How To Wire A Fan And Light Switch

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How To Wire A Fan And Light Switch

The first 3-way switch box has ONE (line/power) 14-2 wire plus ground and two 14-3 wires plus ground wires.

Seperating Bathroom Light And Exhaust Fan On Single Switch

The 14-2 (line/power) black wire is tied to both the first and second 14-3 black wires, then the bottom black screw on the first 3-position switch.

The first 14-3 (say a knotted black/white 14-2 from line/power) leads to the ceiling fan/light junction box, where it is an additional black-black, white-white, red-red 14- 3 wire. Then the tubes for the fan/light, black to black, white to white, red to blue matching wires. An additional 14-3 cable from the ceiling fan J-box powers two more recessed can lights.

For the light switch, the black wire on the second 14-3 wire is connected to the first 14-3, the red wire is connected to the brass screw (passenger) of the first 3-position switch, and the white wire is shorted to nothing.

This second 14-3 wire runs to the other 3-way transmission (which only has a 14-3 wire) and the black wire to the bottom black screw and the red wire to the right side brass drive screw and the white wire to the left brass move screw.

Commercial Electric 3 Way Fan Light Switch 82355

This second 3-position switch does not operate the fan/light and lamps and works in conjunction with the first 3-position switch. Only the first switch will turn on the fan/light and the storage lamp at the same time.

So basically three wires to the fan and back to the switch, then another switch and three wires again. The question is, should the black wires from the first switch be connected this way? Why should the second 14-3 thread be cut separately?

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By clicking “Accept all cookies,” you agree that Stack Exchange may store cookies on your device and disclose information in accordance with our Cookie Policy. Dear Electrician: How do I add a bathroom fan to an existing bathroom to control the bathroom fan separately?

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Answer:  Depending on how the house was originally wired, adding a bathroom fan switch may mean only a few connections to an existing light switch. Then you can install a combination unit with two single pole switches on the belt. Note: Some text links below lead to compatible Amazon products. As an Amazon Associate, I earn on eligible purchases.

I’ve gotten this request a few times, and sometimes I’ve had to open up an existing wall switch and make some changes. I remove the wall plate, remove the screws holding the switch to the gearbox and pull the switch off the wall to access the wires. Sometimes the hardest part is getting the paint off the wall plate screws.

A second switch can be added without additional wiring if you have one wire inside the electrical switch and another separate wire going to the bathroom light and the bathroom fan. See the bathroom fan wiring diagram below.

The original wiring consisted of one wire bringing power to the transmission and two separate wires going to the fan and light. There may be other cables that supply power to other parts of the house. They are connected only to hot and neutral.

Jandorf 60305 Ceiling Fan And Light Switch 3 Way And 3 Wire (740265603058 1)

All white neutral wires are connected to a wire nut or other type of wire connector. The black wires going to the fan and light are connected to a black pigtail that connects to a single wall switch.

The black wire of the power cord is connected to the other connector of the switch. When the switch is turned on, power flows simultaneously to both the fan and the light.

Inside the wall switch electrical box, I separate the black wire that goes to the bathroom fan and the black wire that goes to the light. A combination switch like below is installed to replace the old single pole switch.

In the alternative scenario above, the hot wire in the junction box would be connected to one of the black screw terminals. Then the black wire going to the fan goes under one of the brass screws. The other black lamp wire goes under the second brass screw. Only the ground wire goes under the green screw.

Inovelli Fan + Light Switch At Ces2020

You can see the cable connections in the picture below. The two screws on the left side are heat-bonded, which is obvious because of the release tab between them. By disconnecting that little tab the unit can have two separate circuits.

The figure shows the cable connections on the back of a combination switch equipped with two single-pole switches

Due to the connection method of the original installer, it is not always possible to quickly replace the wires. In that case, the next option would be to install a new separate cable on the fan or light to allow for two separate switches.

The picture below shows the job where I replaced the entire bath fan assembly and installed a separate wall switch for the fan. The existing old bathroom fan was disconnected from the ceiling light next to it. So, a new cable was needed from the connection point to the new bathroom fan.

Have An Fan & Light Switch Issue

Replacing the fan assembly is considered a repair and does not require inspection by the city’s electrical inspector. New wires and a new junction box had to be inspected, but since it was a minor job, no major inspection was necessary. I applied for e-permit a few weeks before the start of work.

The current transmission was full of cables, so it was necessary to install an older two-speed transmission to meet code. Section 314.16 of the National Electric Code tells how to calculate the cubic inch capacity required for each conductor size.

I developed my own method of cutting access holes in the walls through which the wires were to be run. I cut the hole that holds my compass inward at a 45 degree angle with the angle of the blade. This makes repairs much easier. See pictures of pasting work at the end.

The current junction box had a total of six wires and a ground. The black and white pair of wires are the power supply that supplies power to the box. Another black and white pair supplied power from this junction box to the hall light junction box.

Lutron Fan & Light Dimmer Switch Wiring

The last pair of wires went to the ceiling light in the bathroom. I marked the black wire that went to the clamp as LOAD with red electrical tape.

Holes are cut in the ceiling and wall so that a new wire can be fished into the bathroom fan

I had to cut holes in the ceiling and wall to get the new cable to the current switch location. The ceiling had grids for the beams, which made it easier to superimpose the new cable.

The medicine cabinet, the closet behind this wall, and the door were all close together, making the wall very difficult. The holes at the top were cut with a saw at a 45 degree angle.

Way + Fan Switch + Power To Light

I used a keyhole or my compass saw to cut these holes. But since I bought my oscillating multi tool, I’ve been using it to cut access holes in drywall.

When I cut the access holes in the drywall, I had to drill a few holes with my half-inch Milwaukee angle drill. I had to drill through the top plate of the wall to get to the ceiling. Had to drill through some wall studs to get the new cable to the current switch location.

Above is the new Romex cable I installed next to the existing cable, which will be reused once the new switches are installed.

Before removing the old gearbox, I held the new old gearbox plastic against the wall and drew a line to cut the opening. It is easy to remove the old box with a large hole.

Smart Wifi Switch For Fan Light Compatible With Alexa Google Home Smart Life App Control

I’m starting to pull the wires to the new two speed bit by bit to the old labor transmission. Pushing the box closer to the wall, I continue to pull

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