How To Build A Carpet Ball Table

How To Build A Carpet Ball Table – Late last year, the youth pastor at my church asked me to prepare a chalkboard for the youth area. I had never heard of it, so I looked it up on the Internet. online. Turns out there is a National Table Tennis Association, and the game is more popular than I imagined. Churches, camps, boys and other recreational facilities seem to use carpet tables to entertain children, teenagers and adults. It is a very enjoyable game. basic? This is similar to shuffleboard or billiards where each player places 6 pool balls in any order on the side of the table at arm’s length. The cue ball is then used to knock the opponent’s ball down the drain. The first to throw all the balls into the opponent’s drain wins! Sounds fun, huh? For more information about the game itself here is a link to bola permaidani.org.

After a bit of research, I designed my own table with a bit of a Christian spin. The church is also looking for lockers or special places to store school bags, coats, etc. on the premises of the youth church. My thoughts? To install a carpet ball table above the cells and play the violin kill two birds with one stone.

How To Build A Carpet Ball Table

I bought two birch-colored Ikea Expedit cubicles and put them together in the garage. Each costs about $100. Bad news? I think it will probably be discontinued, although you can find a similar product or buy one on eBay.

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Once built, I lay it horizontally away from the structure. Build a mountain. Please note that most carpet tables have 2×4 or other legs. I’ve seen it done at horse shops, look for different bases to see if you want something different.

2 2×12 by 12 feet (I cut these yards, making sure they were as straight as possible!)

2 pieces of plywood cut to 66.5″ long x 22″ wide x 3/4″ thick (I took the plywood and cut it up because it’s a huge pain using my own table saw)

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Then add your two 1x6s 22″ long – this is your water pipe, it’s at the bottom of the aisle and flush to the end, it’s attached with wood glue and screws 2 1/2 inches from the outside. Then clamp. I do it on both sides. and leave to dry.

Next time for your 2×4, lots of them. They will be cut into 22 inch lengths. I placed two of them perpendicular to the edge of the 1×6 drain to make sure they were square and attached with glue and 2 1/2 inch countersunk screws. Then from each end I put a 2×4 FLAT but horizontally to the top of a 2×4 attached to a 1×6 drain.

Note: There is a two inch jack under the 2×4. This is because I don’t want the top to be directly on top of the cups, I need the top to “shoot” over the buckets.

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Then find the centerline where the gutter starts and add a 2×4 laying flat at 66.5 inches and fasten. This is done so that the plywood added later has contact and fastening points.

Then take the top and place it on top of the two storage compartments pushed together. Two adults are required for this.

**I don’t have a picture of this step, but basically you’ll get 2 2x12s attached to the end tube, two pieces of 2×4 laying flat 6 inches from the end, and one 2×4 laying flat in the center of the lens.

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Then measure from the center 6 inches apart and fasten each support from the outside with glue and screws. I used speed dial and checked

I then added a 2×4 that was 22 inches long every 6 inches roughly below the line using my speed squares attached with wood glue and screws on the outside. Note: It must be horizontal or after adding plywood. Prizes will not be matched!!! Check with a piece of wood each time you add another 2×4. See diagram below.

Next step… Plywood. You will have two pieces of plywood that are 66.5 inches long by 22 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick. Since cutting/tearing yourself is painful, save yourself the energy and annoyance and make this recorder perfect. First, I added a drop of wood glue to the first 2×4 set (doing it one side at a time). . Add to route. Since I built some of the table in the winter and some in the spring, the size of the 2×12 obviously changed a bit, so I had to wedge it into the plywood. Try to fit the center seam as tight as possible.

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I then had my 7 year old stand and squat (in his winter boots) on the plywood to keep it level and comfortable.

I then made sure the plywood was perfectly level and used my impact driver to tighten the top with 1.5 inch screws all the way through the plywood.

In the next step, add ends (1x10x22 inches long) to the path. It fits between 2×12 ends with glue and screws. Don’t worry about the pencil marks or the appearance of the board, they will be covered by the carpet.

Building A Carpetball Table!

Then drill holes for the table to be attached to the base(s). I set the tabletop perfectly on the base and drilled 6 holes from the bottom of the storage compartments. Get into the 2×4 in 6 different locations. They don’t have to be fully deployed, just fasten securely. I then used a socket wrench to screw in the washers and hex bolts by hand.

Then complete the drawing. I know this needs to be done correctly before installing the carpet. No photo, but… I filled all the holes with wood filler and sanded the 2×12 lens inside and out with a belt sander. First 120 grit, then 220 grit. This is tiresome due to the size of the table. I literally broke the strap during this step so I had to buy a new one. 🙁

Here I could have painted or painted the wood, but I chose to leave the grain and natural color to match the base. Then I applied two layers of polyacrylic in the color of light satin. No pollution, smooth enough to use.

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Then comes the boring part… carpet installation. I accepted my boyfriend and his father after a failed attempt. On my part to install it completely.

They took out the carpet and put it on the table to cut off the excess. They then fit the carpet and cut with a carpet knife along the edge of the wood to ensure a straight cut. They then laid the carpet down to cut the withered fibers with a knife.

They then took a rug that was attached at the same level as the rug around the table and fitted the rug well.

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Finally… we smear the glue again in the drain and on both sides. I then folded the end flap and began to tighten with a scraper to ensure the shape of the drain. We let the glue dry overnight to ensure the best shape.

After the glue dried…I screwed the lid on with a 3/4 inch screw to sand down the ends of the rug so it wouldn’t delaminate. The end of the lens is where the player rests on the table, keeping the rug securely attached. Please note that the rug is also glued and screwed under the table to eliminate jagged edges.

After 2 days of playing on the table, I removed the hexagonal door and divided the table into three parts – upper and lower. I marked the left and right sides of the table so it’s easy to assemble. The church removal crew picked him up and took him to a youth stop. There I disassembled the table and refitted the hex bolts.

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Hope you like this project! This project is not for the weak and impatient. The best part is that hundreds of students will love this game. Carpetball is currently the coolest game in the service of youth! You should get one for your youth if you can!

Bring the material to where you plan to use the Carpet-Ball. You won’t be lucky enough to move one of them after it’s built. Unless you put it on wheels!

Fasten 10 feet of 4×4 to the side of the plywood. Use 24 2-inch wood screws

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Now grab the 4×4 legs

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