How To Make A Ball Chair – About: Furniture Hacker. Author of Guerrilla Furniture Design, out now. Find me on Twitter and Instagram @objectguerilla. More information about Holman
I made these chairs a few years ago when I was in school, and had access to a shop with good equipment and, most importantly, a laser cutter. The tennis ball you see is not glued in place; They are held in place by holes of different sizes in the top and bottom plates of plywood. The bottom hole is small so that the ball doesn’t bump when you sit on it. To create a contoured effect, the size of the upper and lower holes differ in a certain proportion. The balls can still spin freely and some of them may come out completely. That said, it’s much easier to create without contouring, but definitely less comfortable. I made a prototype that the ball is not contoured, and will include some pictures of that chair at the end of the instruction.
How To Make A Ball Chair
Unfortunately, I lost some construction photos, so, instead of a drawing, I tried to make the written part as detailed as possible.
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Everyone likes to ask me if I’m comfortable. yes The important thing here is that the ball is not stuck in place or screwed in some way so that they can flex and deform. With more than fifty of them distributed throughout the body, there is no pressure point; The slope on the seat pan, and the U-shape in the back is as close to the buttocks and back as possible, giving the spine and ribs some room to breathe.
The fact that they are not fixed in place also means that they contract and expand through their pores with changes in heat, humidity and altitude, as the air trapped in the ball changes volume.
1. Find an old chair frame. I have been using the popular Stacking Office Chair by Galaxy Furniture Company which has been in production for years. It is commonly found at yard sales, church basements, junkyards, etc. Size is specific to this frame – fits your frame, any size.
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2. Remove the curtain attached to the four metal straps that pull the frame sideways. Use a Dremel or angle grinder to cut the wires out of the frame, and then sand the joints. The frame should now only be two sides, held together only by the crossbars on the legs. The cushion line acts as a bracelet, so the frame will now lack rigidity.
3. Cut two pieces of 3/4″ MDF 16-1/4″ by 14-1/2. This will form the sub-structure under the plywood, and give the frame its rigidity back. A rectangular tube that forms The frame of this chair is 3/4″ thick, so the thickness for the base, you can also use plywood, but it is a little more difficult to drill, especially since it makes a big hole. .
4. 16-1/4â dimension is side, 14-1/2â dimension is front-back. Make a grid on the MDF every 3â front to back and 3-1/4â from the sides.
Ball Chair On Behance
5. Using a hole cutter and punch, drill 2-5/8″ diameter holes in each of the 25 grid squares on each piece of MDF. These holes are slightly larger than the maximum diameter of a new tennis ball (about 2 are larger. -1/2″).
6. Drill a 1/8″ diameter hole from the edge of the frame, 3-1/4″ down from the end of the chair frame. Drill another eight-inch hole below that. Be careful to make the holes as straight as possible, as if you were drilling two holes on each side of the hollow pipe. If the two holes don’t line up because you didn’t drill straight, it will be difficult to remove the screw. Repeat eight times, two holes on each end cushion side.
7. Insert the MDF into the MDF with a stainless steel, 1/8″ diameter metal screw washer through the holes and through the 1/4″ glass end of the frame. Now you should secure the two pieces with four screws in the approximate position of the old cushion. In the first picture, two pencil lines on the back where the screws should be in the center. In the second picture, you can see the screws more clearly from one side. The seat piece has a long, rectangular screw that needs to be drilled into the two pieces of frame.
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8. For this step, I used a Lasercam rapid prototyping machine, which uses a laser to cut sheets of flat material. This is where the picture breaks down, because you can’t actually picture a lasercam in practice. This step can be done by hand, but thin plywood leaves chips and marks on the cut edges – the laser leaves a clean, burnished edge that’s still perfectly clean. To avoid this, other sheet materials such as Masonite can be used. Cut four pieces of 1/4″ plywood or other suitable material 17-3/4″ across and 15″ front to back. This overlaps the front and back of each side cushion, and 3/4″ on each. overlap. side, which overlaps the steel frame.
9. Starting from the center instead of the sides, mark the same grid on the MDF, 3″ front to back and 3-1/4″ on the sides.
10. Number each piece from one to four. From front to back, the ball will slide down. Starting with one piece, which will be the bottom plate of the seat bag, use a hole cutter to cut holes with the following diameters, each centered at the appropriate intersection point on the drawn grid. The first row, side by side, should be 2-7/16″ in diameter. The next row, again side by side, should be 2-3/8″ in diameter. The following rows should be 2-5/16â, 2-1/4â, and 2-3/16â. If you want to save the time and hassle of the whole contouring business, just make two pieces where the holes are all 2-7/16″ and the other two pieces where the holes are all 2-3/8″.
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11. Piece 2 will be on top of the seat box. From front to back, the rows should be 2-3/8â, 2-7/16â, 2-1/2â, 2-9/16â, and 2-5/8â.
12. The third piece will be the back of the cushion. From the side, the ball forms a U-shaped contour. This time, instead of each row, each column of holes will have the same diameter. Using a hole cutter, drill a 2-3/16″ diameter column in the outer two rows. Inside the two rows, the holes should be 2-5/16″. Center column should be 2-7/16”.
13. The fourth piece is the rear cushion top plate. The two outer posts should be 2-5/8â in diameter. The two posts within them should be 2-1/2â in diameter. Center column should be 2-3/8″.
Tennis Ball Chair
The first picture shows a piece, as shown in the steps above, already screwed and glued to the substrate under the seat pan, and the ball sitting there. The second picture shows the same, plus two pieces, the top of the seat pan, glued and screwed to the top of the substrate, so the ball is locked in place – no glue or mechanical fasteners. The third number is attached in the second picture. You can just see the edge of the plywood on the back, showing the small holes made inside the ridge to collect the ball.
15. Drill twelve 1/8″ diameter holes from top to bottom through the chair frame, taking care to line them up as straight as possible. The holes should be between the rows of holes in the MDF, two Edge rows and middle row.
17. Take one piece, the bottom of the seat bag, and attach it to the bottom of the MDF seat piece with glue and steel. It should be aligned so that all the holes in the two pieces are centered on each other, leaving a 1/4″ MDF overhang on each side from front to back, and a 3/4″ overhang on the sides. -Two-sided, which overlaps the steel frame.
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19. Insert a tennis ball into all fifty holes. They are available on ebay used, quite cheaply. If you did everything correctly, all the balls should fit and none of them should be pressed.
20. Fit the second piece over the ball in the seat pan. Again, everything should fit snugly, wedge the ball between the two edges formed by the plywood. Glue and screw in place.
22. Now use a 12 1/8″ diameter machine screw with a washer to go through the hole drilled in step 15, passing both the frame and the plywood piece from top to bottom. Tighten the nut and washer to the frame. Tighten K. Use a Dremel or angle grinder to trim any excess screw length to the nut.
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23. Cut four strips of plywood that measure 3/4″ by 16-1/4″. Sand, stain and seal
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