How To Build A Wooden Throne – This week we found a great fireplace, but not at the perfect price. So we made our own $20 pine tree! Now we only have three things to do for the whole family. Put down your tools, it’s time to take a Maker break!
Living inland, we have many fires. We have straws that live from time to time, but they are not very pleasant. Sarah and I found this great outdoor fire pit chair while browsing Pinterest, but it was $350 and we thought we could do with 2×12 pine. But first I had to do the math.
How To Build A Wooden Throne
To help you figure out how it would go together, I built this little metal model, then jumped into Sketchup and figured it out. Now the outer leg is on the side. What I didn’t understand was that the angle formed naturally when the chair was put in place. This model actually has engraving so we could cut it with our HART circular saw with no problem.
Composting Toilet Urine Diverter
Plans in hand, I headed down to the shop, grabbed my 2×12s and started marking out the pieces. I used a few pieces of foam padding to hold the board and it didn’t matter if I cut it. It is recommended to keep some parts under the workbench.
Then I started cutting myself. Easy as pie. Now the seat, leg and back support are angled. 25 or 15 degrees. To mark them, I used a square to run the edge of the board around the cut until it was the degree I wanted. It’s pretty easy, but you want to be careful to be as precise as possible so that the pieces fit together in the end.
Then I cut myself more, and more, and more. The back support was a bit more difficult, but with a steady hand and a little patience I cut it easily.
King/queen Throne Chair High Back Red Cushion
I then decided to use pocket holes, which worked well for the seat but not so much for the back support. I’ll show you that in a minute. I secured the back with 3 long screws and it felt very secure.
I then measured the area of my floor joist and spread it out on the floor. I then marked the side pieces to make sure they fit the seat. Then I deleted them.
It was then that I realized the error of my ways. I didn’t have room to drill into the seat to attach the small back support. So I left it unassembled for now.
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I put everything into trying it and it was amazing. Aside from the damage to the rear mount, it was a little wobbly, but I had plans to fix it.
Once I knew everything was working, I stripped everything, rounded the edges, poured a ton, and trimmed the ends. I decided to use some leftover Thompson water sealer from a previous outdoor project, and it not only worked, but left this pine with a beautiful cedar-like red color.
Once it was dry, I attached it securely, this time securing the rear brace with a couple of screws from the outside. It wasn’t pretty, but it looked good. Then when it started snowing, he went to the pit and made a quick fire in a few pieces and tried the throne of the fire pit.
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It turned out better than I thought. It’s fun and brings you closer to the fire. Too little means less smoke in your face, which is great for hot dogs.
Now I only need 3. But instead of spending $350 to buy one, I can get another $20 board and make it myself. Be sure to share the Sketchup file in the comments if you want to make your own.
A big thank you to HART for sponsoring this event and reminding us that we can build. Night player. Halloween enthusiast, DIYer, always! My projects often combine pop culture, technology, and craft to create something fun, unique, and more about flaming_pele … More! »
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Do you want to be the king of the streets? Or how about a grass king? If so, you need a throne! We created Game of Thrones for a medieval Halloween party. It wasn’t HBO’s sword for sword, but it was a real success. It is made of soft material and takes a little time to put together. Definitely better than spending $30 to get an official copy!
Our main requirement was a throne that was large enough, heavy enough, and long enough for our party guests (some in chain mail) to sit on all evening.
We built it in three weeks (although someone could produce it in at least half that time) with the following tools.
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You can of course build the throne from scratch, but starting with a buildable chair will save you time. I’ve found that plastic Adirondack chairs are a good place to start, they’re cheap (under $15) and lightweight. The straight back panels are exactly the shape we’re looking for and provide a good base for long arms.
With the base chair selected, I was able to begin measuring the entire project for height, width, and depth. I decided to build the throne stage just a few steps away because I didn’t want anyone to see me sitting on the Iron Throne.
Don’t forget: if you don’t build in this area, it’s important to save large or modular items so you can access them later through the portal! In my case, the throne can be moved to the side of the deck, and the throne can *only* be pointed through the 36″ doorway.
Storytelling Throne Chair
The deck is made of 2×4 boards with a cross-section and additional bars for the rear seat legs (according to body weight). The legs are installed with 2×4’s and 2×2’s and 1/2″ plywood is glued to the top.
The Adirondack sticks out a lot on the back, so I added 2x4s to the back of the deck to raise the back legs of the chair. Also, since the chair is flexible, I added some braces to support the back.
I then used measurements to create some important shapes for the throne. Parameters are excellent building blocks because they are direct, powerful, and cheap; They cost about 70 cents at your local hardware store.
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I attached the gauge to the seat using short flat head screws so the screw points were away from the seat. I expanded the dimensions of the uprights, most of which will later become sword rings.
I extended the shape of the front legs and attached some studs to the bottom using 2x4s. I also started covering the sides of the seat (inside out) and the couple crossed over.
The back of the existing seat will be a downward facing sword. Cut out the pink foam, nailed the foam to the side of the fence and started making the sword. The thickness of the foam (1/2 inch) allows for a good wash on the seat. I simply cut the area of the sword strip to the width of the measurement.
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On both sides of the back of the chair, we will point the first swords upwards. Here is the same practice: break the cut foam and glue it to the front of the two dimensions.
I then repeated these steps to glue the foam to the back of the counter. The bottom of the fender is cut to fit behind the seat. There will be a small gap (gauge width) between the front and rear foam pieces, so a small strip of tape is attached to fill it. In the following pictures you can see that the sanding process has started to form the surface of the blade. At this point, even if there is a lot of sand in front, the electric palm helps a lot.
I also started adding pieces of foam for a protective barrier. For most of them I left out the back half of the guard because there would be another layer
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