How To Build A Foldable Table – All sports lovers! Boy, I have a cute and very useful DIY project for your game parties.
You know how there isn’t enough room on the coffee table in front of the TV during the game for all the game day snacks (because who wants to get up and go to the kitchen to fill it…oh no)? Yes, it will soon be the past.
How To Build A Foldable Table
This super stylish industrial folding table is unique, fits your decor perfectly and can be stored away when not in use.
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What is my point Perfect for all your entertainment needs! Plus, if you’re a super fan, you can tag it with your team’s colors or logo, like I did here with the Cleveland Cavaliers logo.
If you need to sand your sheet of 1/4 inch plywood, you can do it by hand with fine sandpaper. You should not cause the surface of the wood to chip.
Next, drill two pocket holes at each end of the four sides of the 1/2″x1″x15″ table and eight 1/2″x1″x24-1/8″ table storage brackets.
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The image above shows what one side of the folding table will look like, so be prepared to set it up twice.
Once the rectangular table base is assembled, place a thin sheet of 1/4-inch plywood inside the rectangle on a flat surface. Find a piece of 1/4-inch plywood around the 15-inch by 25-1/8-inch board, then remove the sheet of plywood.
The line you just drew shows the height you need to attach the 24-1/8″ desk storage bracket pieces. You need a 1/4″ gap between the bracket and the top so that you can put this 1/4″ plywood in place. later.
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Place the first two 24-1/8″ storage brackets on the sides of the table and secure with Kreg screws. The next two are one inch apart. Make sure each bracket piece is exactly 1/4 inch from the top…
Note: Yes, I only drilled one pocket hole for each bracket piece to save screws, but if you don’t have experience, that’s not the best idea, just leave two holes. Attachment is very difficult as you cannot use a regular single hole Kreg clamp.
After all 24-1/8″ brackets are attached, use wood glue on all brackets and slide the 1/4″ plywood sheet. Place something heavy on top while the glue dries. If you did everything right, the 1/4″ plywood should have enough indentation to create a nice (mostly) flat table.
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After both boards have dried overnight (or several hours according to the wood glue instructions), glue two 10-inch strips of wood to the inside of the board. These additional supports will be needed later for storage. Space them about 1 inch apart…watch and make sure it’s even.
Paint or stain both sides of the boards and let them dry completely. While the table is drying, it’s a good time to jump down and start on the legs for this tutorial.
After the stain dries, you will create retaining clips to hold the table legs between these brackets. Align the two slotted wiring harnesses back to back in the gaps.
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Space each strap 8 inches apart and tighten. FYI, you need to pre-drill the holes for this or you can split the wood.
Are you ready to work with these industrial table legs? To begin, cut the pipe to size according to the cut list below.
I used pipe instead of galvanized pipe because it is durable but very light. You don’t want your folding table to be so heavy that you need an electric lift to set it up for you. Say… follow the plans. 😀
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Now you will attach a 1/2″ cable connector to each end of each 10″ pipe. First, remove the washers from each connector (you don’t need them at all), then tighten the tube with the screw on the side.
Screw the 1/2-inch galvanized iron cap onto the four 10-inch pipes (with connectors). These are your feet on the ground. Add a 1/2″ galvanized tee to the top of this leg piece and screw the wire connector into it.
I love broken pieces like this. They can be stored under the table.
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Finally, hinge the two parts of the table and screw the floor edges to the four corners of the table. Go ahead and add your own twists too. Your table is ready to assemble!
To set up the folding table, you must first screw the top tube pieces to the floor edges. Next, screw on the lower section of the leg that holds this piece of galvanized road, and finally slide the center support tube.
You are ready to use your folding table! Note that if you don’t screw each piece with the same amount of thread on each side, your board may wobble a bit.
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Don’t forget the most important part: adding your team’s logo to the folding table. After all, you have to show that team spirit!
Well, now you’re ready for the big game! Ah… well, now you have a stylish industrial folding table perfect for the parties you want to host.
If you followed this tutorial and built these trays or a folding table, please share it with us! Tag me on Facebook or Instagram and share with the hashtag #dominatethepaint so Rust-Oleum and the Cavs can see how you did it!
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*This post is awesomely sponsored by Rust-Oleum in association with the Cleveland Cavaliers! All opinions, plans and ideas of the project are my own. Today we’re building a table that you can take camping, to the park or the beach, or even use in your backyard. You can add this table to your outdoor camping kit (our kit includes citronella candles and a wood stove).
Using a chainsaw or handsaw, cut the moldings to length and gently sand the cuts (“How to Use a Handsaw.”) If you’re using a handsaw, a miter box will help keep the cuts straight We used a double bull stop pattern. The smooth edges of the slats give the table a great look.
Cut the double nose cap into 17 pieces, each 20 3/4 inches long, and two pieces, each 17 3/4 inches long. Our metric hemlock molding is very smooth, but sanding the freshly cut ends and rough spots gives a nice finish.
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For the individual wood, we cut two 28 1/4″ pieces for the table rails and four 11″ pieces for the table legs. You will be cutting and/or drilling these leg pieces, so wait to sand them until the other cuts are done.
Rails: Cutting a bevel into the table rails is an easy way to elevate the look of the table, but it’s completely optional. Finally, both rails have a bevel at the end.
To do this, measure halfway (3/4″) from each end of the two rails and mark the spot. Mark the 45 degree line to show a small triangle and cut it if you have a bevel square and a slot of 45 degree bevel.
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Legs: Prepare four legs in the same way by cutting two corners at one end and making holes at the other end. (See the diagram to see what this looks like.)
The top of the legs attached to the table rails should be “dog ears” so they can swing freely. Cut the corners as described below: Mark the ends of the legs 1/2″ and 1″. Mark the 45 degree triangles and cut them out.
The other (bottom) end of each leg should be drilled for a dowel cross support and should have magnets to hold the legs in the folded position when the table is stored or carried.
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Find and measure the center of the leg and mark 1 1/2″ for the dowel cross support and 2 1/2″ for the magnets.
Drill a 5/8″ hole for the cross braces. (To reduce the risk of warping, drill the piece from one side until the drill bit goes through, then turn the board over and complete the hole on the other side..)
Drill a partially shallow hole in the leg. We drilled a 3/16″ deep by 5/16″ diameter hole where our magnets will be attached. The magnets will then be flush with the leg when snapped into place [Step 7].
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Although the hemlock molding is not split, especially if the screws or nails are not placed close to the edge, we decided to play it safe and drill holes in each slot first.
Template: Since drilling requires 19 bars
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