build is disappointing because I didn’t finish it. My machine decided it was time for a change, so I’ll save it for a desktop mount instead of trying another DIY. However, testing went well, so this build concept works! That’s why I decided to stop the video and write this article. Hope this helps someone.
Straight Talk On Jointer/planer Combo Machines
I love making things, inspiring people and helping others. The Cornerfield Shop combines everything I love in one place. I sold my old 6″ jet coupler a few years ago with the intention of replacing it with an 8″ bolt-on Grizzly at some point.
When I saw Matthias Wandel’s home run, I was intrigued. The idea of building a machine that would normally cost more than $2,500 was very impressive. I didn’t want to build an engine I wasn’t comfortable with, and Mathias’ engine wasn’t exactly what I was looking for.
While browsing the Sawmill Creek woodworking forum one day, I came across a member selling a 13″ Shelix head from a Delta 22-580 portable machine. At $200, I couldn’t pass it up. This purchase was the impetus for me to move forward with the project. with this
Easy Mobile Tool Cart
I bought the blueprints from Mathias and read them to see how everything was going. I wanted to change several things to get a machine that I would be happy with for a long time. Some changes I wanted to make:
Long tables The original model was about 48″ long, the same as the old 6″ jet. I wanted to increase the length of the boards to take advantage of the 13″ width. I was thinking about a 36″ input and 48″ output board, but in the end decided that both tables are 36″ long. There is room for a 7 meter long connection.
Covered base with dust collection. The original plans were an open floor with wheels. I wanted to add a built-in dust collector and a stable base to mount the larger motor I was going to use.
Jointer Vs. Planer: What’s The Difference?
Induction motor I really didn’t want to hear a screeching general purpose motor, so I bought a 2HP, TEFC, 3450 rpm motor on eBay for $200.
Strong and heavy. I wanted to upgrade most parts of the machine to increase strength and longevity. Most significant are the blade head bearing supports. In the original plans, the blade end bearings were supported with plywood, but I wanted to use aluminum.
With these goals in mind, I redesigned almost every part of the engine using Autodesk Fusion 360. Below is a representation of what I came up with. A few minor changes were made in manufacturing, but the Fusion was built very close to the 360 model.
Jet 230 Volt, Jjp 12 3 Hp 12 In. Industrial Woodworking Planer And Jointer Combo With Closed Stand 708475
I wanted a strong frame to support larger tables. Instead of construction lumber or laminated wood, I bought two 1-3/4″ x 7-1/4″ LVLs. I have never used LVL before and was surprised at how “stiff” they were. But I ran them through my washing machine and they washed well. But LVLs are very difficult to manufacture to a high quality finish. If I were to do it over again, I would make the frame out of baltic birch laminated plywood, probably 3 layers of 5/8 or 16mm.
The frame is very simple and consists of two side pieces with a crossbar at each end to join the sides. The ends were slotted to receive the crossbars, which were then glued and screwed into place. All screw holes were filled with epoxy microsphere filler.
To cut the corners on the bottom of the frame, I first cut them roughly with a band saw and then cleaned them up with the router bit.
Vevor Jointers Woodworking, 8inch Benchtop Jointer 9000rpm 1500w Heavy Duty Planer 6m/min 120mm Cutting Thickness Planing Width
I used the cutter slider on my table saw to cut the notches on the side of the table height adjustment screws.
These are actually the first parts made for this machine. In my opinion, the bearing supports are a weak point in Mathias’ design. I don’t want to risk them failing or wearing out and having to replace them. I wasn’t comfortable screwing it into the frame and wanted a method to remove the bearing blocks. I decided on aluminum bearing blocks that are bolted to the sides of the frame and bolted to the steel sheets that attach to the sides. Here’s a detailed overview of Fusion 360:
I ordered two blocks from ebay, 1″ thick and 3″x5″. I screwed the two holes into my CNC router table and machined them square. I also found the center hole for the bearing. Download the bearing block pdf.
Wood Combined Planer Thicknesser Minimax Fs 30c
I drilled four mounting holes in the drill with a drill. Next, cut the bevels of the table with a jig and turn the CNC to face the two outer mounting holes. About an hour of wet sanding gives them a “finished” look, and this is what I got:
For the mounting plates, I purchased a 1/2″ x 1-1/2″ steel bar from McMaster-Carr, cut into two 6″ lengths. Drilled and countersunk four 1/4-20 mounting screws. Drilled and countersunk. six hole to attach to the frame. I use 1 /4-20 x 3″ screws and epoxy mounting plates (and screws) on the rails. I used some oiled screws to hold them out of the tap holes while the epoxy cured.
After the epoxy set, I installed the blade end into the bearing blocks and bolted them to the frame races. This dictated the width of the frame and allowed the end pieces to be cut. Also note the hole in the corner where the Baltic Birch guide plate attaches against the dust collection dome.
Experience. Improve. Make.: Wooden Jointer Build
Before assembling the frame, I CNC machined a sleeve for the bearing brackets for the feed table lift screw.
I assembled the frame and turned it upside down to install the bottom frame rails, which are 3/4″ baltic birch. The rear rail (left) is angled and mounted together with the guide plate. The angled neck of the center rail supports the dust hood.
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