How To Make A Table Saw Push Stick – Every few years I find myself needing a new table saw push bar. The last one I used was given to me by my father and was due for a replacement. I cleaned it up and had one thing in mind.
When my father made my old table, he made a push rod, he decided to put a little more time and effort than I did, because I feel that they are really unique. He spent time making sure all the lines were straight, the edges were comfortably rounded, and even applied a few finishing coats. I cut them down on a band saw, sanded them for 10 minutes and then put a single coat on them. Of course, you can choose how much effort you want to put into your finished product.
How To Make A Table Saw Push Stick
As for the design of the push stick, I like the simplicity and speed of making it. It is also a very good functional design. The forward angled handle allows downward pressure on the piece, while the protective fiber plate pushes the material forward and prevents kickbacks. I also like to make the dowels a little taller than necessary so I can cut 1/4 inch off the bottom a few times if it’s too chewy to run over the table saw steel. In the picture above you can see how my old one is chewed up.
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The first step in making a new push rod table saw is to draw a plan on the plywood. The old plywood I had was big enough to make two dowels. You noted my reference lines to remember which side the fiber slot was supposed to be on. Since I cut two sticks from the same piece of plywood, I had to make sure that the designs were mirrored so that the slots were cut from a part of the plywood.
The next step you will want to do is cut the dice to hold the plywood for the victim. I recommend doubling the 1/8″ fiber so it is 1/4″ thick. I also recommend that the pieces are 1 inch wide – which means your holes should be 1/2 inch deep.
I find the easiest way to get the table saw blade the right distance from the fence is to use an actual T-joint and fit it to size. As you can see in the picture below, start by placing the T button next to the blade and pushing against the end of the fence.
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Once the blade is set, pull it through the two pieces of plywood, and move the fence out 1/8 inch to make the second cut. Once you’ve gone through the table saw twice, use two pieces of hardwood to check that your groove is the right width.
If you look closely, you may notice my Ridge Carbide Super Blade table saw blade. I like this blade for cutting thin spots or grooves where a flat bottom is really important. It is worth the investment.
Once you have the dice cut, it’s time to glue the two pieces of plywood. In the first picture below, you can see that I used two pieces of fiberboard cut to 1 inch wide to keep the dads lined up while gluing. You can also see the wheat on my John Deere 42# tractor. I think the 84# weight should be enough to keep the pieces tight together while the glue dries.
Setting Up The Dewalt 10
After leaving the glue overnight (okay, maybe it was a week or two later – I had other things to do!!!) it was time to go to the bandsaw and do a quick cut. So I created both a spindle sander and a palm sander and ended up with what I called suitable use.
Now that you’ve finished cleaning the table saw spindle, it’s time to drill the hole for the threaded insert. The threaded insertion hole should be in the center of the back, at least 1 inch from bottom to top (higher the better). Use the drill provided for the threaded insert.
In my opinion, a quick coat of polyacrylic or polyacrylic is always enough to finish. Once you’re happy with it, screw on the threaded spacer, slide your protective fiberglass plate in (allowing it to extend about 1/4 inch past the bottom) and tighten the T-knot.
So, I Made A Silly Push Stick…
* This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive commissions if you choose to purchase through the links I provide (at no extra cost to you). As an Amazon employee, you earn on qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting the work on this site. I love my table saw. I’ve used it for many projects, I’ve used it to cut wood to size, and I even made a simple sled for you to cross. Part of Bigger Tools is to customize the way you like to do your work more efficiently and effectively. Now it’s time to upgrade my simple push ups to something more my style.
The push stick is designed to look like a short saw with a notch on the back to help push the material through the saw blade and a very old hand saw vintage handle. The new plywood “blade” on the push rod is a thin 6 mm for great long-range stability and narrow allows it to pass through the table saw even when the fence is close to the blade.
This project uses a table saw to widen the hole in the saw handle. Many of the skills for this project are covered in my free (and awesome) table saw class, which covers everything a beginner needs to know to gain the confidence to be a table saw pro.
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This simple build is a great reuse for an old tool and you can customize it however you want. The best part is that the blade is removable, which allows you to exchange it for a new one when you no longer use the push stick.
I found this great hand saw in the tool pile at a yard sale. The saw was in rough shape, had been in storage for years and had been neglected. I collect old tools like this because I like the way they look and the way they were made. And I think they are great candidates for revival.
This classic hand saw has latex machine screws that hold the blade to the handle. They are easy to remove and the handle is pulled from the blade. If you look closely, the holes at the top and bottom of the blade were not punched correctly during manufacture, and the holes were drilled through the edge of the blade. I love finding manufacturing errors like this in old tools because they were made by hand in a different era of production.
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The blade was about 1mm thick and would be widened to fit the new plywood insert.
I measured the thickness of the plywood insert and found that it is wider than the groove of my table saw. This means I have to do a double take and move the fence between cuts to get the width I need.
I took my time making a few passes on the saw, lifting the blade between passes. When you make lower cuts, you have more control over the piece to be cut and the possibility of making mistakes with a wrong pass is reduced.
A New Design For A Diy Push Stick • Ron Hazelton
To get between my fingers and the blade, I used a clip on the handle of the saw to give me something to hold on to when I stepped on the saw.
After making a couple of passes and raising the grain height to the final height, the saw was transferred to other steps and the grain height T was increased again to reach the necessary width for the plywood.
After pushing the handle through the opening of the table saw to extend the width, the width can be compared with the scrap plywood from which the stick is made.
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I used 6mm plywood for the push rod. I have room in my shop to make extra blades when the time comes, and it’s durable enough to withstand frequent use without bending.
The handle was slid onto the plywood and adjusted to the orientation I wanted to make a comfortable push stick.
I moved my handle behind the plywood scrap but left enough wood behind the handle for support. The location and orientation of your grip can vary depending on what works for you.
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Once the handle was in place, I used a pencil to sketch out a rough shape of what I wanted the blade of my push stick to look like. Of course I did
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