How To Build A Vanity Desk – Measure, mark and cut the 2×2 legs and side rails to size. Drill 1-inch pocket holes in the ends of the side stretchers and attach them to the legs about 2 inches from the bottom with 2 1/2-inch pocket screws and wood glue. Measure, mark and cut the 1×6 sides lengthwise. Drill ¾-inch pocket holes in the ends of the 1×6 boards and attach them to the legs using 1 ¼-inch screws and wood glue.
Measure, mark and cut the 2×2 boards to size. Drill 1-inch pocket holes in the ends of these boards and frame as shown with 2-inch pocket screws and wood glue.
How To Build A Vanity Desk
Measure, mark and cut the 1×2 board to size. Drill ¾” pocket holes in the ends and secure as shown with 1” pocket screws and wood glue.
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Measure, mark and cut 1×2 drawer frames to size. Attach the edges with 1 ¼-inch nails and wood glue. Install the drawer latches according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Now it will be easier to install the sled before attaching the top.
Measure, mark and cut the plywood surface to size. Place the top over the carcass with a 1-inch overhang at the front and sides. The back edge should be smooth behind the toilet. Pre-drill pilot holes and secure the top with 2-inch wood screws pulled from the bottom of the 2×2 apron.
Measure, mark and cut to size drawer fronts, backs, sides and dividers. Punch 3/4 inch pocket holes in front and back. Measure the space where the drawer will go and design your dresser accordingly. Generally, standard drawer pulls require a 1/2 inch clearance on either side, so the dresser should be 1 inch narrower than the opening. Make a drawer box with 1-inch pocket screws and wood glue. Center the divider and secure it with wood glue and 1¼-inch branch nails. Measure, mark, and cut the bottom of the ¼-inch plywood to size. Attach the bottom of the drawer box with 1 ¼-inch nails and wood glue.
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Measure, mark and cut the drawer front to size. Optional: Use a router to create a dowel in the front to create a false drawer front. You can also use a circular saw or circular saw to do this. Slide the drawer boxes into place on the drawer guides. Install and secure the drawer front to the drawer box with 1-inch wood screws. Install the drawer knobs. I’ve tried to cover all bases with this one, keeping it in a small footprint. It can also serve as an office desk. There is a lot of detail in this design, so I have a set of plans that are more detailed, a cut list, and a wiring diagram for the American shops.
Sanding is usually one of the last things I do when building a project. The more I do, the more I realize that life would be easier if everything was sanded before assembly. Of course, I will continue sanding at the end of the project, but not as much.
We start with the bottom on a flat surface. Then connect the two sides. I used wood glue and a nail gun for assembly. On the sides and back, I can add the front and the inside of the rooms.
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I used wood putty to cover the nail heads and joints. The wood filter I use and made by DAP is pink when I use it and changes color so you know it’s dry.
I use a pocket hole jig for most shapes. I used a nail gun in places around the ends to keep the wood from splitting.
Once the framing was complete, I drilled a 1/4 inch hole for the electrical wire to pass through. The holes would be behind the glass.
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Insert the glass into the opening. Everything seems fine at this point. I placed two lamp holders in the required area. Then I follow the cycle. The speed field made it easy to find the station. I then drilled holes for the hole in the lamp holder to go through. Then round the edge to allow more space between the tree and the bulb.
The sink frame will be attached to the lid. This is what I consider a toilet door. I closed the link so it looks clean. After checking the squareness of the two parts, I fixed it with wood glue and a nail gun.
Apply glue to the back of the mirror frame. The holes (pre-drilled) for the electrical passage are on the back. Turn the frame upside down and secure it to the lid with a pocket screw or nail gun.
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I put a dot on the lamp holder for the wire to go through. This way the device can sit on the surface.
Electrical wires are closed from one device to another. Once one side is connected, the end is passed to the other side behind the glass for the next project. If all fixtures are wired, make sure the wire is long enough to pass through the junction box.
Adding the light overlay Now add the light overlay. I secured it in place with a few nails on each side.
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With all the electrical wires and parts and light switches, I needed a way to hide it all. So I made this simple cover to keep things clean.
Once everything was assembled, I filled all the nail heads with wood filler. Then sand with 220 grit sandpaper.
You can use a high density foam roller. They seem to provide an excellent surface finish. Of course, if you want the best results, spraying is the way to go.
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Since I like the raw look of the toilet lid, I just added a clear coat. I used three coats of polyacrylic for protection.
Install the legs, hinges and pull the handle. I put the handle on the front stop of the sink door.
Make a hole for the electrical wire to pass through. Then put the cover plate on to hide all the connections. I went into more detail with the plans; There is a wiring diagram showing the wiring (the diagram is for US stores only).
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This area has electricity and a dimmer switch. After everything was put together, before I sealed it all up, I checked to make sure everything was working. If you’re looking for a solution to your beauty woes, I have the solution. I love all things makeup, so I wanted to create something stylish and functional. Luckily I was able to create this fun DIY makeup table.
Even better news: I’ve teamed up with Build Something, Kreg’s project site, to bring you free plans to restore this unique vanity. If you are a little intimidated by this design, don’t worry, I’ve provided you with step-by-step instructions.
This post contains affiliate links, which means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase through these links at no cost to you. Click here to read all my details.
Diy Dressing Table
But first we need to identify this paint job. I am very proud to make this design. I’ve seen a few decorative toilets in my time, but none that look like this one. Below, I’m sharing all the details on how I pulled off this look, so read on for the full details.
At first I started making a decorative table top. In the process I used my Kreg Jig to make pocket holes so I could glue the boards together. At the top you will need to set the Kreg Jig to the 3/4″ setting and use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
After making the pocket holes, I attached a 1×6 backing board to the back of the table top with the pocket holes facing forward. The back board should be flush with the edge of the bottom board of the desk.
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After attaching the back 1x6s, I attached the two side 1x6s and the two center 1x6s using pocket hole screws.
I then cut the top panel to size but waited to secure it later so it would be easier to secure the drawer slides to the inside of the desk.
Once the piano was assembled, I started working on the base. I used a 2×2 to make the base of the desk. I used my Kreg Jig to make the pocket holes to connect the boards, but I basically had to set the jig to the 1 1/2 setting. I used 2 1/2 pocket hole screws to secure the boards together.
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I used two right angle clamps to hold the boards together so I could insert the pocket hole screws. These clamps are very useful when working alone.
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