How To Make Covers For Arms Of Chairs

How To Make Covers For Arms Of Chairs – Learn how to make protective arm covers for your sofas and chairs. In this tutorial I share how to design and sew simple custom designs.

Sofa and chair armrests are a magnet for dirt and stains, even on upholstered furniture. It adds up so fast! Especially if you have little ones with sticky fingers and sweet pets who love to snuggle right on your arm.

How To Make Covers For Arms Of Chairs

You can remove your entire slide cover to wash it whenever the arms show dirt. But it’s a lot of work.

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I will show you how to make a cape arm cover (for light to moderate use) and a high arm cover (for heavy use). Both are simple, two-piece designs that can be adjusted to fit any type of furniture arm.

The spade arm cover is the most common design. The front is designed to match the contour of the top. Although this style only “covers” the arm of the couch, it offers plenty of protective coverage.

Because the hood style is a little loose fit, the interior hangs from the seat. However, the length can be adjusted. My cover is 13 inches front to back.

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If your couch or recliner gets light to moderate use, a cap cover is a great option and will last well.

But if your furniture gets a lot of movement and the armrests keep falling off, I would make a higher cover underneath. It will be in a much better place.

Cover the upper arm at the top. It has a longer front than the hooded style. As a result, the armrest is wider and hangs down on the sides. You can see that the arm is completely covered.

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To create maximum coverage, I extended the length of the cover to the back cushion. It is 17 inches long from front to back.

Because of the long sides, I could squeeze my long cover between the inner armrest and the seat cushion. The cushions on this couch fit snugly, which helps keep the arm covers in place.

No matter which arm wrap style you choose, the construction is the same. Here’s how to make your own custom arm guards.

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Cut a piece of sturdy, light-colored fabric two inches from the arm on all sides. Snap to hold it in place.

Trace with a pencil around the forehead along the edge of the weltcord. In this photo, I’m following the smoothly upholstered arm of my sofa.

Fold the fabric down to define the desired border. Here I’m making a slipcover style cover so I mark the hem so it sits right on top of the seat cushion.

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If you make a high armrest, remove the seat cushion so you can easily track the front armrest.

Depth: Measure from front to back along the top of the arm of your sofa or chair where you want the length of the arm cover to end. Add 2 inches to this measurement.

I like to place the arm piece on top of the rectangle. This makes it easier to guide the curved shape along the straight edge of the rectangle as I sew.

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Armrest covers do not require a cord. I think they fit better without it. If you want to add strap trim, sew it around the curve on the front arm pieces.

When you finish adding the front arm piece, you’ll notice a bit of rectangular fabric hanging down the arm on one side. This is normal. Just mark a straight line from front to back and cut off the excess.

Next, overlock or zigzag around the arm seam allowance and do the same on all edges of the border.

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Fold and press all edges 3/4 inch. Clip or pin in place and sew around 1/2 inch.

As you can see, I made my arm covers to fit the rolled arm sofa. But this custom two-piece design works well for many types of furniture guns – rolled arms, rail and tuxedo guns, cover guns, etc.

Simply follow the shape of the front arm of your furniture and create a pattern. Next, determine the width and depth of the rectangular piece.

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Oh, and one last tip – if you use a 7 or 8 oz. I would quilt them to add weight and texture to a lightweight fabric for your arm cover. Otherwise, they will be too thin and easily fall off the arm with use. There’s no need to call an upholsterer if you want to change the color or pattern on your chairs or dining chairs from time to time. Here’s how to make your own pattern for making simple chair covers.

Do you have furniture in your home that you love the most, but it needs a little updating? I do this because I scavenge garage sales, estate sales, and generally anything with some history (and a low price tag) attached to it.

I found these sweet little chairs off Craigslist a few years ago, and when I sat in one I instantly fell in love. These are probably the most comfortable chairs I have ever owned. I also loved their pretty rose pattern, even though it didn’t match any of my decor.

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Fast forward a few years, and while I still love the original upholstery of the chairs, I can no longer deny that they need a bit of updating to match the rest of my living room. is

(This is mainly because my best friend and eagle-eyed designer, Jana, tells me this when she comes over.)

I reluctantly agreed and we put our incompetent heads together and devised a plan. I didn’t want to just start attaching new fabric to the chairs (my usual M.O. involves staples or hot glue) because I want to reuse them in their original condition someday.

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So I decided to make simple covers for them, which turned out to be easier than I expected.

~ This post contains affiliate links. When you make a purchase, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. ~

This project turned out to be relatively easy since my chairs are a classic L shape. The L shape also works well for Parsons style dining chairs. If you have another style you’re trying to update, you can still use these steps, but the measurements may not be straightforward.

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Also, if you’re looking for custom covers that you don’t have to make yourself, check out this shop: August Blues (This is not an affiliate link, I just love their stuff.)

Keep in mind that if your fabric has a large pattern (called a “repeat” in design parlance), you’ll want to match the lines as closely as possible, so you’ll need to buy extra fabric to move your pattern around. may be required.

I measure from under the back of the chair, up and around and all the way to the front of the bottom. Then I measured each side for the “L” pieces. Then I had to figure out how to fit all those pieces onto one piece of fabric.

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Then you need to choose the fabric. You can use almost anything, but I chose a heavy upholstery fabric because I wanted them to keep their shape and keep wear from the kids and the dog. Not to mention my unruly guests.

When you have your fabric, take a spool of thread to match. (If using upholstery fabric, use heavier duty.)

Next, create your template. It’s not technical or scary. This is just one way to get your measurements on your fabric. Mark your measurements on the back of the fabric with a pencil or chalk.

Sakarias Armchair, Kvillsfors

Be sure to create lines and designs in your fabric that you want to meet at the seams. My fabric only has a subtle pattern, which is why I didn’t choose it, but it made it so much easier to work with. grade!

Remember to leave a few inches under the chair so you can turn the entire piece.

Now cut your pieces. When you cut out your pattern, be sure to leave an inch around each edge for seam allowance. (This is the edge that ends on the inside and prevents the seams from opening.)

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Now place your fabric upside down on your chair. Use straight pins to pin the fabric pieces together around the edges of the chair. Place your pins as close to the seat as possible so you get a nice tight fit, and use lots of pins (about every few inches).

Use your sewing machine to sew the entire line you made with your pins, pulling out each pin as you go. Just don’t worry about the bottom end.

Now try to fit the cover on the top right side of your seat. If there are areas that look too tight or too loose, you should redo them. It sounds annoying, but it’s actually not that bad.

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Once your wrap fits properly, you’ll want a full “skirt” underneath. Just fold the fabric twice inwards and

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